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LT Header Guys!!! No more extensions or corvette o2s!

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Old 11-30-2012, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by LilJayV10

I know that 02's switch slower in headers but I didn't know if it was because of the....long *** wire going to the sensor.
Even with the "delicate" signal generated by the sensors, you will have a difficult time convincing me the wire length is the issue. Keep in mind electrical signals travel at near the speed of light. (depending on a few factors) A couple of feet of extra wire is not going to make one bit of difference in the speed the ECM receives the signal.

The heat factor is very real though.
Old 11-30-2012, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by OldCobraGuy
The heat factor is very real though
Some of the older systems use non-heated O2's?
Old 12-01-2012, 09:30 AM
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Yes...very true. In fact, I believe Ford was the first to use heated O2 sensors here domestically. Here's why you heat the sensors: The vehicle cannot go into closed loop until the O2 sensors are fully operational. When we first started seeing these computer controlled systems, emission requirements were no where near as strict. So it was very common to see cars stay in open loop for several minutes until the exhaust could heat the sensor enough to flip the car into closed loop. But the computer has so little control over emissions in open loop that federal regs forced the manufacturers to get vehicles into closed loop as soon as possible. Hence the use of heated sensors. You can now get cars into closed loop darn near immediately after close start up! What is just as critical these days is getting the cats up to temp. They too need to be at a certain temp to operate correctly. A lot of work has gone into the materials and placement of the cats to get them operating as soon as possible.

By the way, the placement of the sensor in the exhaust is extremely critical to proper operation. That's why any time an aftermarket manufacturer moves the O2 sensor from the factory location, it really makes it difficult to receive a CARB approval.
Old 06-04-2013, 01:27 AM
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Bringing this one back!! This is an awesome "cheat code"! It's simple to do, and when you go to plug the O2 sensors in it's like the rear harnesses were made for this. Mad props to the OP fro coming up with this!!
Old 06-04-2013, 06:46 PM
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this is great information, good write up and pics as well
Old 06-04-2013, 07:40 PM
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U guys no if this is posible on an lt1
Old 06-04-2013, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by cdenu95z28
U guys no if this is posible on an lt1
I'm sure it's possible, but the pinouts will be at different places. You will have to find a wiring diagram for an LT1 car.
Old 06-05-2013, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Golf&GM
Everything looks good but one thing I'd add is that if you have a '98 f-body you're pins are going to be different. I put differences below:

1999 or Newer
25+26
28+29
65+66
68+69

1998
1+5
2+6
46+41
42+47

Here's a link to pcm pinouts:

'99 pin out
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/torques/99pinpcm.htm

'98 pin out
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/torques/98pinpcm.htm
Thank you smarties!
Old 06-05-2013, 03:18 AM
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So when you switch the Pinouts to read the front sensors with the rear harness, do you still have to delete the rears in a tune to get rid of the SES? I read through the pages but if I overlooked it I apologize.

Awesome write up and thank you very much man! This will save a ton of money for people. And thanks to whoever brought this thread back from the dead.
Old 06-06-2013, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by KissMyTushZ28
So when you switch the Pinouts to read the front sensors with the rear harness, do you still have to delete the rears in a tune to get rid of the SES? I read through the pages but if I overlooked it I apologize.

Awesome write up and thank you very much man! This will save a ton of money for people. And thanks to whoever brought this thread back from the dead.
Yes you will still have to have the rears tuned out. The signals are still there, they are just going to the front harness instead. I have also found that if you rip the wires out if the plugs on the rear sensors, they make great "dust caps" for the now empty front connectors. And your welcome for bringing this back from the dead!
Old 06-06-2013, 12:16 AM
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Sweet! Thanks for the tips!
Old 06-28-2013, 10:35 PM
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Interesting. I have been searching the forum on lt install for a while and just now ran across this thread. Saved me $100 on new o2 sensors.

I do have a question though. Are the front o2 sensors different than the rear o2 sensors? I plan on having Frost tune out the rear o2 sensors and was wondering if I could hold onto them as spares for the fronts.
Old 06-29-2013, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by reinhardt02
Interesting. I have been searching the forum on lt install for a while and just now ran across this thread. Saved me $100 on new o2 sensors.

I do have a question though. Are the front o2 sensors different than the rear o2 sensors? I plan on having Frost tune out the rear o2 sensors and was wondering if I could hold onto them as spares for the fronts.
I'm pretty sure they are different.
Old 06-29-2013, 07:15 AM
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Another question. I am a little unclear on the pins to swap. When you say 25+26, you mean swap those two pins right?
Old 06-29-2013, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by LoneGunman
I'm pretty sure they are different.
Only the cable length.
Old 06-29-2013, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Vexzer
Only the cable length.
That's the whole point of this thread.
Old 06-29-2013, 04:37 PM
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So the front and rear o2 sensors themselves (not the harness) are the same except different length cable?
Old 07-01-2013, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by reinhardt02
So the front and rear o2 sensors themselves (not the harness) are the same except different length cable?
Yep...
Old 08-21-2013, 01:02 PM
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I just used this write up, great information! For some reason, the worst part for me was getting that grey cover off. Not really sure why it was so stuck on there, but this write up made the whole ordeal very easy! Now I have o2 simulators and extensions for sale... lol!
Old 09-05-2013, 01:22 PM
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