kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

I thought you can clear dtc's with the aeroforce? If not then leave the battery unhooked overnight.
So you changed o2's on both sides or just the one? If your only throwing a o2 code on bank 2, then it's either the sensor or connector/wiring. Thats why I suggested to swap sides and see if the code stays on bank 2... if it does then you got a wiring problem.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Yes, I replaced both O2 sensors since they were both stockers with 161k miles on them. Figured why do one & not the other. I'm taking it to a buddies shop on lunch & he is gonna hook up to it & see whats goin on since I dont have the equipment & most the parts houses are being bitches about it for some reason.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

When you "blip" it you make the motor roll. That can
mess with intermittent electrical connections. I had a
fuel pump harness connector physically break doing
that (and I have poly motor mounts, so not that much
roll). You might get it up on ramps and have a look at
the wiring near the block / exhaust. My headers did a
pretty good job of cooking some wires near the starter
(coated headers, even).

An O2 sensor code often "pins" the affected sensor to
450mV. This will also be the result of an open wire.
If you reset all of the codes and it stays stuck then you
need to start physically inspecting the harness.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

See Jimmy thats whats weird as hell. When I replaced the O2 sensors I removed both aftermarket extensions since the 13111 have a longer harness & better heat shielding. I checked & all other wires around them looked good, no hot spots or wear marks on the wire coatings.

Also whats weird is on my interceptor gauge when I flip through the parameters it will monitor if I push the button once on bank 1 it will switch to the next parameter but bank 2 the first push reads a constant 450 but push it a second time & it doesnt change from bank 2, it shows readings similar to bank 1 which looks like everything is switching perfectly.

Also I tried the hard PCM reset last night by:

turning key to "on" position
removed PCM BAT & PCM IGN fuses
let car sit for 5 minutes at least maybe a few more
turned key "off"
replaced fuses
started car

the Service Engine Soon light in the upper right of the cluster was still illuminated like pulling the fuses didnt reset the PCM for some reason. I also pulled the ENG SEN fuse while I was pulling the others & it was in great condition. So were the PCM IGN & PCM BAT fuses.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Ok, took it to my buddy and he got the same codes & I believe after talkin for a minute I might have discovered something. When I swapped intakes one of my stock injectors on the driver side had the little hard plastic piece on the end of the injector break off. I did not have a way to fix it & had to get the car back together. I assumed it was only on there to keep the o-ring from getting stuck in the intake when removing the injectors. I'm thinkin this assumption could make an *** outta me. My buddy said its very possible that its allowing some air to get sucked in around the injector o-ring causing the misfires & lean condition. So since I have a extra stock set of injectors at work I"m gonna swap that one out. He also mentioned my plugs & asked what they are gapped to. I didnt double check them before install so again assumed buying pre-gapped plugs they would have the correct gap, maybe another turn me into a *** mistake. So I'm gonna pull them & check the gaps while I'm doin the injector.

Talk about make a guy feel stupid, this is all little things slightly overlooked or assumed to not be a issue. Kinda like a slap in the face for exactly why you double check everything & then check it again. So I'm gonna do those things & then he will delete the codes & we will see if they trip again. Now I'm off to search for optimal plug gap for my set-up, LOL.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Well Well Well, found a thread with the anwser I was looking for about the injector disc. Here is a link below. To anyone swapping injectors make sure you check the condition of these little plastic disc. I'm thinking a combination of this being broke off and old o-rings could be causing my issue.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...injectors.html

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Also decided I'm gonna try a set of NGK TR55 plugs. I have been against NGK since Ed convinced me they were inferior to the Autolites but I'm seeing way too many guys running the TR55 plugs without any issues at all.

I'm guessing leave the out of the box gap on them which I believe should be about .056-.058 although the Autolites come with a .040. With my mods in my sig running pump gas what should I do about the gap for best performance? I'll most likely order a set of GMS wires as well within the next 2 weeks..

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

if your compression is higher than 11:1 I would go with tr6's.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Well took the rail/injectors back off last night found 3 injectors with partially broken disc including one completely missing. So I replaced those & double checked my spark plug wires. Its better but something is still goin on.

My Aeroforce is showing both long trim sitting on 25 but the short trims are staying pretty close together bouncing around. When I got back from a decently long drive I was curious & let the car idle while I unplugged the MAF, not change at all. Idle dipped for a split second & then was just fine. I'm thinkin thats a sign the MAF could have took a dump. Time for some more research, LOL. Its getting closer though, it keeps running smoother & smoother. I can feel it pickin up power as well.

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

might want to take a peek at the wiring along the passenger side by the headers. with headers those wires melt all the time and will have you chasing annoying ses lights all the time. good luck

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

All wiring looks good & O2 sensors have been replaced along with the extensions removed. I'm finding out that several people have had issues with their MAF after using the spray cleaner. Last night I unplugged it while it was idling & nothing changed, it should have if the MAF was working properly. So I'm leaning toward a MAF failure & yes it is possible for the MAF to take a dump without a code. Seen many people have this exact thing happen.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Talked to a buddy again & he has a brand new 85mm MAF I can get from him cheap if I want if the MAF is the cause or the shop I went to yesterday has offered to hook me up with a Speed Density tune for a great price since I already have a HPtuner credit in my PCM from codes being deleted a few years back.

I'm gonna swing by there & lunch & see if a MAF swap fixes it, if so, I might save my money & just go SD and eliminate this problem from ever happening again.

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

Welcome back to NGKs

I would run the TR55s at .050

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

I agree unless his compression is over 11:1

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

I believe when we did all the math on my combo, then numbers put it right around 11:1 with the parts selection. I had basic Autolite plugs in for the past 3yrs without a single issue. I'm also thinkin if this MAF is the cause the plugs in there now will be just fine as well. So they might stay in there. I'm checkin the MAF theory today in a little bit.

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

maf could definately be a issue...although the only thing that makes wonder a bit is the fact your fuel trims are 25%. I had that problem on my lt1 car and was told over and over it was either a intake leak or exhaust leak... I think your on the right track, swap the maf,, if that don't fix it look for other possible intake/header leaks.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Checked the exhaust already & if there is a leak its not letting any soot out or making any noise. Everything looks clean. PCV crap is getting torn off as well, tired of those crap hoses getting holes in them.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Well here is the results...car doen't like MAF's at all anymore, LOL. It almost died in traffic on me on the way to the shop. Pulled over, unlugged MAF & car found its ***** again along with the long lost idle. Drove to shop & showed them what it was doin, seems kinda weird. So we try another MAF, still doin it. It runs & idles the best without a MAF now for some reason.

So Speed Density tune here I come.

MM98

iTrader: (13)

Was the second maf you tried an 85mm? If so, did they calibrate it for your car?

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Yes, it was a GM 85mm MAF. I figured when we tried it that it wouldnt be spot on but I have never seen one make a car basically die. Mine choked itself to the point of having to manually crack the TB open to keep it running. Even worse than it did with my MAF in there.

I'm just to the point that we have narrowed it to a MAF related problem. It'll be cheaper in the long run to go withthe SD tune than buying a new MAF & then paying for a MAF tune. So I'm just goin SD. I have done alot of reading about SD tunes recently and with this shop close enough to me if I ever need a tweak to it I can just stop in. From the work they have done so far though I believe the tune will be up to par. Its still gonna be somewhat safe since its my daily, I'm not gonna have them pull as much as possible out of the combo. No max effort here, I gave up on all that.