TSP 100mm MAF issues..keeps throwing code
Well, here is the update. I went for a long cruise today, and the SES light came on again, and then the car started to die out again. 
I haven't scanned it to verify it is the code for the MAF, but im 99% sure it is. I got a question. Does the tune need to be adjusted after the screen?
Or is it really possible that I have a bad sensor?
When I was reading how others did it, they "press" it in and said its a tight fit. When I tried that it seemed like wasn't tight enough, like it would almost slide back and forth.
So what I did is I lightly bent some of the fins at the edge, to create a little ridge. That ridge stops it from getting pushed any further..
I haven't scanned it to verify it is the code for the MAF, but im 99% sure it is. I got a question. Does the tune need to be adjusted after the screen?
Or is it really possible that I have a bad sensor?
How did you attach the screen to the MAF?
So what I did is I lightly bent some of the fins at the edge, to create a little ridge. That ridge stops it from getting pushed any further..
Flow straightener will give a stable flow across the full diameter of a pipe. It will not make the air travel faster or slower (LOL) but, it will make it smooth. As the air moves through the pipe and there is a curve, the flow will move to the side of the pipe. It takes about 10 diameters of the pipe to straight out again. If the flow is more at the side of the pipe it will be missed by the MAF. That is why you get the code. That is why clocking will some times fix the problem. I the first thing I would do is clock the MAF. Probably will not work but it is free. Next thing I would do is turn off the fault. Make sure you log your A/F ratio. If that is good then you will just have to keep an eye out so if the MAF goes bad you will know it.
My TSP MAF threw a code for high input. I took it out and made a pull in it and it was still running really good so I took it and had the code reset and drove it for a while longer both hard and easy and it has not came back on yet. If your from Chicago I would feel fairly comfortable saying we had out cars tuned at the same place
Next thing I would do is turn off the fault.
If your from Chicago I would feel fairly comfortable saying we had out cars tuned at the same place
Yea mine is in the 3 o clock position at well. If I reset the SES code it drives good. Then once the SES code for the MAF lights up it starts dying agian. Yesterday I had a couple of hours of driving before the SES code illuminated.
Just remember as you make the intake pipe bigger the less air will be flowing at any point in the pipe. Then if there a bend and the air does not hit the MAF element that is why you get the fault. The fault is for low output from the MAF ie low air flow. In your case you did this with a bigger pipe. Turning the fault off is a click of the mouse for a tuner. I try not to tune them off unless I know why they don't work. In your case the fault is more trouble than it is worth.
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 389
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From: NB Canada
like i said before i had mine at the 3 oclock position and it was terrible, and i got code only a mile after i would drive, then i tried the 11 position and code never came back and reading was much more stable, you said you tried it and it was worst, it proves that the air flow is not even inside your maf, did you try another position? i had spent weeks testing wires, connectors maf, tune, etc... until i figured this out. only after did i started to find posts about the air flow and maf problemes.
had mine at the 3 oclock position and it was terrible, and i got code only a mile after i would drive, then i tried the 11 position and code never came back and reading was much more stable, you said you tried it and it was worst, it proves that the air flow is not even inside your maf, did you try another position?
Well here is an update. I ordered a scan tool and it just came in . Turns out the car is no longer throwing the code for MAF because the tuner already removed the fault from it, but I was't aware. What did show up is a VSS code, P0500. Could a faulty speed sensor cause the car to die out? I wouldn't think so unless it was a SD tune, but what do you guys think?
So I repaired the VSS issue and so far the car drives amazing. It hasn't stalled on me since. The tuner said that without a VSS inputthe car die out as there are many idle tables that reference vehicle speed.
