buying used hooker LT question
buying used hooker LT question I am buying Coated Hooker LTs with Hooker ORY pipe used. My question is this: outside of the obvious pipe and headers....what else do I need to make sure that I have prior to taking it somewhere for install? ie gaskets, bolts...etc etc
You need tools, blocks, and patience. You will also need O2 extensions for the front O2 sensors and O2 simms for the rear O2 wires. You can re-use the stock gaskets and bolts from what I heard.
what ferocity02 said is basically all you need, but i'd get new gaskets just to be on the safe side besides i just bought some today and they were only 14 bucks just get new exhaust manifold gaskets from any car parts store. and from what i heard you don't need 02 simms they are just so you don't throw a code
Since these are used headers; You should find out what year the headers are for - in the very beginning, Hooker headers were only available up to 99' model year (I think).
* At any rate, if you have the earlier year headers you will also need the A.I.R. Tubes from a 98-99 car.
Your 2001 year parts will work, but will have to be bent/modded to fit correctly. The install is much nicer with the earlier year parts as mentioned above.
* If your car had EGR (which it doesn't) this would apply to the EGR Tube as well. But if the headers have provision for EGR - you will need an EGR Block Off Plate for the headers.
* Of course, you will not have to bother with the AIR Tubes if you have !AIR - then you will need the AIR Block Off Plates for the headers also. You also would not have to worry about the A.I.R. Tubes if you have the model headers without A.I.R. (The headers were sold this way for people that already had !AIR)
* And finally, if you are using the A.I.R. Tubes - you will need to get a set of restrictors. These are metal pieces with a certain diameter hole in them that go between the AIR mounting point on the headers and the AIR Tubes (must use two (2) gaskets on each side). They will eliminate burning up your AIR valves (black vlaves that are threaded onto the end of each AIR Tube) and stop the 'fluttering' noise.
Basically, you should find out what year these headers are for & go from there - just when you thought this was going to be easy!
* Use the stock gaskets (new ones are not expensive but you can reuse your old ones if in good shape).
* Use the stock header bolts or Stage8 Locking Bolts (that's what I used) - can also use the Breslin Split Lock Bolts.
* Use SS Band Clamps where possible - these seal better than the common type of clamps and will not distort the tubing - making it easy to remove/reinstall any part of the system later on.
* As stated previously - you will need O2 extensions for the front O2 sensors and O2 Sims for the rears.
-Jay-
* At any rate, if you have the earlier year headers you will also need the A.I.R. Tubes from a 98-99 car.
Your 2001 year parts will work, but will have to be bent/modded to fit correctly. The install is much nicer with the earlier year parts as mentioned above.
* If your car had EGR (which it doesn't) this would apply to the EGR Tube as well. But if the headers have provision for EGR - you will need an EGR Block Off Plate for the headers.
* Of course, you will not have to bother with the AIR Tubes if you have !AIR - then you will need the AIR Block Off Plates for the headers also. You also would not have to worry about the A.I.R. Tubes if you have the model headers without A.I.R. (The headers were sold this way for people that already had !AIR)
* And finally, if you are using the A.I.R. Tubes - you will need to get a set of restrictors. These are metal pieces with a certain diameter hole in them that go between the AIR mounting point on the headers and the AIR Tubes (must use two (2) gaskets on each side). They will eliminate burning up your AIR valves (black vlaves that are threaded onto the end of each AIR Tube) and stop the 'fluttering' noise.
Basically, you should find out what year these headers are for & go from there - just when you thought this was going to be easy!
* Use the stock gaskets (new ones are not expensive but you can reuse your old ones if in good shape).
* Use the stock header bolts or Stage8 Locking Bolts (that's what I used) - can also use the Breslin Split Lock Bolts.
* Use SS Band Clamps where possible - these seal better than the common type of clamps and will not distort the tubing - making it easy to remove/reinstall any part of the system later on.
* As stated previously - you will need O2 extensions for the front O2 sensors and O2 Sims for the rears.
