Have the Perfect setup? No regrets?
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Somewhere in AZ
Have the Perfect setup? No regrets? I would like to know who on here (if brave enough to say) thinks they have the damn near if not perfect set up for their LS1. Im talking about from the time you got it, till whatever point you are at right now. If you think you have invested the proper time, research, and money into your car, what exactly did you do, and how did you get there. I ask cause I am trying to put together a nice H/C/I combo, and it is driving me into a wall 
to no end. I dont want to waste money and time, but it seems I may have to just to see what exactly works for me. So I wonder to myself, "does anybody really get this right the first time?"
to no end. I dont want to waste money and time, but it seems I may have to just to see what exactly works for me. So I wonder to myself, "does anybody really get this right the first time?" 
Before I chose my cam, I spent 8 hrs a day for a month researching the cam, asking thousands of questions... I finally decided on my custom 228/232 .588/.595 110+4 cam...
My cam is totally street able.. Car isn't my DD... But I will say, being cut on a 110+4 it was a PITA to tune.. I had to take it to my tuner (Mike @ Straightline) which he was soooooooo patient with me and my car 5 times to get the tune right. My car was very finicky with this cam... We found out my problem after I got rid of my stock MAF and went with a Z06 (85mm MAF) that about 99% of my problems went away..
Before the cam, I dynoed 331/344 at the rear.
After the cam and tune I dynoed 415/378.. Then added an 85mm LID/MAF and went with 42# injectors and dynoed 419/382 all at the rear..
my number and mods are in my sig. My car was dynoed on a MUSTANG DYNO!!! Stock un-touched 241 heads and LS6 intake.....
Soon I will get me som LS6 (243) heads and do a FAST set up
My cam is totally street able.. Car isn't my DD... But I will say, being cut on a 110+4 it was a PITA to tune.. I had to take it to my tuner (Mike @ Straightline) which he was soooooooo patient with me and my car 5 times to get the tune right. My car was very finicky with this cam... We found out my problem after I got rid of my stock MAF and went with a Z06 (85mm MAF) that about 99% of my problems went away..
Before the cam, I dynoed 331/344 at the rear.
After the cam and tune I dynoed 415/378.. Then added an 85mm LID/MAF and went with 42# injectors and dynoed 419/382 all at the rear..
my number and mods are in my sig. My car was dynoed on a MUSTANG DYNO!!! Stock un-touched 241 heads and LS6 intake.....
Soon I will get me som LS6 (243) heads and do a FAST set up
I will say I did drive a stalled auto ss with a 228 cam,and ported 243s,catted y pipe,magnaflow catback,this was very nice to drive compared to my ms4 cam car,very good on the street,didn't have much of a cam sound but sounded really nice,had a lot of punch power,my car is set up a lil more for the track ,but I was very impressed with his set up,there are better set ups than this but for what it was it had a lot of performance,think a mid to low 230s cam and ported 243s are a good choice
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Somewhere in AZ
Thats all cool. I just really dont know what route to go right now. Im gonna have a nice lump of money when I get back, but not enough to go with the procharger I want. but I do have enough to get a nice ammount of power and I want to do it right, Im just sidetracked by all the numbers. Lift, duration, LSA, ramp rate, supporting mods, and everything else. I was going the MS3 route, but theres a hell of a lot of cams out there that do just as good a job, with a cheaper price, and not as many suppoting mods. Like I said, Im boggled.
To put in a cam there all gonna cost about the same,they all need springs,pushrods,oil pump,ls2 chain,etc. What do you want out of the car,or what will you be doing with it, street car,dd, ms3,4 are good cams but it really depends on what your plan is,mine is more of a street,track car.
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I really like my set up I have mods in sig plusses trickflow 238/242 112lsa cam car is very drivable in my opinion and makes great power and is a blast.used to use 125rwhp shot of dope but car feels just as strongnow and is pleanty of power for a car I can DD if I want
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I will say perfect setup is different for everybody. Depends on your goals and what you consider driveable. maybe call a few sponsors and talk to them about what your goals are. I have the MS4 with LS6 heads and some consider it too much of a pain to drive on the street often. I really have no problems with it as I'm now stepping it up to the 227's. So I would say first and foremost you need to figure out your goals
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Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Somewhere in AZ
So I googled Pat G Cams, cause i had no clue what the hell you guys were talking about. Thaought it was a Patriot cam or something. There on the home page is my exact 2000 WS6 pewter M6. So I did some research, and it looks like this is definately going to help me out a lot. Thanks for the suggestion fellas. Ill be talking with him soon enough. Im guessing you guys are satisfied with the advice gained from him.
I think it greatly depends on whether its a manual or auto that your starting with... and what your goals are, ie DD vs street / strip vs track only. Assuming you mean DD...
I think the easiest, least problems, get in an drive setup was in my M6 camaro before I turboed it. It had full suspension, sfc's, lcas, phb, springs/shocks, lightweight flywheel, true dual exhaust, and a 4.10 rearend.
I probably would add a couple small things like a mild heads cam setup. But that setup was ****, it was pretty fast and perfect for a DD. Id have no problems driving that car across country w/ little technical knowledge. And it did really well versus more modified Ls1's because they either had no suspension and couldnt plant it or had low gears.
