Oil Cooler and Temp Gauge Install
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From: Eagle River, Alaska
Oil Cooler and Temp Gauge Install My track has mandated engine diapers for cars going 9.99 and faster. So I have to get one. I drive my car (almost an hour each way) to and from the track because I don't own a car trailer. So that means I'd have to drive out and back with the diaper installed on the engine. Which in therory will cut off the air flowing over the pan and retaining the engine and oil heat and possibly allowing the oil temps to get too hot. Which could cause engine damage.
So I ordered a Lingenfelter adapter (on the right). Then I found a Mocal adapter (on the left) with a built in thermostat.
Then I ordered a autometer phantom oil temp gauge (electric), and a Derale cooler with built in fan. Since I was going to install this behind my transmission cooler I wanted to help draw cool air through both coolers. They are in the bumper where the license plate goes, so it's too far away for the radiator fans to do much good.
Here I removed the factory block above the oil filter. Make sure you have a catch pan under there because it will drain a decent amount of oil.
All 3 adapters out on the bench.
So I ordered a Lingenfelter adapter (on the right). Then I found a Mocal adapter (on the left) with a built in thermostat.
Then I ordered a autometer phantom oil temp gauge (electric), and a Derale cooler with built in fan. Since I was going to install this behind my transmission cooler I wanted to help draw cool air through both coolers. They are in the bumper where the license plate goes, so it's too far away for the radiator fans to do much good.
Here I removed the factory block above the oil filter. Make sure you have a catch pan under there because it will drain a decent amount of oil.
All 3 adapters out on the bench.
Last edited by Frozen WS6; May 2, 2011 at 10:51 PM.
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From: Eagle River, Alaska
Well after trying to fit the Mocal adapter in there. The fittings hit the block and the lower one was too low for me to be comfortable and was going to make changing the oil filter next to impossible.
So I went with the lingenfelter adapter. I have since moved the temp sensor from the bottom port to the front port but I had to get a m12x1.5 adapter to thread it in. because they tapped it to fit the stock temp sensors.
But I still wanted to run a Thermostat because in the spring and fall the air temps are in the low 40's. So at those temps the oil won't even need to run through a cooler.
So I bought the Mocal inline oil cooler thermostat.
It's a close fit but there's enough room.
Here's a test fit of the lingenfelter adapter.
Here I was getting the -8 lines in the correct positions so they weren't touching the headers or any moving parts. The blue wire is the sender wire for my oil temp gauge.
So I went with the lingenfelter adapter. I have since moved the temp sensor from the bottom port to the front port but I had to get a m12x1.5 adapter to thread it in. because they tapped it to fit the stock temp sensors.
But I still wanted to run a Thermostat because in the spring and fall the air temps are in the low 40's. So at those temps the oil won't even need to run through a cooler.
So I bought the Mocal inline oil cooler thermostat.
It's a close fit but there's enough room.
Here's a test fit of the lingenfelter adapter.
Here I was getting the -8 lines in the correct positions so they weren't touching the headers or any moving parts. The blue wire is the sender wire for my oil temp gauge.
Last edited by Frozen WS6; May 2, 2011 at 10:52 PM.
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From: Eagle River, Alaska
Here are a couple more pics of it installed.
Looking up from the bottom.
Looking back from the front.
The Mocal inline thermostat installed. The bracket that came with it was pretty weak so I bent up another one to fit over there's and it worked great.
The cooler installed in the bumper. I have my bumper support out so I believe that is the only way to beable to mount it here. I mounted it behind my transmission cooler and the fan draws air through both coolers.
The reason the oil filter looks old or used. Brake cleaner was a good friend of mine (be sure to only spray it after everything has been installed or spray it on to a rag and wipe an area clean. You DO NOT want to get any of it in the oil). After the original install, I went for a test drive and had leaks. So I had to remove everything and reinstall it all.
I finally went for another test drive yesterday. 70 miles round trip through both city and short highway. It stayed at about 225 the whole time very consistant and no more leaks. Now it's time to order my engine diaper and see what happens.
It was a pain to fit my hands without removing anything from the engine to make extra room.
Looking up from the bottom.
Looking back from the front.
The Mocal inline thermostat installed. The bracket that came with it was pretty weak so I bent up another one to fit over there's and it worked great.
The cooler installed in the bumper. I have my bumper support out so I believe that is the only way to beable to mount it here. I mounted it behind my transmission cooler and the fan draws air through both coolers.
The reason the oil filter looks old or used. Brake cleaner was a good friend of mine (be sure to only spray it after everything has been installed or spray it on to a rag and wipe an area clean. You DO NOT want to get any of it in the oil). After the original install, I went for a test drive and had leaks. So I had to remove everything and reinstall it all.
I finally went for another test drive yesterday. 70 miles round trip through both city and short highway. It stayed at about 225 the whole time very consistant and no more leaks. Now it's time to order my engine diaper and see what happens.
It was a pain to fit my hands without removing anything from the engine to make extra room.
Last edited by Frozen WS6; May 2, 2011 at 10:53 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Eagle River, Alaska
It was hard to get clear pics of some of the things. There is atleast a 1/4 inch between the sender, line, and the headers. So I don't think it should. But I'm going to get some heat wrap to cover the wire with.