-Jay-
they are from a 1999 LS1.... is this going to be more trouble than it is worth than to buy ones that were made for 2001?
the guy is selling me the LTs Ceramic Coated with the ORY Pipe for 200 so it is hard to pass up....
should I wait and buy ones for my car? or make these work?
the guy is selling me the LTs Ceramic Coated with the ORY Pipe for 200 so it is hard to pass up....
should I wait and buy ones for my car? or make these work?
Originally Posted by 1QUIKWS6
Since these are used headers; You should find out what year the headers are for - in the very beginning, Hooker headers were only available up to 99' model year (I think).
* At any rate, if you have the earlier year headers you will also need the A.I.R. Tubes from a 98-99 car.
Your 2001 year parts will work, but will have to be bent/modded to fit correctly. The install is much nicer with the earlier year parts as mentioned above.
* If your car had EGR (which it doesn't) this would apply to the EGR Tube as well. But if the headers have provision for EGR - you will need an EGR Block Off Plate for the headers.
* Of course, you will not have to bother with the AIR Tubes if you have !AIR - then you will need the AIR Block Off Plates for the headers also. You also would not have to worry about the A.I.R. Tubes if you have the model headers without A.I.R. (The headers were sold this way for people that already had !AIR)
* And finally, if you are using the A.I.R. Tubes - you will need to get a set of restrictors. These are metal pieces with a certain diameter hole in them that go between the AIR mounting point on the headers and the AIR Tubes (must use two (2) gaskets on each side). They will eliminate burning up your AIR valves (black vlaves that are threaded onto the end of each AIR Tube) and stop the 'fluttering' noise.
Basically, you should find out what year these headers are for & go from there - just when you thought this was going to be easy!
* Use the stock gaskets (new ones are not expensive but you can reuse your old ones if in good shape).
* Use the stock header bolts or Stage8 Locking Bolts (that's what I used) - can also use the Breslin Split Lock Bolts.
* Use SS Band Clamps where possible - these seal better than the common type of clamps and will not distort the tubing - making it easy to remove/reinstall any part of the system later on.
* As stated previously - you will need O2 extensions for the front O2 sensors and O2 Sims for the rears.
-Jay-
* At any rate, if you have the earlier year headers you will also need the A.I.R. Tubes from a 98-99 car.
Your 2001 year parts will work, but will have to be bent/modded to fit correctly. The install is much nicer with the earlier year parts as mentioned above.
* If your car had EGR (which it doesn't) this would apply to the EGR Tube as well. But if the headers have provision for EGR - you will need an EGR Block Off Plate for the headers.
* Of course, you will not have to bother with the AIR Tubes if you have !AIR - then you will need the AIR Block Off Plates for the headers also. You also would not have to worry about the A.I.R. Tubes if you have the model headers without A.I.R. (The headers were sold this way for people that already had !AIR)
* And finally, if you are using the A.I.R. Tubes - you will need to get a set of restrictors. These are metal pieces with a certain diameter hole in them that go between the AIR mounting point on the headers and the AIR Tubes (must use two (2) gaskets on each side). They will eliminate burning up your AIR valves (black vlaves that are threaded onto the end of each AIR Tube) and stop the 'fluttering' noise.
Basically, you should find out what year these headers are for & go from there - just when you thought this was going to be easy!
* Use the stock gaskets (new ones are not expensive but you can reuse your old ones if in good shape).
* Use the stock header bolts or Stage8 Locking Bolts (that's what I used) - can also use the Breslin Split Lock Bolts.
* Use SS Band Clamps where possible - these seal better than the common type of clamps and will not distort the tubing - making it easy to remove/reinstall any part of the system later on.
* As stated previously - you will need O2 extensions for the front O2 sensors and O2 Sims for the rears.
-Jay-
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$200 is pretty hard to pass up - I paid $500+ for just the headers & $400+ for the Catted Y-Pipe from JetHot - at the time I bought them the 2000 & up headers were not available. It ends up I never got them installed before the correct year headers became available - Chris @ JetHot would have exchanged them for me but I thought it was too much trouble, so I kept them.
