My first H/C/I install
^ I did the rag thing too. That way if the bolt fell, it wouldn't go anywhere. ^ Prolly just end up pulling the pan off. I don't think you'll have to pull the engine for that. Worse comes to worse, disconnect the engine mounts and raise the engine up a hair.
If you're getting a ported oil pump, get the larger pickup tube O-Ring. TRUST ME.. It will save you hours and hundered$ of diagnostic trying to trace down a mysterious ticking and oil pressure fluctuation.
Thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...r-preload.html
Part#
Thicker oil pump o-ring GM# 12557752
Get a push rod length checker too. Helps eliminate guess work.
And the oil pump pickup tube bolt is a lot easier with a "custom" 10mm wrench. Grind the box end down to a slight taper to get it to squeeze under the oil pan gasket surface. Makes things MUCH easier.
If you're getting a ported oil pump, get the larger pickup tube O-Ring. TRUST ME.. It will save you hours and hundered$ of diagnostic trying to trace down a mysterious ticking and oil pressure fluctuation.
Thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...r-preload.html
Part#
Thicker oil pump o-ring GM# 12557752
Get a push rod length checker too. Helps eliminate guess work.
And the oil pump pickup tube bolt is a lot easier with a "custom" 10mm wrench. Grind the box end down to a slight taper to get it to squeeze under the oil pan gasket surface. Makes things MUCH easier.
Last edited by bayer-z28; Jan 8, 2011 at 09:20 PM.
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From: Camp Lejeune, NC
I did the same thing on one install luckily i had about 10 pen magnets handy i got that booger out in bout 5 minutes ya just gotta fish around, more than likely its hanging out in some oil close by though. If you have one of those doughnut lookin magnets you can tie a string around it a force it around in there you'll get it out
Nice rag trick Frat...i wish i tried that...it sounds pretty fool proof...but today the little bolt fell down into the oil pan...
so that's were I'm at right now everything was going smooth i even used a pen magnet to start it off and then boom it happened...here are some pics of the progress i've made so far but now I'm at the crossroads of droping the motor or figuring something out to remove the little bolt....I've tried a magnet and nothing...the pics are from the new timming chain and pick tube bolt...
so that's were I'm at right now everything was going smooth i even used a pen magnet to start it off and then boom it happened...here are some pics of the progress i've made so far but now I'm at the crossroads of droping the motor or figuring something out to remove the little bolt....I've tried a magnet and nothing...the pics are from the new timming chain and pick tube bolt...
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^ I did the rag thing too. That way if the bolt fell, it wouldn't go anywhere. ^ Prolly just end up pulling the pan off. I don't think you'll have to pull the engine for that. Worse comes to worse, disconnect the engine mounts and raise the engine up a hair.
If you're getting a ported oil pump, get the larger pickup tube O-Ring. TRUST ME.. It will save you hours and hundered$ of diagnostic trying to trace down a mysterious ticking and oil pressure fluctuation.
Thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...r-preload.html
Part#
Thicker oil pump o-ring GM# 12557752
Get a push rod length checker too. Helps eliminate guess work.
And the oil pump pickup tube bolt is a lot easier with a "custom" 10mm wrench. Grind the box end down to a slight taper to get it to squeeze under the oil pan gasket surface. Makes things MUCH easier.
If you're getting a ported oil pump, get the larger pickup tube O-Ring. TRUST ME.. It will save you hours and hundered$ of diagnostic trying to trace down a mysterious ticking and oil pressure fluctuation.
Thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...r-preload.html
Part#
Thicker oil pump o-ring GM# 12557752
Get a push rod length checker too. Helps eliminate guess work.
And the oil pump pickup tube bolt is a lot easier with a "custom" 10mm wrench. Grind the box end down to a slight taper to get it to squeeze under the oil pan gasket surface. Makes things MUCH easier.
Brother... go ahead and order that new oring....dont re-use that original. Sorry to hear about loosing that bolt. Like others have stated, you could drop the pan and get it or attempt to raise the engine....no need to start pulling the motor.
If you are feeling flustered just step away....take a break....and get back too it. Remember.... attention to detail is everything and getting frustrated only leads to skinned knuckles and broken parts.
Best of luck to you and keep the press.
R/
Frat
If you are feeling flustered just step away....take a break....and get back too it. Remember.... attention to detail is everything and getting frustrated only leads to skinned knuckles and broken parts.
Best of luck to you and keep the press.
R/
Frat
^ And watch out for those machined surfaces for the valve cover area.. ( 
) You'll lose blood easy on those.
Good advice tho.. Don't get frustrated and try and rush through anything. It can only get expensive that way and multiply your frustration.... Or you'll end up with a wrench through your wall.
) You'll lose blood easy on those.Good advice tho.. Don't get frustrated and try and rush through anything. It can only get expensive that way and multiply your frustration.... Or you'll end up with a wrench through your wall.