The mocal adapter with built in thermostat may fit with different fittings on it. But I don't have the resources up here to mess with it locally. So It's just a expensive paper weight.
The mocal adapter with built in thermostat may fit with different fittings on it. But I don't have the resources up here to mess with it locally. So It's just a expensive paper weight.
Last edited by Frozen WS6; May 2, 2011 at 10:55 PM.
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9 Second Club
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From: Eagle River, Alaska
Nice work. I've had a cooler for several years now. B &M with a fan and a modified truck cooler adaptor. I only have a T stat on the fan. The oil does run a little cool during our couple weeks of winter. These cars run hot they should of had one from the factory. The truck adaptor keeps the lines nice and close to the block.
Thread Starter
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From: Eagle River, Alaska
Nice work. I've had a cooler for several years now. B &M with a fan and a modified truck cooler adaptor. I only have a T stat on the fan. The oil does run a little cool during our couple weeks of winter. These cars run hot they should of had one from the factory. The truck adaptor keeps the lines nice and close to the block.
I was considering using a Mocal sandwich adapter, but didn't want the filter hanging below the pan. I hoped the Mocal block adapter would fit until I read your review. I've read I should use no less than -10AN lines though. I have ARH 1.75" headers, what do you have?
What do you mean about the modified truck cooler? Is the modification adding the tstat? I found this thread, but he also used -8AN:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...il-cooler.html
What do you mean about the modified truck cooler? Is the modification adding the tstat? I found this thread, but he also used -8AN:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...il-cooler.html
Last edited by JimMueller; May 14, 2011 at 09:02 PM.
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From: Eagle River, Alaska
In all of my research (I spent all winter looking into this) I couldn't find any info on line size. The coolers with fans I found had -8 ends hardlined on them, so even if I fed it with -10 it would still get reduced with the cooler its self and it was Mocal that gave me the option to run -8 or -10. The Factory oil cooler setup on my truck (2500 hd) is only a -8 size also. If I was road racing or something like that I would go -10 no question. But up here our air temps are mostly in the 60 to 70's and I drag race and the only time I'll have the engine diaper on is if I'm heading out to the track.
Mocal does Alot of boat setups. Boats are built to run upper rpms ALL day and they don't have any issues. The last place you'd want to have a engine failure is 50 miles out in the ocean.
My headers are kooks 1 7/8 stepped to 2 w/ 3.5 collectors.
In my research I had found some guys that had used the truck sandwich adapter, which I don't believe has a thermostat in it. There wasn't any talk about modifying them so maybe 1lejohn could chime in on that.
Mocal does Alot of boat setups. Boats are built to run upper rpms ALL day and they don't have any issues. The last place you'd want to have a engine failure is 50 miles out in the ocean.
My headers are kooks 1 7/8 stepped to 2 w/ 3.5 collectors.
In my research I had found some guys that had used the truck sandwich adapter, which I don't believe has a thermostat in it. There wasn't any talk about modifying them so maybe 1lejohn could chime in on that.
Thread Starter
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From: Eagle River, Alaska
Lol. It's almost impossible to get these in the correct size let a lone a better one. I'd have to order them from the lower 48 and pay rediculous freight charges (anywhere from $40 on up in freight alone). And as much as I change the oil and filter that will get expensive fast.
As I would imagine GM trucks are popular in Alaska, have you considered a truck filter? It's slightly longer. I run a truck length filter, my car is lowered and the roads here in NYC are ridiculously bad yet it's never been hit.
Thread Starter
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From: Eagle River, Alaska
This is pretty much a truck state for sure (8 months of winter). I've thought about it but it's slammed. The headers have drug changing lanes before. We have trenches on our roads. So I don't want anything lower then the headers.
I've heard you guys have pot holes large enough to swallow cars. lol
I've heard you guys have pot holes large enough to swallow cars. lol
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2011
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My track has mandated engine diapers for cars going 9.99 and faster. So I have to get one. I drive my car (almost an hour each way) to and from the track because I don't own a car trailer. So that means I'd have to drive out and back with the diaper installed on the engine. Which in therory will cut off the air flowing over the pan and retaining the engine and oil heat and possibly allowing the oil temps to get too hot. Which could cause engine damage.
So I ordered a Lingenfelter adapter (on the right). Then I found a Mocal adapter (on the left) with a built in thermostat.
Then I ordered a autometer phantom oil temp gauge (electric), and a Derale cooler with built in fan. Since I was going to install this behind my transmission cooler I wanted to help draw cool air through both coolers. They are in the bumper where the license plate goes, so it's too far away for the radiator fans to do much good.
Here I removed the factory block above the oil filter. Make sure you have a catch pan under there because it will drain a decent amount of oil.
All 3 adapters out on the bench.
So I ordered a Lingenfelter adapter (on the right). Then I found a Mocal adapter (on the left) with a built in thermostat.
Then I ordered a autometer phantom oil temp gauge (electric), and a Derale cooler with built in fan. Since I was going to install this behind my transmission cooler I wanted to help draw cool air through both coolers. They are in the bumper where the license plate goes, so it's too far away for the radiator fans to do much good.
Here I removed the factory block above the oil filter. Make sure you have a catch pan under there because it will drain a decent amount of oil.
All 3 adapters out on the bench.