Intake/Valley Cover Swap Part Numbers
01-31-2012, 10:34 AM
#21
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I just ordered an LS6 cover from GM Parts direct, but I used this part number 12568002 which is listed as 2001+ LS6 vally cover in another thread, what's the difference with this one 12577927? they are both the same price, but the description doesn't say which is which?
02-01-2012, 06:03 AM
#23
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So, how does 2x steam crossover pipes (12602544) work? Connect one at the front, one at the back, cap off the one at the back, run the one at the front back to the radiator? It strikes me that capping the back at both ends would be simpler, no?
Does capping the back at both ends cause an issue?
Does capping the back at both ends cause an issue?
02-01-2012, 11:36 AM
#24
So, how does 2x steam crossover pipes (12602544) work? Connect one at the front, one at the back, cap off the one at the back, run the one at the front back to the radiator? It strikes me that capping the back at both ends would be simpler, no?
Does capping the back at both ends cause an issue?
Does capping the back at both ends cause an issue?
02-03-2012, 10:51 AM
#26
http://www.texas-speed.com/p-86-cool...sx-intake.aspx
02-03-2012, 12:01 PM
#27
Basically, you will order 2 of the tsp kits, kinda. That kit comes with the front cross over and 2 plugs for the rear...which is acceptable. However, there have been issues reported of #7 and 8 cylinders getting hot because of the lack of rear coolant flow.
The ls1 had all 4 corners of the heads connected, when the ls6 intake became standard, they couldn't use the steam tubes that ran under the intake, because of room. So they just blocked the rear 2 ports off, forcing any coolant to work it's way up thru the head and back to the water pump.
Using 2, ls6 front coolant cross overs, one at the front in the traditional location, and one at the back pointing the outlet toward the firewall, you can easily connect these 2 with a rubber hose without going under the intake.
As far as your catch can routing with your ls6 valley cover, you will go from the nipple on the valley cover to the inlet of the catch can, then from the outlet of the catch can to the intake.
Connect the one fresh air inlet hose from the throttle body to the valve cover and cap every other port off on the valve covers that is related to the ls1 Pcv system.
The ls1 had all 4 corners of the heads connected, when the ls6 intake became standard, they couldn't use the steam tubes that ran under the intake, because of room. So they just blocked the rear 2 ports off, forcing any coolant to work it's way up thru the head and back to the water pump.
Using 2, ls6 front coolant cross overs, one at the front in the traditional location, and one at the back pointing the outlet toward the firewall, you can easily connect these 2 with a rubber hose without going under the intake.
As far as your catch can routing with your ls6 valley cover, you will go from the nipple on the valley cover to the inlet of the catch can, then from the outlet of the catch can to the intake.
Connect the one fresh air inlet hose from the throttle body to the valve cover and cap every other port off on the valve covers that is related to the ls1 Pcv system.
02-09-2012, 01:03 PM
#28
Basically, you will order 2 of the tsp kits, kinda. That kit comes with the front cross over and 2 plugs for the rear...which is acceptable. However, there have been issues reported of #7 and 8 cylinders getting hot because of the lack of rear coolant flow.
The ls1 had all 4 corners of the heads connected, when the ls6 intake became standard, they couldn't use the steam tubes that ran under the intake, because of room. So they just blocked the rear 2 ports off, forcing any coolant to work it's way up thru the head and back to the water pump.
Using 2, ls6 front coolant cross overs, one at the front in the traditional location, and one at the back pointing the outlet toward the firewall, you can easily connect these 2 with a rubber hose without going under the intake.
As far as your catch can routing with your ls6 valley cover, you will go from the nipple on the valley cover to the inlet of the catch can, then from the outlet of the catch can to the intake.
Connect the one fresh air inlet hose from the throttle body to the valve cover and cap every other port off on the valve covers that is related to the ls1 Pcv system.
The ls1 had all 4 corners of the heads connected, when the ls6 intake became standard, they couldn't use the steam tubes that ran under the intake, because of room. So they just blocked the rear 2 ports off, forcing any coolant to work it's way up thru the head and back to the water pump.
Using 2, ls6 front coolant cross overs, one at the front in the traditional location, and one at the back pointing the outlet toward the firewall, you can easily connect these 2 with a rubber hose without going under the intake.
As far as your catch can routing with your ls6 valley cover, you will go from the nipple on the valley cover to the inlet of the catch can, then from the outlet of the catch can to the intake.
Connect the one fresh air inlet hose from the throttle body to the valve cover and cap every other port off on the valve covers that is related to the ls1 Pcv system.
So I can run basic rubber hosing from the front LS6 tube to the rear LS6 tube to ensure coolant flow to all of the engine? And you would not suggest to run them under the intake??
I was not planning on running a catch can at the moment, I was going to see how well the LS6 valley cover performed before throwing another $100ish at the issue.
02-26-2012, 01:01 AM
#30
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It is possible to keep the LS1 style steam pipe with a LS6 intake. I did it on my old 2000 Trans am. It does require slight modification to the intake but will work. In order to make it work you have to grind down the ribs that are on the bottom side of the intake. I don't have any pics, but it does allow for the use of a factory 4to1 LS1 style steam pipe
04-25-2012, 09:38 AM
#38
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http://qa.dormanproducts.com/p-46687-788-031.aspx
Local parts stores such as _ _ _ _ zone, _ _ _ _ Value, or Advance _ _ _ _ should carry these for about $3.00 along with the standard 3/8" rubber fuel line (usually like $1.25 per foot or so). Don't forget hose clamps while you're there (like I did).
