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replacing oil pan. any pointers?

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Old 12-30-2010, 09:25 PM
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Default replacing oil pan. any pointers?

i tried a search and there wasnt too much on this subject. i just got my new oil pan in the mail today. ive read a few write ups for the process including my haynes manual.

those that have done this before: how hard was it? how long did it take? do you have any tips or pointers for me?

as far as i know, i need to take the (18?) mm bolt on each motor mount that hold it to the bracket and lift up the motor 3 or so inches. then i need to unbolt the shocks from either the top or bottom and the steering linkage. then from there the pan should be able to slide out?

do i need to put rtv on the corners between the gasket and pan? or gasket and block? or both? neither?

i might also be doing my steering rack at the same time since its worn out and ive heard you need to jack the motor up to get the bolts to clear as you loosen them.

how long did this take you guys? i will be using a normal set of hand tools. no air tools or anything

thanks in advance for the help
Old 12-31-2010, 01:20 PM
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I don't know if you're changing out your oil pickup tube as part of this swap, but if you are, be VERY CAREFUL that the tube and o-ring are seated correctly. If there's any misalignment, the tube may suck air at the top instead of oil at the bottom. Result? No oil pressure. Ask me how I know...

As far as removing the pan itself, the tools needed are pretty basic. The back two bolts are pretty recessed, though, so you might need a long-ish allen or a socket-allen with an extension.

Good luck,

Dean
Old 01-01-2011, 04:46 PM
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no just the pan and gasket. thanks
Old 01-01-2011, 07:44 PM
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You are going to need a few stands to help you out. Just drop the whole k member. You need to make sure you place the stands in a good location under the motor. I just placed mine under the transmission when I did it. You have to remember that it will be holding your whole motor up. And no 3 inches will not be enough room. Your pick up tube is going to stop you from getting it off. I hated doing this it's a pain in the *** but if you know what you are doing it won't take but about 4 to 5 hours. Have a buddy to help putting the k back on. That **** is acually really heavy. I used a second Jack to help. Good luck. The motor mounts took the longest for me.
Old 01-01-2011, 08:12 PM
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if you or a buddy you know have a stb, you can also use that and run a couple straps around the motor to help hold it up. sucks tho because you will need a realignment after you get the k member it all put back in
Old 01-01-2011, 08:19 PM
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just put a jack and block of wood under the balancer..lower the k member just a bit, you won't need to take it all the way out.
Old 01-02-2011, 02:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 1999Z28
just put a jack and block of wood under the balancer..lower the k member just a bit, you won't need to take it all the way out.
You really want all that weight on you crank? I know they are not weak, but I would not chance it.
Old 01-02-2011, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by justinj
You really want all that weight on you crank? I know they are not weak, but I would not chance it.
how much does the motor and transmission actually weigh? cant be too much strees on the crank right?
Old 01-03-2011, 12:27 AM
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i am as far as the motor mounts. how did anyone get the right angle to get the bolts out? theres little to no room to turn the ratchet
Old 01-03-2011, 12:55 AM
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I swapped mine out last month. I have a tubular k-member. Here a brief break down on what I did when i had to change mine. Hope it helps!

- jack up the car. I used truck jacks since you need to get it up high
- remove any accessories that will get in your way from Bolting the motor to a cherry picker.
- Jack up the cherry picker high enough to hold the motor in place
- place floor jack on tranny. (Just for extra support)
- Unbolt motor mounts
- Unbolt k-member
- Unbolt oil pan

Make sure you align the pan correctly along with torque specs!
GL




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