My first H/C/I install
TB hole is oem, Oil in TB is from the pcv go to a catch can or ls6 valley cover, most ls1 cars use about 1/2 qt-1-1/2 qts every 3k miles between oil changes, Its will also foulout plugs
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2007
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Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 311
Likes: 4
I made a lot of progress yesterday I removed the intake and the MAP sensor connection, than I went with the passenger side head which was easy once the the coil packs got off. Once the head came off I noticed the carbon build up which is probably pretty normal, but what I didn't get was the pink color on the exhaust valves...anyone know what that's about? So far the LS1 How To.com walk through is straight..I deviated from it a bit which probably made me loose some time but so far so good...I also add a pic of the size diffrence from the 102 to the stock intake...more tommorow
thanks
thanks
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I made a lot of progress yesterday I removed the intake and the MAP sensor connection, than I went with the passenger side head which was easy once the the coil packs got off. Once the head came off I noticed the carbon build up which is probably pretty normal, but what I didn't get was the pink color on the exhaust valves...anyone know what that's about? So far the LS1 How To.com walk through is straight..I deviated from it a bit which probably made me loose some time but so far so good...I also add a pic of the size diffrence from the 102 to the stock intake...more tommorow
thanks
thanks
Thread Starter
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I didn't get much progress today i did however removed the radiator and fan, I cleaned off the surface area were the heads sit...i got to cleaning the head bolts and couldn't believe how long it took..i only got to finish the passenger side. My question to you guys is how clean do the head bolt holes need to be...I've stuck a paper towel in there untill they come out dry but when i threaded my fabricated cleaing bolt it goes in dry and comes out wet...than after i stick the paper towel in there to soak up the remaing coolant it comes out dry...should i be concerned about this and should i worry about the cleaning bolt coming out wet?
Last edited by oxblood!z28; Jan 3, 2011 at 12:22 AM.
Duct tape a straw to the end of a shop vac, and use that to clean out the holes. A little moisture is okay, but you do not want the bottom to be filled with any fluid that can bind between the bolt and the block.
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Yeah I'm stuck on the removing the oil pump...I loosend the oil pan bolts to lower it about half a inch and the Damn thing doesn't want to budge...any advice/tips/anything would help right about know...
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For some reason I always figure out my problem after I post my dilemma on here...so according to LS1 how to...it says to access the oil pickup bolt you have to lower the oil.pan about half a inch by loosing 12 to 10 bolts..I'm guessing his car was a 98 cause my 2000 had 10 bolts and 2 on the back of the trans. were the block meets up and 2 smaller bolts that near the very back...needless to say I got taken care of and it lowered once the bolts came out..but now I need to figure out how to remove it with out having it drop down in the pan...your thoughts and advice are welcomed ...thanks...
Last edited by oxblood!z28; Jan 8, 2011 at 02:23 AM.
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I need some advice guys...Im at the oil pump debating if I should replace it with the ported one I got...the reason is because I'm not to sure if I could put the bolt that attaches the pick up tube to the the oil pump back... my fingers will have a hard time...my TSP torque v.2 is in but does it require a better oil pump...or can I get a way with the old one...
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Since you already have the pump I would put it on but the mileage on the existing pump is a big factor!
where are you at on the removal stage? I would get the pan all the way down (touching the K-Member) on the front to give the most room possible. Did you get a new pickup tube O-ring? My method for removal of the pickup bolt was removing it about quarter to half way then take a zip tie and start a loop in it. slip over the bolt head and pull tight around bolt. It should be able to spin on the bolt as you continue to remove it but hold enough so when the bolt is loose you can use the tie to lower the bolt out of the pump/tube. When putting the new pump on, practice the process of getting the pump on the crank and seating the tube back in a few times before doing it for good with the new O-ring.
For getting the pickup bolt back in leave the pump free on the crank so you can spin/move it around (IE don't put the four bolts in until the one on the pickup tube is in) once the tube is seated back in the pump and ready to bolt it up, wrap something around the bolt to hold it that can be removed after its been started. I used a piece of grounding copper wire sitting around. Once the bolt is started and most the way back in work the holding wire off the bolt and seat it the rest of the way.
