NOBR8KSS

iTrader: (12)

EXACT same thing happened to me a year ago or so. You're BCM (Body Control Module) is probably fried. Apparently it just happens for no reason. Your car will not start until the dealer replaces the BCM...has to do with the VATS system.
The dealer replaced my lock cylinder and the BCM for about $500. I was pissed.

You can't push start it and the starter is fine....the BCM is preventing the car from starting...sorry, but you're out $500 unless you are under warranty.

minivette

I bypassed my lock cylinder for less than $1. There are ways of fixing it without breaking the bank.

Iv_z28

I had exactly the same issue last year. It wouldn't start - I'd try to turn the key a few times - and magically it would start. In a couple days the problem got worse, so I had to push-start it couple times (M6). Eventually stopped by the dealer. They scanned it and told me the sensor in the key master cylinder was bad. I need the car everyday and so I just had them fix it (replace the cylinder and get the new keys. they told me the sensor alone couldn't be replaced and I had no reason to doubt that, though still don't know) . $460 for everything or something like that

If you have time, you may try to fix it on your own - you have to disassemble the steering coulumn, and the cylinder is somewhere under the airbag... ..perhaps the stupid sensor has a loose wire or something like that, and you would save the labor money.

VoodooWS6

What is VATS?

LeadSled1

Vehicle Anti Theft System. Or leaves your *** stranded system. I had the one go bad on my 91 Vette. PIA!

minivette

You can bypass the broken ground by wiring in a reisitor to match the ohms of the key.

This is the cheap and easy way. However, someone can steal your car with a regualr key.

14u2nv

Where is this BODY CONTROL MODULE located and can I replace it myself? Are these coded to the car, like only done through the dealer? If I have a friend use his laptop and scan the PCM, will I find out whats wrong that way?

14u2nv

Anyone...ttt

wrencher

iTrader: (2)

Put a scanner on it & see what code you get , Have you even pulled the lower bolster panel down yet to check the wires at the coulmn with an ohm meter w/key in cylinder?
Do you have a digital ohm meter?
BCM failure, no don't attempt to repair, you need to reprogram the vats to the specfic set up.
However they are rare, & are most likely sold as a inexperenced tech throwing parts at a problem IMO.

14u2nv

I pulled the lower bolster and the lower panel beneath that to make sure the clutch was ok. I will swap my clutch switch with my WS6 tomorrow to make sure the switch hasn't failed. My next step is to recheck all the fuses and the relays. I plan to swap the relays with my Ws6, just to make sure they are fine. Then I will have my friend scan it.

LSWONTA

iTrader: (3)

Same thing happened to my friend in the staging lanes at the track last year.It ended up being 1 of the "Big" blade fuses in the fuse box.I think it was like a 50 amp fuse.Hope this helps.

ZLEEPER

iTrader: (24)

did you check your terminal connections? sometimes the connection is good enough to power accessories, but lacks the current to turn the starter resulting in the "clicking noise" maybe you got lucky and it's something simple like this that we all over look. chris

14u2nv

Pulled my 2000 Ws6 up next to the SS this afternoon after work. I checked all the fuses on the side of the dash and in the engine compartment, none were blown. I then swapped all the relays in both boxes in the engine compartment one by one. I would pull one out of my SS, then pull the same one from my WS6 and install it in the SS, then I would try to strat the SS. i swapped all the relays and nothing. I even swapped the clutch switch and that didn't work. I will have my bud scan it sometime this week.

disco192

Try turning the key and get a wrench and hit the starter.... if the starter is bad, it should kick over.

Repo Man

iTrader: (1)

I know that you checked the fuse but check them again. I had my Nitrous system wired up the the fuse pannel on the side of the dash to the Ign connector. It was drawing too much amprage and blowing the fuse for the Gauges and **** and my car would do the exact thing yours is. Replaced the fuse...AFTER I TOWED IT. Fired right up.

14u2nv

We are going to scan the car Saturday!

JCurtin

iTrader: (1)

man please tell me what you find out! Here is my situation,
I am...just plain lost. I have been doing searches on every damn fbody site on the net! My car is a 98ta, I just installed pacesetter headers,ory, and a 3500 tci stall. Also removed air,and egr, no rear sims because texasspeed is gonna flash the pcm. I havent touched the car in 2 days, went outside and it started up on the 1st try as usual. Well 2 cranks later did it again. I did a fuel pressure check on the rail and it was fine. Removed or swapped relays,fuses. Checked the grounds on the block. Oh my brand new ngks are straight black and smell like gas. My car will attempt to crank, fuel pump comes on pressure is good, turn key car cranks away, no its not the starter. Floor the car and it sputters and starts vvvvvrrrrrrrrooooooom. Idles fine,drives fine wot fine. Wtf could cause this at start up? The car is absolutely flooded after 3 starts, what give what did you guys come up with?
I have checked over everything what could I have missed? This is pissing me off like no other, I dont want to just start throwing money and parts at the car. I'm gonna swap the plugs tomorrow, and see what else I can find wrong. And no I do not have access to a programmer or edit. But the codes I am throwing are egr,air, and coolant temp sensor, I replaced the cts after the headers because the pin broke. I have no rear o2s or sims, and the car has not thrown a cat or o2 code, wtf

Z28GSXRTim

I had the same thing happen to me. It turns out the battery started leaking and shorted itself out. I replaced the battery and it worked fine. Let us know what is wrong.