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Can you put your hand in the pan? If you can, just go fishing and search for it. If not, is there any way you can get more of the oil out (siphon pump, loads of paper towels) and then it should surface enough for you to use a pen magnet to ****** it.. my guess it is in a corner far enough that you are just missing it. Good luck!
^ I'm skinny and I can't even snake my hand in there.. You can barely get a finger in there to hold the oil pump pickup tube bolt in... Or take it out or PUT it back in for that matter. There's a small magnet that slips onto the box end of most wrenches and I remember using that to hold the bolt on the wrench as I guided it into place.
You've got about an inch of clearance to deal with in there.
This is with the pan DROPPED a little..
It's really not fun dealing with that little bugger, but I've about got it down to a science now.
You've got about an inch of clearance to deal with in there.
This is with the pan DROPPED a little..
It's really not fun dealing with that little bugger, but I've about got it down to a science now. LS1 Tech Stories
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Oh yes I got the little bolt out
...I decided to take a look at it one more time and there it was down by the pick up tube right where the pan starts to get deeper...i was able to see it cause i drained the oil out cause it needs an oil change...after seeing it i went ahead and grab the pen magnet and fished it out...when i get the o-ring I'm going to do the rag trick and get it done..thanks for the advice guys keep it coming...
...I decided to take a look at it one more time and there it was down by the pick up tube right where the pan starts to get deeper...i was able to see it cause i drained the oil out cause it needs an oil change...after seeing it i went ahead and grab the pen magnet and fished it out...when i get the o-ring I'm going to do the rag trick and get it done..thanks for the advice guys keep it coming... 
that **** makes the world a better place 
A 10mm flexhead gearwrench is worth it's weight in gold when removing/installing the oil pump pickup tube bolt. As mentioned earlier, tying string onto the bolt (and pulling upward to get some form of tension) was the only way I could get the bolt back in the pump.
Def get an adj pushrod, very easy to use and just $20. When measuring for exhaust lifter preload, ensure the intake lifter is on the cam's base circle, and vice versa. Shoot for .050-.080" preload.
You'll most likely have to grind down the top surface of the waterpump in order to get the FAST 102mm to fit. Also, the MAP sensor will be a loose fit in the provided hole, so grab some sensor safe RTV.
Def get an adj pushrod, very easy to use and just $20. When measuring for exhaust lifter preload, ensure the intake lifter is on the cam's base circle, and vice versa. Shoot for .050-.080" preload.
You'll most likely have to grind down the top surface of the waterpump in order to get the FAST 102mm to fit. Also, the MAP sensor will be a loose fit in the provided hole, so grab some sensor safe RTV.
Oh yes I got the little bolt out...I decided to take a look at it one more time and there it was down by the pick up tube right where the pan starts to get deeper...i was able to see it cause i drained the oil out cause it needs an oil change...after seeing it i went ahead and grab the pen magnet and fished it out...when i get the o-ring I'm going to do the rag trick and get it done..thanks for the advice guys keep it coming...
...I decided to take a look at it one more time and there it was down by the pick up tube right where the pan starts to get deeper...i was able to see it cause i drained the oil out cause it needs an oil change...after seeing it i went ahead and grab the pen magnet and fished it out...when i get the o-ring I'm going to do the rag trick and get it done..thanks for the advice guys keep it coming...Bayer-Z28 is spot on with those machined surfaces. I am a member of the sliced open hand club.
I agree with Squirts... get yourself a flex head gear wrench... that way when you get the bolt started, you wont have to remove the wrench head. Saves time and space to work in is not as much of an issue..... that.... coupled with the "rag dam" and you should be set. I also put a little dollop if silicone where the front cover meets the oil pan.
R/
Frat
When I did my first cam swap I disassembled the oil pump, mated the pick-up tube to the housing, and then fastened the body to the block. For me it was easy and I was able to verify that the o-ring was not kinked. I re-installed the two gears in the pump and bolted the cover place on. I took apart my old pump prior to this so as to familiarize myself with the pump...its a simple gerotor design.
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So i got good news and bad news(the bad news i'm worried about)...the good news is that the little bolt is no longer in the oil pan and back on the pick up tube...I used Frats rag trick and built a dam to prevent the bolt from disappering again and it worked out awesome cause i dropped that bolt at least 4-5 times. What i did was build the damn and used a pen magnet with a swivel head to manuver the bolt through the whole. Once the i got it through i used my finger and applied pressure to the bolt to hold it in place...while in place i grabbed the pen magnet and used it to turn the bolt as i eased up on the finger pressure (this was a very slow process) but once i got about 2 1/2 turns it stayed in place...i tightend it with a 10mm wrench going under neathe the oil pan gasket at first (again this was a very slow process) and waala it was bolted on... I also used the o-ring that Bayer recommended and put that in place...the timing cover is all buttoned up with new ASP Pulley in place with out issues...Now for the Bad news...I thought i was gonna have the Heads and Intake on today but the instruction on the FAST slowed me down quite a bit...anyways i dropped the new lifters in with LS2 trays and while trying to torque them down to 110 inch lbs. i noticed that the lifter tray bolt on cylinder 1 and 3 continues to spin and only get 50 inch lbs. of torque. Can i get a way with 50 inch lbs..or do i need to retap the bolt hole and save the cam from the getting destroyed...(this is my new dilema)...my computer is acting up cant post pics just got one...i'll try in a bit
Last edited by oxblood!z28; Jan 15, 2011 at 10:33 PM.
