HELP: Need to block radiator coolant port (PIC)
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HELP: Need to block radiator coolant port (PIC) Hey guys, I switched from an LS1 radiator to an LT1 radiator and the only problem I've had over time is the rubber "HELP! Bypass Cap" I used to block the heater hose port on the LT1 radiator is cracking and won't last too long. What can I do to block off the extra heater hose port? SLP capped it off using a vinyl cap (where the heck can I get vinyl caps?) and supposedly epoxy under them (I think I found the proper epoxy but I'm not sure). NO I DO NOT NEED A RADIATOR CAP... I KNOW WHERE TO GET THOSE.
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One possible option:
1. Get some fiberglas mesh/cloth.
2. Get some Hysol 9303 epoxy (this spec is viscous enough it will stay/adhear on a vertical surface/gravity resistant), alternate is Hysol 9313 (less viscous/will flow into contours easily. I'd probably use the 9309.
3. Cut a piece of the FG long enough to wrap around the end of the tube and have it at least extend a couple of inches down the sides of the tube back towards the radiator.
Clean the radiator tube well with mineral spirits or some other chemical to remove all dirt and oils, but also won't leave residual goo upon evaporation.
4. Mix epoxy and fully impregnate FG cloth. *Pot life of the epoxy will only be 20 min or so if ambient temp is in the 90's like it is here in the summer.
5. Wrap cloth around end of tube and secure with string or zip ties, let cure for 24 hrs.
If you can find a replacement "cap", put the cap on and then apply as outlined above.
Hysol is an extremly durable epoxy and this repair will probably outlast the life of the radiator.
(If I rember correctly: This type of Hysol will withstand something like 4400 hrs of jet fuel saturation without any occurance of structural failure.) Basically it will last as long or longer than the (assembly) seams of the parent radiator.
Anyway, this is one avenue of approach for mitigation.
1. Get some fiberglas mesh/cloth.
2. Get some Hysol 9303 epoxy (this spec is viscous enough it will stay/adhear on a vertical surface/gravity resistant), alternate is Hysol 9313 (less viscous/will flow into contours easily. I'd probably use the 9309.
3. Cut a piece of the FG long enough to wrap around the end of the tube and have it at least extend a couple of inches down the sides of the tube back towards the radiator.
Clean the radiator tube well with mineral spirits or some other chemical to remove all dirt and oils, but also won't leave residual goo upon evaporation.
4. Mix epoxy and fully impregnate FG cloth. *Pot life of the epoxy will only be 20 min or so if ambient temp is in the 90's like it is here in the summer.
5. Wrap cloth around end of tube and secure with string or zip ties, let cure for 24 hrs.
If you can find a replacement "cap", put the cap on and then apply as outlined above.
Hysol is an extremly durable epoxy and this repair will probably outlast the life of the radiator.
(If I rember correctly: This type of Hysol will withstand something like 4400 hrs of jet fuel saturation without any occurance of structural failure.) Basically it will last as long or longer than the (assembly) seams of the parent radiator.
Anyway, this is one avenue of approach for mitigation.
Last edited by Weezzer; Jul 3, 2010 at 10:58 PM.
Yes, cheaper and easier.....it'll cost you about $3.00 and you'll have a much better/faster way to flush your radiator when you need to do it. I added a 6-inch piece of heater hose, a plastic threaded plug in the end, and two camps. When I want to flush, I just loosen that end clamp and twist the plastic plug out. It gushes out big time, unlike that cheesy petcock drain.
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Last edited by LS6427; Jul 4, 2010 at 02:09 AM.
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From: under a JEGS hat
Yes, cheaper and easier.....it'll cost you about $3.00 and you'll have a much better/faster way to flush your radiator when you need to do it. I added a 6-inch piece of heater hose, a plastic threaded plug in the end, and two camps. When I want to flush, I just loosen that end clamp and twist the plastic plug out. It gushes out big time, unlike that cheesy petcock drain.
.
.
What I did for the LT1 swap was
- cut some plastic "coins" that are tight in the bore,
push them down to bottom (but not through)
- "paint" the bottom and walls of the port with JB-weld
and let it set up some. Might scuff the bore for more
"tooth".
- fill the bore once the first coat is firm enough to not
let any weep down into the tanks.
- let it cure for a couple of days.
I cut down the nipples some since they were going to be
unused.
I was working with a virgin piece. If yours is already
contaminated with coolant, take the time to get it real
clean (soap & water, then acetone, then scuff) just
to be sure the JB sticks.
- cut some plastic "coins" that are tight in the bore,
push them down to bottom (but not through)
- "paint" the bottom and walls of the port with JB-weld
and let it set up some. Might scuff the bore for more
"tooth".
- fill the bore once the first coat is firm enough to not
let any weep down into the tanks.
- let it cure for a couple of days.
I cut down the nipples some since they were going to be
unused.
I was working with a virgin piece. If yours is already
contaminated with coolant, take the time to get it real
clean (soap & water, then acetone, then scuff) just
to be sure the JB sticks.