I would strongly suggest a ratcheting wrench for this whole process, the zip tie for removal and wire for installation both gave resistance to the bolt that allowed the ratchet to operate when the last few threads on the pump made the bolt loose and turn easy.
where are you at on the removal stage? I would get the pan all the way down (touching the K-Member) on the front to give the most room possible. Did you get a new pickup tube O-ring? My method for removal of the pickup bolt was removing it about quarter to half way then take a zip tie and start a loop in it. slip over the bolt head and pull tight around bolt. It should be able to spin on the bolt as you continue to remove it but hold enough so when the bolt is loose you can use the tie to lower the bolt out of the pump/tube. When putting the new pump on, practice the process of getting the pump on the crank and seating the tube back in a few times before doing it for good with the new O-ring.
For getting the pickup bolt back in leave the pump free on the crank so you can spin/move it around (IE don't put the four bolts in until the one on the pickup tube is in) once the tube is seated back in the pump and ready to bolt it up, wrap something around the bolt to hold it that can be removed after its been started. I used a piece of grounding copper wire sitting around. Once the bolt is started and most the way back in work the holding wire off the bolt and seat it the rest of the way.
I would strongly suggest a ratcheting wrench for this whole process, the zip tie for removal and wire for installation both gave resistance to the bolt that allowed the ratchet to operate when the last few threads on the pump made the bolt loose and turn easy.
Last edited by kagato; Jan 8, 2011 at 01:43 AM.
When I did my first cam swap I disassembled the oil pump, mated the pick-up tube to the housing, and then fastened the body to the block. For me it was easy and I was able to verify that the o-ring was not kinked. I re-installed the two gears in the pump and bolted the cover place on. I took apart my old pump prior to this so as to familiarize myself with the pump...its a simple gerotor design.
As for the pick-up tube bolt.... once I got the pan lowered I built a "dam" with some clean shop rags in the forward portion of the pan to keep the bolt from falling all the way back. Worked like a champ. I also had a pin magnet handy. It took me a few tried to get it threaded...patience....patience.
Here is a post I responded to a few years back. I included pics of the pump. I am at work and they are showing up as red X's. They may not for you, I am behind a firewall. When I get home tomorrow I can upload them here if you want to see them.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ml#post9098857
There are many ways to do this. Mine worked great for me.
Best of luck.
R/
Frat
EDIT: BTW... if you do use the "rag method" do not forget to remove them. I remember reading a post somewhere were a guy forgot and left them in his pan....
As for the pick-up tube bolt.... once I got the pan lowered I built a "dam" with some clean shop rags in the forward portion of the pan to keep the bolt from falling all the way back. Worked like a champ. I also had a pin magnet handy. It took me a few tried to get it threaded...patience....patience.
Here is a post I responded to a few years back. I included pics of the pump. I am at work and they are showing up as red X's. They may not for you, I am behind a firewall. When I get home tomorrow I can upload them here if you want to see them.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ml#post9098857
There are many ways to do this. Mine worked great for me.
Best of luck.
R/
Frat
EDIT: BTW... if you do use the "rag method" do not forget to remove them. I remember reading a post somewhere were a guy forgot and left them in his pan....
Last edited by Fratsit; Jan 8, 2011 at 03:06 PM. Reason: Added more info
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Nice rag trick Frat...i wish i tried that...it sounds pretty fool proof...but today the little bolt fell down into the oil pan...
so that's were I'm at right now everything was going smooth i even used a pen magnet to start it off and then boom it happened...here are some pics of the progress i've made so far but now I'm at the crossroads of droping the motor or figuring something out to remove the little bolt....I've tried a magnet and nothing...the pics are from the new timming chain and pick tube bolt...
so that's were I'm at right now everything was going smooth i even used a pen magnet to start it off and then boom it happened...here are some pics of the progress i've made so far but now I'm at the crossroads of droping the motor or figuring something out to remove the little bolt....I've tried a magnet and nothing...the pics are from the new timming chain and pick tube bolt...