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Identify LQ4 smog stuff for removal/block-off, whatever

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Old 07-07-2010, 11:13 PM
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Default Identify LQ4 smog stuff for removal/block-off, whatever

I plan to run in open loop SD mode -- but I'm going to wrap up the 02 sensor wires, and keep them handy in case I decide I need them...

At any rate -- what are these things in the pictures below, do they need to be removed, and how?

One that's not pictured is the coolant hose running through the throttle body -- can I just remove the rubber hose, and cap that off at the air bleed pipe? My radiator only has one place for a small hose, and I plan to continue using it for the overflow (unless I need it for the throttle body coolant hose).

Besides the things I've pictured, are there any other emissions things I need to address???

Thanks
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Old 07-08-2010, 06:25 AM
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Your seriously going to run in open loop? Seems crazy........I cant even think a a single reason to do this????. If your not going boosted, you should run a MAF too.

1. EVAP solenoid - No need to remove it, all it does is run a vent line from your gas tan to the throttle body. When pressure in your tank gets to high it simply dumps the excess fuel vapors through the motor quickly. If you remove this you'll have to add it back somewhere else, but with a charcoal filter too, if you dont the vehicle will reak of raw gasoline.

2. PCV line - Again, you need this, leave it be.

3. EGR - This is where EGR used to connect, you don't have it and its already blocked, leave it alone.

4. Fuel Pressure regulator reference line - Unless you plan on adding a custom fuel system you need this. Taking it off would screw up the way your truck ran.

There really isn't anything you need to do. Emissions are fairly light/ non intrusive on newer LS engines....
Old 07-08-2010, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by SweetS10V8
Your seriously going to run in open loop? Seems crazy........I cant even think a a single reason to do this????. If your not going boosted, you should run a MAF too.
O2 sensors and a MAF sensor would run me about $300 or so. I just want to get it up and running for now with my wideband and open loop mode.

1. EVAP solenoid - No need to remove it, all it does is run a vent line from your gas tan to the throttle body. When pressure in your tank gets to high it simply dumps the excess fuel vapors through the motor quickly. If you remove this you'll have to add it back somewhere else, but with a charcoal filter too, if you dont the vehicle will reak of raw gasoline.
I removed the EVAP wires from my PCM (based on pin-outs at lt1swap.com) and besides that, my in-cab gas tank doesn't have anywhere for this line to go. Does that change things? Maybe I should add the EVAP back in?

2. PCV line - Again, you need this, leave it be.
I was thinking it was PCV related, but the PCV valve and hose is on the other side of the engine. Is this hose on the passenger side somehow related?
3. EGR - This is where EGR used to connect, you don't have it and its already blocked, leave it alone.
Yeah, it looked like it wasn't being used, but wanted to double check.
4. Fuel Pressure regulator reference line - Unless you plan on adding a custom fuel system you need this. Taking it off would screw up the way your truck ran.
I am going to run a vette fuel filter with built-in regulator. I am capping the return line on the fuel rail -- is it still OK to just leave that line where it is with my setup?

Do you know about the throttle body coolant line?

Thanks!
Old 07-08-2010, 07:57 AM
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I found a pair of front O2 sensors for $70. So, at least I'll have them now
Old 07-09-2010, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim_PA
O2 sensors and a MAF sensor would run me about $300 or so. I just want to get it up and running for now with my wideband and open loop mode.


I removed the EVAP wires from my PCM (based on pin-outs at lt1swap.com) and besides that, my in-cab gas tank doesn't have anywhere for this line to go. Does that change things? Maybe I should add the EVAP back in?


I was thinking it was PCV related, but the PCV valve and hose is on the other side of the engine. Is this hose on the passenger side somehow related?

Yeah, it looked like it wasn't being used, but wanted to double check.

I am going to run a vette fuel filter with built-in regulator. I am capping the return line on the fuel rail -- is it still OK to just leave that line where it is with my setup?

Do you know about the throttle body coolant line?

Thanks!
Good move on the oxygen sensors, it doesn't matter what they cost, you need them.

If you pump has nor provisions for evap, they do make vented gas caps.

That is the fresh/clean air side of the PCV. Air come through the air intake and goes through this line instead of the throttle body and into the passenger side valve cover. The dirty side is the PCV on the drivers side rear valve cover and it goes back into nipple at the top/center of the manifold.

If your doing the vette regulator you need different rails that are 05+ that are setup to be return-less. Some 04s fuel rails will work too, 2004 was a changeover years so some truck fuel rails were return style and some were return-less..

You also need to change your tune if your using the OEM PCM for that truck because vacuum referenced pressure regulated have all the vales for injector flow set the same, basically its a straight line. But when you go to return-less it needs to have a slope instead, with the correct data from the injector.
Old 07-09-2010, 07:04 AM
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I was hoping I could just cap the return and use the factory rails, but I guess it's not that simple.

I figured that one day, I'd be switching to an aftermarket intake, so I might as well plumb the fuel system with an external regulator from the start, rather than re-doing everything later.

I have HP tuners and a wideband, so I'm pretty well set up to change just about everything I need to.

Thank you! -
Old 07-09-2010, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim_PA
I was hoping I could just cap the return and use the factory rails, but I guess it's not that simple.

I figured that one day, I'd be switching to an aftermarket intake, so I might as well plumb the fuel system with an external regulator from the start, rather than re-doing everything later.

I have HP tuners and a wideband, so I'm pretty well set up to change just about everything I need to.

Thank you! -
You could do that, but you would have to remove and seal the current pressure regulator.

The FAST LSXRT truck intake made 20rwhp over a TrailBlazer SS style on a stock 5.3L in the truck forums recently.

I was going to suggest HPTuners also, Ive been using it for while and still earning myself, but have purchased a lot of "learn to tune" books to help.



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