I was going to go with the ASP is it worth getting there altnator pulley also? 
Help choosing underdrive pulley
Help choosing underdrive pulley Just wondering what everyone's experiences are with these options, first I have been told the 25% will make lights and stereo dim? Then whats better, a solid pulley like ASP sells or a fluid dampner like speed inc sells?
ASP.
Power bonds are heavier than the stock pulley. I don't really see the point in attempt to reduce accessory drag, while adding rotating mass at the same time.
ASP pulleys are lighter, and you can start the threads on a stock bolt to begin seating it. Power bonds are heavy and require a crank pulley install tool to get them started.
Power bonds are heavier than the stock pulley. I don't really see the point in attempt to reduce accessory drag, while adding rotating mass at the same time.
ASP pulleys are lighter, and you can start the threads on a stock bolt to begin seating it. Power bonds are heavy and require a crank pulley install tool to get them started.
ASP.
Power bonds are heavier than the stock pulley. I don't really see the point in attempt to reduce accessory drag, while adding rotating mass at the same time.
ASP pulleys are lighter, and you can start the threads on a stock bolt to begin seating it. Power bonds are heavy and require a crank pulley install tool to get them started.
Power bonds are heavier than the stock pulley. I don't really see the point in attempt to reduce accessory drag, while adding rotating mass at the same time.
ASP pulleys are lighter, and you can start the threads on a stock bolt to begin seating it. Power bonds are heavy and require a crank pulley install tool to get them started.
ASP.
Power bonds are heavier than the stock pulley. I don't really see the point in attempt to reduce accessory drag, while adding rotating mass at the same time.
ASP pulleys are lighter, and you can start the threads on a stock bolt to begin seating it. Power bonds are heavy and require a crank pulley install tool to get them started.
Power bonds are heavier than the stock pulley. I don't really see the point in attempt to reduce accessory drag, while adding rotating mass at the same time.
ASP pulleys are lighter, and you can start the threads on a stock bolt to begin seating it. Power bonds are heavy and require a crank pulley install tool to get them started.
i did not know power bonds are heavier than stock.
im glad i went with an ASP.
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The "fluid" type dampener will control harmonics better. Yes, heavier but, the weight is concentrated to the center of pulley. The reduction in the diameter is where the power is picked up(moment of inertia). An engine dyno most likely couldn't see any power difference. We're talking 4-5 lbs difference between the two types. If you find a good deal on any, just grab it. Just sayin'
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Weren't your precious ASPs coming apart at the hub on some occasions? 
Their new design is SFI approved, comes with certificate, and doesn't come apart (I've installed probably 50+ since redesign).
The powerbond is a nice piece and has timing marks which is cool too if you actually use them. However I don't see the point in trying to reduce drag, when you increase weight on the crank at the same time. They cancel each other out.
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
I got ya Josh, but lets look at things realistically. What you are arguing is spinning drag. So lets talk about that. All 3 that we are discussing that I know of are 2 piece designs. Meaning: 1 piece hub (what goes on the crank), 1 outer piece (where the belt rides) and the 2 pieces are connected by a ring of bonded elastomer (rubber basically). The problem at least originally with the ASP units was that (for weight reduction reasons) the inner hub piece was aluminum. This apparently caused some separation issues as the units aged. The stock unit is some kind of cast iron or steel and the powerbond unit is all steel. The Powerbond unit has raised steel beveled edges to help keep the belt from throwing. I think possibly the stocker is around 12-14 pounds, Powerbond is near the same, and ASP is about 10 pounds or so (all estimates). So, ASP managed to eliminate weight in the most unfavorable place, the closest spinning area to the crank snout. This would not be as beneficial as making the outer ring in aluminum. But, there has to be a reason why they didn't make the entire unit in aluminum...not stable enough, not strong enough, manufacturing costs etc. As an example of the spinning weight savings of a hub made of aluminum try swinging a 5 pound weight on a 3 foot string, then try it on a 1 foot string. On the shorter string you are actually moving the weight less distance therefor requiring less energy. The actual point of an underdrive pulley is to spin the accs slower and thats where the power/throttle response is gained. Adding 2 spinning pounds 1 inch from the cranks centerline is irrelevant in this case 
Well, that just solidified my decision.
01ssreda4, you no longer reserve the right to call MY alliterations silly
(see my LS6 TB transition plate thread)
Seriously though, that's a great explanation anyone should be able to understand. I too have read and heard of the ASP's problem at throwing belts. I take it that's an N/A problem too, or just the FI guys?
01ssreda4, you no longer reserve the right to call MY alliterations silly
(see my LS6 TB transition plate thread)Seriously though, that's a great explanation anyone should be able to understand. I too have read and heard of the ASP's problem at throwing belts. I take it that's an N/A problem too, or just the FI guys?
