Ls6 intake install
Depends on your mechanical aptitude. The article is quite detailed. That will help people with a walk through. But it's honestly not that bad. Just be careful of the oil pressure sending unit on the back of the intake. The brake booster line is between it. When the intake is loose, DON'T pull it forward. Rotating the back of the intake toward the pass side is the better way to do it, IMO.
And try not to use a chisel on the bottom of the intake. One guy here actually cracked the shell of his intake. If you need to get rid of the ribs, use a dremel.
And try not to use a chisel on the bottom of the intake. One guy here actually cracked the shell of his intake. If you need to get rid of the ribs, use a dremel.
Last edited by bayer-z28; Jul 25, 2011 at 07:37 PM.
Don't buy them from the dealership. You can get them at Autozone/ Kragen ect... for around $20-$25. They may have them at the store. If they do have to order them it should only be a day or two if that and it won't cost you anymore.
Your local auto parts store should have them or should be able to get the gaskets.
The steam vents is what the coolant crossover pipe and rear plugs connect to. You will need the one coolant crossover for the front steam vents and the two plugs for the rear. Or you can add another front crossover pipe to the rear, I did.
But if you have a 2004 style LS1, I assume your motor already has the front coolant crossover pipe and the two rear plugs, not the 1997-2000 X style coolant pipe that ran under the intake manifold and connected the front and back steam vents all together.
The steam vents is what the coolant crossover pipe and rear plugs connect to. You will need the one coolant crossover for the front steam vents and the two plugs for the rear. Or you can add another front crossover pipe to the rear, I did.
But if you have a 2004 style LS1, I assume your motor already has the front coolant crossover pipe and the two rear plugs, not the 1997-2000 X style coolant pipe that ran under the intake manifold and connected the front and back steam vents all together.
Last edited by R6cowboy; Jul 25, 2011 at 09:18 PM.
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pm me pic and price
and to recap
remove all bolts and fuel rails, twist at an angle towards the driver side and disconnect the OPSU and Brake Booster Line on the back asap. remove slowly and check to see everything is disconnected.
buy a gasket kit from orileys (DOES ANyONE HAVE A PART#?) and replace gaskets along with the front (which i think it has one) and the thottle cable clip.
i have the cross over coolant kit and ill be purchasing the rear plugs JIC snap on the fuel raisl, connect the OPSU and Brake Bookster but be careful not to snap it off ... and line up the rear 4 bolts which are held in place by tape even with the bottom of the intake...after in place and not pinching any wires, thread by hand and look at ls1howto.com for the tightening pattern.
i need to get a torque wrench so i know how much and not over/under torque them
did i miss anything?
and to recap
remove all bolts and fuel rails, twist at an angle towards the driver side and disconnect the OPSU and Brake Booster Line on the back asap. remove slowly and check to see everything is disconnected.
buy a gasket kit from orileys (DOES ANyONE HAVE A PART#?) and replace gaskets along with the front (which i think it has one) and the thottle cable clip.
i have the cross over coolant kit and ill be purchasing the rear plugs JIC snap on the fuel raisl, connect the OPSU and Brake Bookster but be careful not to snap it off ... and line up the rear 4 bolts which are held in place by tape even with the bottom of the intake...after in place and not pinching any wires, thread by hand and look at ls1howto.com for the tightening pattern.
i need to get a torque wrench so i know how much and not over/under torque them
did i miss anything?
One trick that helps GREATLY that is not talked about in that link.....when you put the intake back on they say to put the 4 back bolts in, then HOLD them all UP as you put the intake into place. YEA, RIGHT.
Put those 4 back bolts in, lift them up so they are not sticking out of the bottom at all, make them even on the bottom. Just before they stick out. Then take a 2 inch long piece of masking tape and tape each of the bolts in place on the top.
Then you can effortlessly slide the intake into place, then down into position. Then one at a time...take the tape off each bolt and drop it into place and thread them in by hand at first. Then you can drop all the other bolts in and tighten them all down.
.
Put those 4 back bolts in, lift them up so they are not sticking out of the bottom at all, make them even on the bottom. Just before they stick out. Then take a 2 inch long piece of masking tape and tape each of the bolts in place on the top.
Then you can effortlessly slide the intake into place, then down into position. Then one at a time...take the tape off each bolt and drop it into place and thread them in by hand at first. Then you can drop all the other bolts in and tighten them all down.
.
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how do you disconnect the line on the driver side of the intake near the TB but on the intake (not the coolant line on the passenger side)
and how do i disconnect the brake booster. it feel like im getting ready to rip it out completely
and how do i disconnect the brake booster. it feel like im getting ready to rip it out completely
Last edited by BashamWS6; Jul 28, 2011 at 06:58 PM.
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also i know theres a pattern to tighten the intake back on...but can i tighten it by hand to a nice snugg?
or do i need the exact 89 ft lbs oh however much it is
or do i need the exact 89 ft lbs oh however much it is
Once you use pliars to remove the clip holding the big hose to the brake booster you should be able to get your hand on the hose and turn it back and forth to loosen it up and start pulling it away from the brake booster.
It's been so long I don't know what line you are talking about getting disconnected. LS1howto.com should answer all your questions.
Don't just tighten the intake by hand. You need to get a toque wrench and follow the pattern.
It's been so long I don't know what line you are talking about getting disconnected. LS1howto.com should answer all your questions.
Don't just tighten the intake by hand. You need to get a toque wrench and follow the pattern.
you wont know the condition of the knock sensors til you pull the intake.......the wells get full of water and they rust out..the ends of the KS wiring corrode from the water...have new on hand BEFORE you pull to save time......same with the OPSU.....unless you have time to find bad parts and wait to get them........you shave the ribs off the intake to accommodate the stock LS1 steam tube.....or you can use the LS6 steam tube......i used 2 LS6 steam tubes.....the rear tube i crimped the outlet and soldered it shut........i did NOT use block offs
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Well i finished it last night too about 4 hrs excluding breaks.
I did not remove the fuel rails from the car. And i did not disconnect the traction control box.
And the only hard part was Getting the intake out from under the injectors which got caught several times and getting the back four injectors reconnected. Over all...two sore legs, a blister on the palm and a burn on my forearm from the block.
It stopped the vacuum leak i had but i dont feel any difference except it pulls harder at higher rates of speed.
Should expect about 25+ mpg now and i should be around 330-335rwhp
I did not remove the fuel rails from the car. And i did not disconnect the traction control box.
And the only hard part was Getting the intake out from under the injectors which got caught several times and getting the back four injectors reconnected. Over all...two sore legs, a blister on the palm and a burn on my forearm from the block.
It stopped the vacuum leak i had but i dont feel any difference except it pulls harder at higher rates of speed.
Should expect about 25+ mpg now and i should be around 330-335rwhp
Knock sensors are like atomic waste...they have an unlimited life span...mine are 11 years old with 236,000+ miles on them and still running perfect. You do not need to even touch the knock sensors doing an intake swap...keep it simple and you will do it faster and spend less money...too many people on here try and make themselves feel good by thowing unnessary $$ at their cars all the time...no phuchin need for it.
I'll for sure be swapping knock sensors because there's a little code telling me I should. If it looks like you're got water near them, go ahead and swap them. If they're high and dry, I'd let it go unless you're getting a code.