Since these are 99' headers you will definitely need the EGR Block Off Plate for the headers since you have no EGR.
You will also have to pick up the AIR components as I described if you are keeping your A.I.R. The 98-99' version tubes can be found FS on the forums all the time for a cheap price (like I said, you don't have to use them but they are much easier to install since they fit to the headers exactly).
I guess it's up to you - you could hold off and wait to see if a 2K+ set becomes available - but that price is very good. It sounds worse than it really is - all of the parts mentioned are readily available - if you can't find the AIR tubes used you can still get the from the dealer. Once you have all the parts needed - it's not any harder to install than if you were using the 2K+ headers.
-Jay-
Since these are 99' headers you will definitely need the EGR Block Off Plate for the headers since you have no EGR.
You will also have to pick up the AIR components as I described if you are keeping your A.I.R. The 98-99' version tubes can be found FS on the forums all the time for a cheap price (like I said, you don't have to use them but they are much easier to install since they fit to the headers exactly).
I guess it's up to you - you could hold off and wait to see if a 2K+ set becomes available - but that price is very good. It sounds worse than it really is - all of the parts mentioned are readily available - if you can't find the AIR tubes used you can still get the from the dealer. Once you have all the parts needed - it's not any harder to install than if you were using the 2K+ headers.
-Jay-
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Verdad Gallardo another stupid question can I do the AIR components and the EGR block after they install it, or do I need this stuff prior to an install? If I take it to a reputable Performance Shop, do you think they would have that equipment for me there?
Originally Posted by 1QUIKWS6
$200 is pretty hard to pass up - I paid $500+ for just the headers & $400+ for the Catted Y-Pipe from JetHot - at the time I bought them the 2000 & up headers were not available. It ends up I never got them installed before the correct year headers became available - Chris @ JetHot would have exchanged them for me but I thought it was too much trouble, so I kept them.
Since these are 99' headers you will definitely need the EGR Block Off Plate for the headers since you have no EGR.
You will also have to pick up the AIR components as I described if you are keeping your A.I.R. The 98-99' version tubes can be found FS on the forums all the time for a cheap price (like I said, you don't have to use them but they are much easier to install since they fit to the headers exactly).
I guess it's up to you - you could hold off and wait to see if a 2K+ set becomes available - but that price is very good. It sounds worse than it really is - all of the parts mentioned are readily available - if you can't find the AIR tubes used you can still get the from the dealer. Once you have all the parts needed - it's not any harder to install than if you were using the 2K+ headers.
-Jay-
Since these are 99' headers you will definitely need the EGR Block Off Plate for the headers since you have no EGR.
You will also have to pick up the AIR components as I described if you are keeping your A.I.R. The 98-99' version tubes can be found FS on the forums all the time for a cheap price (like I said, you don't have to use them but they are much easier to install since they fit to the headers exactly).
I guess it's up to you - you could hold off and wait to see if a 2K+ set becomes available - but that price is very good. It sounds worse than it really is - all of the parts mentioned are readily available - if you can't find the AIR tubes used you can still get the from the dealer. Once you have all the parts needed - it's not any harder to install than if you were using the 2K+ headers.
-Jay-
The install shop would not need to have the EGR/AIR components to install the headers and you could easily install them yourself afterwards (i.e. they are not in areas hard to get at like so many other things on the F-Bodies!)
If you run the headers with no AIR Tubes or block off plates attached you'll have a lot of noise and probably throw an SES code due to the fact that there will be no xtra air injected into the cats to light them off before the car is warmed up - shouldn't actually hurt the car though.
Without a block off plate on the header EGR port you will just have a lot of noise.
The block off plates are available in kit form including gaskets from a sponsor/GM dealer on LS1.com - probably are here also - I just am not familiar with all the sponsors on this site. If you want to actually use the correct AIR tubes for this year header it may take a while to find them FS on the forum - but they can be purchased from any dealer rather quickly - you'll just pay more.
