P&P TB problem..
P&P TB problem.. I bought a ported and polished throttle body off a guy on these for sale forums (not sure if I should post his name or not) planning on putting in when I installed my LS6 intake. The install goes great with no problems until I started the car. The RPMs started to climb and my foot wasn't on the gas pedal so I shut it off. I checked everything out and tried it again... same thing. So I put the stock tb back on and go check out the new P&P tb in my room with some light. Turns out that light was shining through the cracks around the throttle plate with it closed all the way.
I PMed the guy asking if he could replace it with one done right or just refund my money; still no reply. Is there a way to fix this problem or am I just SOL?
I PMed the guy asking if he could replace it with one done right or just refund my money; still no reply. Is there a way to fix this problem or am I just SOL?
is it really bad? not sure what can be done but you might be able to try this??? you might be able to use one of those metal epoxies and then sand it down to fill in the cracks? or maybe remove the blade and than weld and sand that area to fill it in? idk man?
Its normal to see a small crack of light around the blade at the idle position. If it didnt it would stick in the bore, they are machined that way from the GM supplier because of this. Now, how much crack of light around the blade is whats being asked. It may be overported meaning who ported it ported past were the blade is at idle and theres too much clearance between the blade and the housing. Another important question is does it have the right year cam on the end of the shaft. 98-99 and 00-04 are different, You need to check that.
First off you determine why there's the air. Set screw,
overported, overdrilled blade hole, or too-snug cables.
Of course in-hand, not on-car, the cables don't enter
into it. But a visible gap is not -necessarily- going to
make you idle crazy high. Depends. Compare them on
each point, the new one and your stocker. Look at
the throat where the blade seats (or should). The
hogging should not have touched the seating circle,
there should be unmolested metal & factory finish
there.
If the blade screws have not been restaked, you
may be able to loosen them & turn barely-snug, back
the stop screw out, crank it open and let it snap shut
a couple of times and tighten in place. That gives you
a best-centered seating. Then turn the setscrew in
until it barely doesn't bind under vacuum.
Used parts are like Internet dating. You could get a
bargain, or you could get somebody's ex-problem.
overported, overdrilled blade hole, or too-snug cables.
Of course in-hand, not on-car, the cables don't enter
into it. But a visible gap is not -necessarily- going to
make you idle crazy high. Depends. Compare them on
each point, the new one and your stocker. Look at
the throat where the blade seats (or should). The
hogging should not have touched the seating circle,
there should be unmolested metal & factory finish
there.
If the blade screws have not been restaked, you
may be able to loosen them & turn barely-snug, back
the stop screw out, crank it open and let it snap shut
a couple of times and tighten in place. That gives you
a best-centered seating. Then turn the setscrew in
until it barely doesn't bind under vacuum.
Used parts are like Internet dating. You could get a
bargain, or you could get somebody's ex-problem.
Yeah that sucks bro,who knows could be a few things ,I hope you didn't get screwed,if you live in ohio hit me up ill do your stock one up just throw in 15 for material if that helps,
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Just an off the wall question, are you using the same TBPS and IAC sensors on both the stock and P&P one or did the P&P one have its own?
Also, let me take a look at it to see what I can tell, second opinion never hutrs. Im out of town untill next week because of the holidays, but im on leave and can hit you up when I get back and swing by to check it out and tinker with it some. I P&P my own TB and had no idle problems, but maybe there is something else causing it, or it may just be a bad P&P job.
Also, let me take a look at it to see what I can tell, second opinion never hutrs. Im out of town untill next week because of the holidays, but im on leave and can hit you up when I get back and swing by to check it out and tinker with it some. I P&P my own TB and had no idle problems, but maybe there is something else causing it, or it may just be a bad P&P job.
I took a really good look at the TB again last night and I looked the spring. It was mostly scraped/worn off, but I did see a few areas that had blue paint on the spring so it's definitely for a 00-up LS1. I just bought a Shaner S2 from the 4 sale forum yesterday which will work with my year LS1.
Also! This P&P TB is for sale! check it out!
Also! This P&P TB is for sale! check it out!
Just an off the wall question, are you using the same TBPS and IAC sensors on both the stock and P&P one or did the P&P one have its own?
Also, let me take a look at it to see what I can tell, second opinion never hutrs. Im out of town untill next week because of the holidays, but im on leave and can hit you up when I get back and swing by to check it out and tinker with it some. I P&P my own TB and had no idle problems, but maybe there is something else causing it, or it may just be a bad P&P job.
Also, let me take a look at it to see what I can tell, second opinion never hutrs. Im out of town untill next week because of the holidays, but im on leave and can hit you up when I get back and swing by to check it out and tinker with it some. I P&P my own TB and had no idle problems, but maybe there is something else causing it, or it may just be a bad P&P job.
Did he try to knife edge the blade and did too much and that's causing the gap or did they try to port the center where the blade closes? Cause if it's the blade switch it with your stock.
And also, how would the wrong year cam affect it? All years are the same size(diameter), its the degree or angle of the cam where the cable meets that is different. I put the wrong year cam in my car, the only thing it caused was I couldn't fully open the blade to 90* but the butterfly was exactly the same
And also, how would the wrong year cam affect it? All years are the same size(diameter), its the degree or angle of the cam where the cable meets that is different. I put the wrong year cam in my car, the only thing it caused was I couldn't fully open the blade to 90* but the butterfly was exactly the same
Did he try to knife edge the blade and did too much and that's causing the gap or did they try to port the center where the blade closes? Cause if it's the blade switch it with your stock.
And also, how would the wrong year cam affect it? All years are the same size(diameter), its the degree or angle of the cam where the cable meets that is different. I put the wrong year cam in my car, the only thing it caused was I couldn't fully open the blade to 90* but the butterfly was exactly the same
And also, how would the wrong year cam affect it? All years are the same size(diameter), its the degree or angle of the cam where the cable meets that is different. I put the wrong year cam in my car, the only thing it caused was I couldn't fully open the blade to 90* but the butterfly was exactly the same
The cam is smaller for the 98-99, I bought an ls6 intake mani and a ported tb off a guy with a 98, and when i installed it I was overly disappointed with the power...i just figured i was hyping up all the ls6 intake talk in my head and i over estimated how much i would gain....a few months later I was doing the bumpstop mod and noticed that my tb was only opening to about 30*...the cam is smaller and no matter how much you adjust the cable it will not pull the blade open enough. I swapped out the cam from my stocker to the ported one and everything is golden