Now with the turbo, its WAY more fun... but its WAY more work. And you have to be able to fix just about anything, just about anywhere, with whatever you happen to have on you. For example at the LA invasion 2 years ago i hit a HUGE pothole, the oil line at the turbo contacted with the panhard / body and busted the line. Spent the entire track day pulling the turbo out to replace the line because it had actually broken leaving the threads inside the turbo. SUCKED!
Some days i miss the easy get in, drive it hard, and it'll still get you to work tomorrow type car. lol
I think the easiest, least problems, get in an drive setup was in my M6 camaro before I turboed it. It had full suspension, sfc's, lcas, phb, springs/shocks, lightweight flywheel, true dual exhaust, and a 4.10 rearend.
I probably would add a couple small things like a mild heads cam setup. But that setup was ****, it was pretty fast and perfect for a DD. Id have no problems driving that car across country w/ little technical knowledge. And it did really well versus more modified Ls1's because they either had no suspension and couldnt plant it or had low gears.
Now with the turbo, its WAY more fun... but its WAY more work. And you have to be able to fix just about anything, just about anywhere, with whatever you happen to have on you. For example at the LA invasion 2 years ago i hit a HUGE pothole, the oil line at the turbo contacted with the panhard / body and busted the line. Spent the entire track day pulling the turbo out to replace the line because it had actually broken leaving the threads inside the turbo. SUCKED!
Some days i miss the easy get in, drive it hard, and it'll still get you to work tomorrow type car. lol
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Columbus Ohio
I wish my car was still like the following, TR224 cam, 3000 stall converter, 3.73 gears, headers, or-y, basic BMR suspension stuff (torque arm, LCAs, and panhard rod), basic Nitto drag radials, and 100 shot. Car went 12.0 all motor, ran like a top, and was a great all around car.
I like it now also, but I went too aggressive when I blew the original motor up. Now some things are a pretty good compromise, bigger cam, 4000 stall, 9" with a spool, and bigger stickier tires. It just isn't as easy to go cruise in anymore, but it's deep into the 10s, full weight, with all the options.
I like it now also, but I went too aggressive when I blew the original motor up. Now some things are a pretty good compromise, bigger cam, 4000 stall, 9" with a spool, and bigger stickier tires. It just isn't as easy to go cruise in anymore, but it's deep into the 10s, full weight, with all the options.
^ agree with these guys,these are really nice fun cars to drive and what do we do to them lol destroy them,in a waylol,when I had bolt ons and gears it was fun to drive,could drive it anywhere and got great gas mileage,I like it now but if it was a dd I couldn't stand shaking to death at stop lights from a huge cam,lol we all just wanna go fast lol
I'm comfortable saying that "my setup is perfect for my needs/goals".
My criteria were the following:
1. Must be completely reliable as a daily driver (even though it isn't my daily driver car). The 228/230 cam mated with milled PRC Stage 2.5 heads helped keep things smooth with the starts, etc.
2. I'm fine with sacraficing peak HP to have a car that's strong throughout the curve. Ended up with 440/408 N/A but the TQ curve is almost flat and it hits hard lower in the curve. Probably could've squeezed out another 25+ rwhp with a larger cam and different heads, but just not necessary for me.
3. Wanted an idiot-proof nitrous setup as a 100 - 125 hp insurance policy in case I ran into something really fun to race. Push button to open bottle from the driver seat, activate system, hit the gas pedal and the electronics do all the rest.
4. I wanted the old car with a lopey cam sound. Cam @ 112 LSA + long tube headers + ORY + cutout in the Flowmaster catback = achieved. Close the cutout if you need a mild sound for longer drives or open it up at the track for crazy loud volume and max performance.
I can't take credit for the order of it all -- you guys helped me make all of the decisions. And thanks to Vengeance -- they were installing the heads and just before they were about to install my LS6 intake Ron gave me a call to chat about the ported FAST -- glad I went ahead and upgraded the intake at that time. It was like night and day returning home with the car!
My criteria were the following:
1. Must be completely reliable as a daily driver (even though it isn't my daily driver car). The 228/230 cam mated with milled PRC Stage 2.5 heads helped keep things smooth with the starts, etc.
2. I'm fine with sacraficing peak HP to have a car that's strong throughout the curve. Ended up with 440/408 N/A but the TQ curve is almost flat and it hits hard lower in the curve. Probably could've squeezed out another 25+ rwhp with a larger cam and different heads, but just not necessary for me.
3. Wanted an idiot-proof nitrous setup as a 100 - 125 hp insurance policy in case I ran into something really fun to race. Push button to open bottle from the driver seat, activate system, hit the gas pedal and the electronics do all the rest.
4. I wanted the old car with a lopey cam sound. Cam @ 112 LSA + long tube headers + ORY + cutout in the Flowmaster catback = achieved. Close the cutout if you need a mild sound for longer drives or open it up at the track for crazy loud volume and max performance.
I can't take credit for the order of it all -- you guys helped me make all of the decisions. And thanks to Vengeance -- they were installing the heads and just before they were about to install my LS6 intake Ron gave me a call to chat about the ported FAST -- glad I went ahead and upgraded the intake at that time. It was like night and day returning home with the car!
