How did you attach the screen to the MAF?

 

Well, here is the update. I went for a long cruise today, and the SES light came on again, and then the car started to die out again.
I haven't scanned it to verify it is the code for the MAF, but im 99% sure it is. I got a question. Does the tune need to be adjusted after the screen?
Or is it really possible that I have a bad sensor?

When I was reading how others did it, they "press" it in and said its a tight fit. When I tried that it seemed like wasn't tight enough, like it would almost slide back and forth.
So what I did is I lightly bent some of the fins at the edge, to create a little ridge. That ridge stops it from getting pushed any further..

 

Flow straightener will give a stable flow across the full diameter of a pipe. It will not make the air travel faster or slower (LOL) but, it will make it smooth. As the air moves through the pipe and there is a curve, the flow will move to the side of the pipe. It takes about 10 diameters of the pipe to straight out again. If the flow is more at the side of the pipe it will be missed by the MAF. That is why you get the code. That is why clocking will some times fix the problem. I the first thing I would do is clock the MAF. Probably will not work but it is free. Next thing I would do is turn off the fault. Make sure you log your A/F ratio. If that is good then you will just have to keep an eye out so if the MAF goes bad you will know it.

 

My TSP MAF threw a code for high input. I took it out and made a pull in it and it was still running really good so I took it and had the code reset and drove it for a while longer both hard and easy and it has not came back on yet. If your from Chicago I would feel fairly comfortable saying we had out cars tuned at the same place

 

How you just described the air going to one side of the pipe actually makes alot of sense, now I actually understand it.hmm I wasn't aware the fault can be removed. Thats what I may have them do. Or maybe ask them to clock the MAF a little and see if they could get better readings. I know when I tryed clocking it to the 11 o clock position it made it ALOT worse, to the point the car kept dying out even at idle. I have to take the car in to emmisions testing in Aug so it has to be fixed asap.

Yup, and he is a real good tuner, so thats why I am not blaiming the issue on him. If it was some Joe Smoe tuner that just learned how to use HP tuners I would be the first person to point the finger at the tune.

 

Is yours still running bad? Mine is attached to the lid and in about 3 o clock position

 

Yea mine is in the 3 o clock position at well. If I reset the SES code it drives good. Then once the SES code for the MAF lights up it starts dying agian. Yesterday I had a couple of hours of driving before the SES code illuminated.

 

Just remember as you make the intake pipe bigger the less air will be flowing at any point in the pipe. Then if there a bend and the air does not hit the MAF element that is why you get the fault. The fault is for low output from the MAF ie low air flow. In your case you did this with a bigger pipe. Turning the fault off is a click of the mouse for a tuner. I try not to tune them off unless I know why they don't work. In your case the fault is more trouble than it is worth.

 

like i said before i had mine at the 3 oclock position and it was terrible, and i got code only a mile after i would drive, then i tried the 11 position and code never came back and reading was much more stable, you said you tried it and it was worst, it proves that the air flow is not even inside your maf, did you try another position? i had spent weeks testing wires, connectors maf, tune, etc... until i figured this out. only after did i started to find posts about the air flow and maf problemes.

 

I didn't try any other positions. If I do clock the MAF to a different position does the tune need to be adjusted as well?

Well here is an update. I ordered a scan tool and it just came in . Turns out the car is no longer throwing the code for MAF because the tuner already removed the fault from it, but I was't aware. What did show up is a VSS code, P0500. Could a faulty speed sensor cause the car to die out? I wouldn't think so unless it was a SD tune, but what do you guys think?

 

So I repaired the VSS issue and so far the car drives amazing. It hasn't stalled on me since. The tuner said that without a VSS inputthe car die out as there are many idle tables that reference vehicle speed.

 

^ interesting..

 

So if mine comes back on for that should I just ignore the light until I can get it back to the tuner to have it removed?

 

So the general consensus is that if one gets a 100mm TSP maf to use that honeycomb airflow straightener right from the get go? Am I thinking correctly here?

 

That's what I did. No issues and easy to tune.

 

+1. Installed the MAF without the honeycomb and got the MAF code about 50 mi after the tune. Installed the screen and haven't seen it since.

 

great.. thanks guys!

 

i was thinking of getting one instead of just going speed den as i heared that without a maf when the temp changes that it requires a retune/so the mass air has issues hu?

 

is the lpe 100mm maf any better than the tsp 100mm maf or are they both the same thing

 

they appear to be very similar, 100mm tube with a cartridge style MAF slotted in. i havent seen them personally but just my assessment from the pics and info.