If your install shop is local and not one of the shops that are sponsors here, or on the 'other' site, then I would venture to guess that they would not have these items readily available. I had mine installed at Rapid Motorsports here in PA and even then I supplied them with all the parts needed (not to say they couldn't get them, I just wanted to have no snags during the install)
If you run the headers with no AIR Tubes or block off plates attached you'll have a lot of noise and probably throw an SES code due to the fact that there will be no xtra air injected into the cats to light them off before the car is warmed up - shouldn't actually hurt the car though.
Without a block off plate on the header EGR port you will just have a lot of noise.
The block off plates are available in kit form including gaskets from a sponsor/GM dealer on LS1.com - probably are here also - I just am not familiar with all the sponsors on this site. If you want to actually use the correct AIR tubes for this year header it may take a while to find them FS on the forum - but they can be purchased from any dealer rather quickly - you'll just pay more.
If your install shop is local and not one of the shops that are sponsors here, or on the 'other' site, then I would venture to guess that they would not have these items readily available. I had mine installed at Rapid Motorsports here in PA and even then I supplied them with all the parts needed (not to say they couldn't get them, I just wanted to have no snags during the install)
you talk of CATS... this is an ORY pipe so there will be no cats...
does this make a difference in anything you have said?
if I kick a code that is fine, because it will not be long before I do the other things you mentioned
does this make a difference in anything you have said?
if I kick a code that is fine, because it will not be long before I do the other things you mentioned
Sorry - my bad! If you have no cats but do install the O2 Sims - there will be no codes thrown if you don't have the AIR Tubes hooked up - just noise 
Now if you have no cats, and DON'T install the O2 Simms - then there will be a code thrown - in less of course you have this deleted from your PCM with LS1Edit
Now if you have no cats, and DON'T install the O2 Simms - then there will be a code thrown - in less of course you have this deleted from your PCM with LS1Edit
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I've got my Hooker LTs sitting on the kitchen table right now. I have a 2000 and I've got the correct headers for the car. What size restrictor plate do you need for the air tubes?
Do you have a pic?
Do you have a pic?
I'm not exactly positive - but I think the hole needs to be 3/16" diameter. No pics, but if you do a search either here or LS1.com you'll get all the info you need.
Basically it's just a duplicate of the gasket, only made out of thin metal, with a small hole in the center to 'throttle down' the pulses coming from the headers to the valves. You could make these yourself.
Basically it's just a duplicate of the gasket, only made out of thin metal, with a small hole in the center to 'throttle down' the pulses coming from the headers to the valves. You could make these yourself.
when you say noise... do you mean "good" noise? or bad noise? if you mean bad noise, what would be the cure to make it "good" noise?
Originally Posted by 1QUIKWS6
Sorry - my bad! If you have no cats but do install the O2 Sims - there will be no codes thrown if you don't have the AIR Tubes hooked up - just noise
Now if you have no cats, and DON'T install the O2 Simms - then there will be a code thrown - in less of course you have this deleted from your PCM with LS1Edit
Now if you have no cats, and DON'T install the O2 Simms - then there will be a code thrown - in less of course you have this deleted from your PCM with LS1Edit
when you say noise... do you mean "good" noise? or bad noise? if you mean bad noise, what would be the cure to make it "good" noise?
and also... I assume the two small tubes up near the front of the headers are the air tubes? and the larger one is the EGR? it looks pretty easy to just smack a piece of metal over that oval shape and weld it in place? wrong or right?
and also... I assume the two small tubes up near the front of the headers are the air tubes? and the larger one is the EGR? it looks pretty easy to just smack a piece of metal over that oval shape and weld it in place? wrong or right?
Originally Posted by 1QUIKWS6
I'm not exactly positive - but I think the hole needs to be 3/16" diameter. No pics, but if you do a search either here or LS1.com you'll get all the info you need.
Basically it's just a duplicate of the gasket, only made out of thin metal, with a small hole in the center to 'throttle down' the pulses coming from the headers to the valves. You could make these yourself.
Basically it's just a duplicate of the gasket, only made out of thin metal, with a small hole in the center to 'throttle down' the pulses coming from the headers to the valves. You could make these yourself.