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A 10mm flexhead gearwrench is worth it's weight in gold when removing/installing the oil pump pickup tube bolt. As mentioned earlier, tying string onto the bolt (and pulling upward to get some form of tension) was the only way I could get the bolt back in the pump.
Def get an adj pushrod, very easy to use and just $20. When measuring for exhaust lifter preload, ensure the intake lifter is on the cam's base circle, and vice versa. Shoot for .050-.080" preload.
You'll most likely have to grind down the top surface of the waterpump in order to get the FAST 102mm to fit. Also, the MAP sensor will be a loose fit in the provided hole, so grab some sensor safe RTV.
Def get an adj pushrod, very easy to use and just $20. When measuring for exhaust lifter preload, ensure the intake lifter is on the cam's base circle, and vice versa. Shoot for .050-.080" preload.
You'll most likely have to grind down the top surface of the waterpump in order to get the FAST 102mm to fit. Also, the MAP sensor will be a loose fit in the provided hole, so grab some sensor safe RTV.
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Hey guys its been a while since my last post and i'm still having problems uploading pictures...but to let you guys know were i'm at with my H/C/I install i'm glad to say that i've torqued down the heads and motor is starting to look like a serious engine...however i do have a few questions maybe you could answer...
1. How do you figure out how to get the right PR length...i just purchased a comp cam adj. PR checker and as far as i know one full turn is .050 and the pushrod is 6.80 unscrewed...but how will i know how many turns to give it when i drop it in towards the lifter and will this determine the right PR length?
2. Will my Torquer V.2 cam be ok with piston to valve clearence? This should of been asked before i torqued down the heads but from what i gatherd on the search was that it should clear...what do you guys think (.595,.598)?
3. I'm using yella terra 1.7 non adj. rockers and i understand that i need the swipe pattern on the center of the valve stem...how do i achieve this?
4. My FAST 102 is drilled with MAP sensor located on the rear and while reading the instructions in the section "requierd modifications" #3 states that i have to remove the plactic clips from the knock sensors...my question is why remove the plastic clips if they are below the valley cover and will more than likely not cause interference..am i missing something here?
5. Last question i just got a coolant pipe and plugs that are required for the FAST 102 does any one know how you connect this...is there a diagram i can look at online that can help out...nothing in the instruction...
thanks
1. How do you figure out how to get the right PR length...i just purchased a comp cam adj. PR checker and as far as i know one full turn is .050 and the pushrod is 6.80 unscrewed...but how will i know how many turns to give it when i drop it in towards the lifter and will this determine the right PR length?
2. Will my Torquer V.2 cam be ok with piston to valve clearence? This should of been asked before i torqued down the heads but from what i gatherd on the search was that it should clear...what do you guys think (.595,.598)?
3. I'm using yella terra 1.7 non adj. rockers and i understand that i need the swipe pattern on the center of the valve stem...how do i achieve this?
4. My FAST 102 is drilled with MAP sensor located on the rear and while reading the instructions in the section "requierd modifications" #3 states that i have to remove the plactic clips from the knock sensors...my question is why remove the plastic clips if they are below the valley cover and will more than likely not cause interference..am i missing something here?
5. Last question i just got a coolant pipe and plugs that are required for the FAST 102 does any one know how you connect this...is there a diagram i can look at online that can help out...nothing in the instruction...
thanks
Last edited by oxblood!z28; Jan 16, 2011 at 11:15 AM.
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HeLp!!!! I got good news and bad news..the good news is i just saved 100 dollars on my geico insurance...no really my H/C/I install fired up first try with no leaks and when it came on it sounded ferocious... the bad news is the oil pressure gauge is reading no pressure...I've searched on the possiblilities and came across one thread that said it could be one of two things the o-ring on the oil pick up tube, or the oil presure sender towards the back of the intake...or could it be the gauge thats acting acting faulty...if it is the oil pressure sender is faulty how can i diagnos it and what the price for a new one?
Good read, sucks you have no oil pressure after all that.
Is that oversized o-ring for the oil pump necessary when using an aftermarket Melling pump? Is this an o-ring for the pick up tube or the back of the oil pump?
Is that oversized o-ring for the oil pump necessary when using an aftermarket Melling pump? Is this an o-ring for the pick up tube or the back of the oil pump?