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Old

Feb 22, 2011 | 04:30 PM

#1

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Need help! (intake)

Well after almost being done chiseling the ribs on the bottom of my ls6 intake, I fucked up! I was chiseling it when it broke through the bottom of the intake..is there any any way to fix this? Please!

Last edited by RAIDER; Feb 22, 2011 at 06:44 PM.

Old

Feb 22, 2011 | 04:43 PM

#2

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JB weld

http://jbweld.net/index.php

Old

Feb 22, 2011 | 04:51 PM

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Which product woul you recommend?

Old

Feb 22, 2011 | 04:52 PM

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From: Spring

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I would JB Weld the **** out of it. It should be ok.

Old

Feb 22, 2011 | 05:33 PM

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Thats why I recommend grinding the ribs off with a dremel.

Old

Feb 22, 2011 | 05:38 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by RAIDER

Well after almost being done chiseling the ribs on the bottom of my ls6 intake, I fucked up! I was chiseling it when it broke through the bottom of the intake..is there any any way to fix this? Please!

If you have a Matco tool dealer in your area they sale Q Bond its amazing for things like that. The stuff i pretty wild

Old

Feb 22, 2011 | 05:48 PM

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From: plainfield, il

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x3 on the jbweld..too bad it wasnt closer to the t/b opening to where you can sand it down easier (if you were to do that)

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Old

Feb 22, 2011 | 06:37 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Greekey

Thats why I recommend grinding the ribs off with a dremel.

That's what I did. These intakes can be brittle.

But yeah.. If you can find the piece, grab some liquid JB weld. Or the Matco epoxy.

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Old

Feb 22, 2011 | 09:18 PM

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Thanks guys for all the replies..I was really stressing it and already dreading having to fork over another 300 for another one..

Old

Feb 22, 2011 | 09:26 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Greekey

Thats why I recommend grinding the ribs off with a dremel.

Would of been so much easier knowing how much pressure I was actually putting on it..I was wincing before every blow..

Old

Feb 23, 2011 | 12:14 PM

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Ok call me an idiot, but what's the point/ benefit of removing the webbing? It's there for strength anyways isn't it?

Old

Feb 23, 2011 | 12:17 PM

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Coolant lines run under the intake manifold. If you don't have coolant block off plugs for the rear and another front coolant pipe, you have to grind the ribs for it to fit.

Old

Feb 23, 2011 | 12:19 PM

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Ah I see, makes since

Old

Feb 24, 2011 | 08:32 PM

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MarineTex

The stuff is great. A friend used it on his cracked block on a marine engine. Held up 6 years. Sold the boat, and the new owner never had any problems.

Last edited by 77BlueL82; Feb 24, 2011 at 08:33 PM. Reason: spelling/typing

Old

Feb 25, 2011 | 01:09 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Greekey

Thats why I recommend grinding the ribs off with a dremel.

What bit for the dremel would you use to do it?

Old

Feb 27, 2011 | 06:48 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 77BlueL82

The stuff is great. A friend used it on his cracked block on a marine engine. Held up 6 years. Sold the boat, and the new owner never had any problems.

Jb weld or the matco epoxy?

Old

Feb 27, 2011 | 07:34 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DeLaRosa25

What bit for the dremel would you use to do it?

Regular Dremel (craftsman dremel is about the same) with the rotary cutting bit.

Old

Feb 27, 2011 | 09:43 AM

#18

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From: Spring

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I just used a flat head screw driver and made sure to hit the ribs at a steep angle

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