ws6outlaw

I have a 98 t/a stock height with lt's with no cats with an xpipe dumped before the back axle. Only problem is getting an inspection is getting tougher bc in texas the exhaust must run out from under the car and it has to have cats. Ok no problem I ordered 2 high flow cats and tips and go to the local muffler shops but everyone says I can't run true duals out the back unless its under the axle and I absolutely won't do that. So my question is is it possible to run true duals over axle and out of the back? Can I dop some wire modifications on the left side axle and run pipe over that side? The only think I could get the shops to agree to was to put both cats on and right before the axle and merge them into 1 3" pipe over the axle and split if off again out to the bumper. Will this still sound and flow well?

RARON455

iTrader: (35)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/southern-...brock-lts.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...over-axle.html

There are kits that go over the axle its tight, but I have seen them and they are nice, but expensive. Also, I have passed two years inspection, with no cats, they never look under my car, just plug into the OBD port and it passes. Last year he asked me if it had HIGH flow cats on it, I kinda laughed and said yeah, then he laughed, HE knew.

ws6outlaw

any ideas where i can buy these kits or who can do it in texas. i primarily in the east tx area and austin area...i go to college down there. i'd love to have this done and wouldn't mind saving up for it.

also any thoughts about running true duals to the axle then a 3" merge and splitting after the axle...how much power would i lose will it sound good? do i even have to worry about it? i'm pushing 400 hp but my goal is closer to 500.

PheonixLS1

iTrader: (4)

Just asking, buy why are you so adament about not going under the axle and out? My setup is under the axle and out and I have no issues. Just,wonderin......

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

Because going under the axle is brazenly stupid

Jack your car up, it hits. Change the shocks, it hits. If you lowered your car and go over a hill, it hits the axle or ground

You're limited to cram the exhaust between the distance from bottom of the axle tubes to the ground. You'll notice this is MUCH smaller than the distance your axle will articulate with normal driving and maintenance

PheonixLS1

iTrader: (4)

Ok, first off ******* thanks for pretty much calling me stupid. Second, I have jacked my car up and it barely touches the axle and the OP said he was stock height and I think the OP is who I asked about it not you. If he has no plans to lower then what's the issue. I have never scrapped and IF it keeps the axle from fully unloading when jacked up just unscrew the exhaust hangers in the rear and , WOW imagine that, the exhaust will drop a litte and the axle will unload fully.

idle

iTrader: (5)

Such hostility... I see the OP's problem with under-the-axle. Over is just a much cleaner, more professional look than under. Also, maybe he wants to hide his exhaust for aesthetics? I admire his attempt at trying to do it right than just doing it.

ws6outlaw

everybody cool down lol. i have a couple of reasons for not wanting to go under the axle..i've seen the rear view of many cars with under the axle setups and i just don't like the look...granted i've seen it done very well but i'd rather have the look of an over the axle setup and second i want to be able to drop the rear end more easily. i'm gonna put a 9" in it and i'd rather have it out of the way when i do. it just seems to be a cleaner setup the only problem is i might have to settle on performance.

does anybody have any opinions on the setup the muffler shop wants to do?
just to remind everyone this will what it will be after he's done
lt's run to x pipe..running into 2 3" high flow cats all the way to the back axle and then merging into 1 3" pipe then splitting off again into 2 3" or 2 1/2" out to TSP rumblers and out to the bumper with tips.
to me this is basically like a ORY on steroids lol. i was just wondering if anyone has done this and how it flows and sounds. thanks

or
if anyone can help me run 2 3" over the axle let me know
thanks guys

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

You can mount the cats right before the axle but they wont last long. Cats need to heat up to X temp before they work properly. Aftermarket high flow cats dont really catalyze much of anything so this isnt a big deal, the sniffer will pick it up assuming you do more than visual. Necking down to 3" for the over the axle section shouldnt block the system too bad since exhaust gasses cool and contract further down stream. If it bothers you, get some ovalized tubing. Cant comment on sound

Lots of people have crammed duals and even 4" over the axle with minor mods if anything. If the exhaust shops says you HAVE to run something like 3" then you should just find another willing to think a little

ws6outlaw

thanks for the input pocket. all good points. the owner of the muffler shop did have that "i'm not really gonna try very hard" attitude. i like the ovalized tubing idea. that would cut down on overall height of the tubing. i might just wait until i get down to austin and get it done there. i'm sure the big city will have a lot more guys willing to do it. i was also told there are kits for true duals going over the axle that i could buy. i was interested in this also. anyone have any idea about this?

DaFireMan

iTrader: (5)

Go on bmr's website an search for the bmr relocation bracket kit. this will allow u to run true duals over the axle with ease. AN EASY $200 BUCKS! but its thats what u want, u gotta pay to play.

P.S. there relocation kit is also used on kooks true dual setup. GOOD LUCK

Mike52

iTrader: (1)

Don't know where you're trying to get the work done now but I'm sure once you get to Austin you will have better luck in finding a shop capable of performing the work you desire. Here's a tip, stay away from the 'muffler shops', they all prefer to do 'quick & easy' jobs, the maximum $$$ for the least amount of time, it's called flat rate work. Being a hot rodder, I know there are custom shops and speed shops in the Austin area that will do this type of work and their main focus is quality not quick & easy and their prices aren't out of line for the work they do. I'd check with Austin Speed Shop first, they are very well known around the country for building amazing cars, trucks, etc. If they say No (which I doubt), ask them who they would recommend. You won't regret it.

ws6outlaw

just looked on the cooks website and it says for theirs they will need a drive shaft safety loop as well as the other panhard bar.
why do i need the safety loop?
and if i could just get those foot long pieces of tubing that go over the axle by themselves i'd be in business lol. i doubt anybody can get just those pieces?

you know i would even settle for non-mandrel bends over the axle

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

DS loop is a good idea esp with the LS1 alum DS because they snap at anything and can really hurt someone

Look on ebay for mandrel kits. The shop I like sells defect bends for very cheap in bulk. One kit of 10 bends is plenty for an over the axle job

Aftermarket upper panhard bars built for duals confuse me. It seems like whoever is doing the duals is too lazy to figure out another bend or two to clear the stock stuff. I just crammed 4" over the axle past the stock panhard. I stuck two pieces of 3" in there and theres worlds of room. Why is this even needed?

ws6outlaw

so has anybody done it with out the aftermarket panhard bar? just wondering if it can be done. maybe theres hitting with the stock panhard bar over bumps or something. i was looking for those mandrel bends on ebay but didnt find anything like you described. is there a particular seller you could point me to pocket?

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

Stock is fine if you're careful. If anything you can stick it in a vice and tweak it a little for that extra little bit of clearance

Punch in mandrel bends into the ebay motors search and you'll see the sets of 10 in both aluminized steel and SS for VERY cheap. They're all defects but I havent found one single bend that was unusable. Cant post the link because they're not a sponsor

ws6outlaw

just so you know i don't have a stock bender....but with some home ingenuity do you think i could make this a hose clamp and hanger job and not weld it from the axle back? or will it be too unstable? those mandrel bends are CHEAP! just hope i can get lucky with my batch

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

No, you'll have to weld atleast the tubing together after a long day or two of test fitting and trimming pieces

Heres just the over-the-axle section of my 4". You can see theres only one intact bend in the whole of it and even it had both ends tweaked slightly. The little ring is actually 3"