FAST 92 questions
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FAST 92 questions so i am going to be buying a FAST 92 pretty soon. im just trying to figure out what else i will be needing. i just read that i am going to be needing new valley cover bolts. what about intake manifold bolts? could i use the stock ones or do i need ones from FAST? also my ls6 coolant pipes. could i use those or do i need special ones? also is there anything else i will need to change to make this a direct swap? and does anyone sell 92s anymore? or just 102s
The intake manifold should come with its own bolts for the top, if it doesn't you would need to get some from FAST. Your LS6 coolant pipes will work no problem, you may need to bend them a little to get it to fit correctly. I do not know if a 102mm tb will fit on the 92mm intake. We have never tried that, I would think there would be some fitment issues. We still have a couple 92mm tb's left from before if you need one, just give us a call.
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From: Braselton,Ga
I used my original intake bolts because they don't rust
and I havn't had any problems with using them mine is a FAST 90,,but I don't think that matters.
Also if you have the LS6 rear coolant block off pieces and the front piece you'll be fine using those.
and I havn't had any problems with using them mine is a FAST 90,,but I don't think that matters.Also if you have the LS6 rear coolant block off pieces and the front piece you'll be fine using those.
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The intake manifold should come with its own bolts for the top, if it doesn't you would need to get some from FAST. Your LS6 coolant pipes will work no problem, you may need to bend them a little to get it to fit correctly. I do not know if a 102mm tb will fit on the 92mm intake. We have never tried that, I would think there would be some fitment issues. We still have a couple 92mm tb's left from before if you need one, just give us a call.
Yea the 90 and 92 are obsolete but either way getting stainless hardware and a proper hold down for the MAP sensor were major improvements over my old 90/90 set up.
I most certainly agree the front coolant line does need to be bent down (soft, plastic, dead-blow hammer comes to mind). I fyou buy a kit new you get button head screws to clear the bottom in the intake valley cover area.
In general swap over all your stuff, Disassemble the LS6 once its out of the car. Use Tape (duct, electric, masking, painting) to hold up the rear half of the intake bolts. Disconnect the vaccume hose from the brake booster and route around the back to avoid breaking the oil pressure sensor. Disconnect the MAP harness before final pull. Use only Plastic fuel line disconnect too. IF you break the lock it is 60-80 for a new fuel line from the Dealer.
I most certainly agree the front coolant line does need to be bent down (soft, plastic, dead-blow hammer comes to mind). I fyou buy a kit new you get button head screws to clear the bottom in the intake valley cover area.
In general swap over all your stuff, Disassemble the LS6 once its out of the car. Use Tape (duct, electric, masking, painting) to hold up the rear half of the intake bolts. Disconnect the vaccume hose from the brake booster and route around the back to avoid breaking the oil pressure sensor. Disconnect the MAP harness before final pull. Use only Plastic fuel line disconnect too. IF you break the lock it is 60-80 for a new fuel line from the Dealer.
Last edited by BlackScreaminMachine; Sep 29, 2010 at 09:33 AM.
http://www.speedinc.com/catagory.cfm?catagory=Induction
Scroll down you'll see it.. but just because they have it listed doesn't mean it's in stock, or maybe they just forgot about the listing.
You can find one used on here with little to no miles for a much better deal. I bought mine which was brand new pretty much, only 50 miles, and it was already ported, for $700 shipped. The shipping was about $40, so the intake itself was around $660. There are better deals to be had even still if you search/wait long enough.
Scroll down you'll see it.. but just because they have it listed doesn't mean it's in stock, or maybe they just forgot about the listing.
You can find one used on here with little to no miles for a much better deal. I bought mine which was brand new pretty much, only 50 miles, and it was already ported, for $700 shipped. The shipping was about $40, so the intake itself was around $660. There are better deals to be had even still if you search/wait long enough.
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Yea the 90 and 92 are obsolete but either way getting stainless hardware and a proper hold down for the MAF sensor were major improvements over my old 90/90 set up.
I most certainly agree the front coolant line does need to be bent down (soft, plastic, dead-blow hammer comes to mind). I fyou buy a kit new you get button head screws to clear the bottom in the intake valley cover area.
In general swap over all your stuff, Disassemble the LS6 once its out of the car. Use Tape (duct, electric, masking, painting) to hold up the rear half of the intake bolts. Disconnect the vaccume hose from the brake booster and route around the back to avoid breaking the oil pressure sensor. Disconnect the MAF harness before final pull. Use only Plastic fuel line disconnect too. IF you break the lock it is 60-80 for a new fuel line from the Dealer.
I most certainly agree the front coolant line does need to be bent down (soft, plastic, dead-blow hammer comes to mind). I fyou buy a kit new you get button head screws to clear the bottom in the intake valley cover area.
In general swap over all your stuff, Disassemble the LS6 once its out of the car. Use Tape (duct, electric, masking, painting) to hold up the rear half of the intake bolts. Disconnect the vaccume hose from the brake booster and route around the back to avoid breaking the oil pressure sensor. Disconnect the MAF harness before final pull. Use only Plastic fuel line disconnect too. IF you break the lock it is 60-80 for a new fuel line from the Dealer.
You must talking about the MAP sensor and MAP harness on the back of the intake lol? Don't want anybody confused
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Goto:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=5
Pics and write up of the entire process on how to remove and reinstall. I've got my Fast 90 off right now and it was pain free following those instructions.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=5
Pics and write up of the entire process on how to remove and reinstall. I've got my Fast 90 off right now and it was pain free following those instructions.
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Braselton,Ga
I used a thick vacum hose and put the hose on a rod and grinded the outside of the hose then took the original rubber piece off the Map sensor and put my newly formed gasket on the map sensor. I had to put spit around it and forcefully press the MAPS sensor into the hole in the intake,,I actually had it so tight that I had to use a small flat head to get the sensor started into the whole. It works great and doesn't even wiggle.
Thats what I would suggest doing↑↑↑↑ I also know several other people that have done this with no problems even over two years worth of DD driving.
.Thats what I would suggest doing↑↑↑↑ I also know several other people that have done this with no problems even over two years worth of DD driving.
