texas speed header fitment and install
10-04-2011, 06:53 PM
#21
I know, i was putting a monetary value on your time and labor. Basically just to answer the question: Is it worth paying for more expensive headers versus doing a little extra work yourself? If you actually count time as money, then you can see that it is worth doing the extra work. For someone who doesn't have some extra time, or their time is worth alot more due to other commitments then it might be worth it to pay for the more expensive product rather then spending some DIY time.
On a side note:
TSP 1 7/8 headers w/ TSP y-pipe, locking bolts, gaskets= $620 (from TSP)
Kooks 1 7/8 headers w/ Kooks y-pipe, bolts, gaskets= $1171 (from maryland speed)
$550 dollar difference.
On a side note:
TSP 1 7/8 headers w/ TSP y-pipe, locking bolts, gaskets= $620 (from TSP)
Kooks 1 7/8 headers w/ Kooks y-pipe, bolts, gaskets= $1171 (from maryland speed)
$550 dollar difference.
10-04-2011, 08:06 PM
#23
Unless they did a design change my driver side was not going in without that motor mount loose and the engine tilted slightly. Or the mount completely out. My passenger side went in so easy if my wife wasn't holding it for me from the top it would fall down on my chest/face.
10-05-2011, 08:50 AM
#25
Great question, others may have a different method but what worked for me is getting the header up and a couple of the header bolts started. Do not tighten them just get them started so the header has some wiggle room. Then go back below insert the mount unit and get it started. Get all the bolts threaded to the block and then the pedistal. Do not tightin anything until all of the motor mount/ped bolts have been started and your sure the threads have caught and not crossed. Then torque everything down to spec. Go back up top and torque the header bolts to spec and go from there. Hope this was not confusing and answered your question.
10-05-2011, 10:47 AM
#27
the search bottom at the top of the page works great!!! but here are the torque specs:
first pass : 11 lb ft
second pass 18 lb ft
and here is a link for all your future torque spec questions.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1
first pass : 11 lb ft
second pass 18 lb ft
and here is a link for all your future torque spec questions.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1
10-05-2011, 11:10 AM
#29
10-05-2011, 05:31 PM
#30
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heh.. i edited my previous post to reflex shipping prices and y-pipe differences.
@bigdragon, I tightened my bolts on first pass to 17lb and left it at that. Since they are locking bolts, i presume they don't need to stretch their threads as tight, just keep the gasket sealed. if you go with regular bolts (not locking) then yeah go with what the manual says (11 then 18lb). ALso yeah, put the headers in first. I was able to tighten the header down completely and not have of an issue putting the driver side motor mount back in. but it probably would be best to leave it loose just in case. For the driver side we took the bracket completely out. for the passenger side we just left the mounting brackets in and only took out the center piece (the one you replace with a prothane piece).
@bigdragon, I tightened my bolts on first pass to 17lb and left it at that. Since they are locking bolts, i presume they don't need to stretch their threads as tight, just keep the gasket sealed. if you go with regular bolts (not locking) then yeah go with what the manual says (11 then 18lb). ALso yeah, put the headers in first. I was able to tighten the header down completely and not have of an issue putting the driver side motor mount back in. but it probably would be best to leave it loose just in case. For the driver side we took the bracket completely out. for the passenger side we just left the mounting brackets in and only took out the center piece (the one you replace with a prothane piece).
10-05-2011, 07:24 PM
#32
Got my headers in today they look amazing,I haven't open the catted Y-pipe box yet, I'm working on the MM inserts first. I cannot believe I had to drain my new Castrol Synthetic oil it only has about 200 miles on it. I may not re-use it and replace it with Royal Purple. It seems I have my work cut out for the next few days,I see why they charge so much for the install.
10-06-2011, 09:55 AM
#33
I'm gonna agree with Matt. I bought a set of used Kooks 1 7/8" for $550 while waiting for TSP to stock their new headers. I like them alot but wouldn't have paid full price for them over TSP's $500 stainless set. I paid to have the headers installed anyways as I feel that it's worth the price of having a professional install anything exhaust related.
10-06-2011, 12:24 PM
#35
Speed inc. ruin my weekend install,they send me 2 - 12" 02 sensor extensions instead of a 1 - 24" and 1 - 12".
I have both headers in and both poly M.M. in what a real pain in the rear that was would not do that again for anyone. I had to grind a small section off the subframe it was too close for to the header on the drivers side,but it took me way too long time wise by myself.
Tomorrow I'll finish the rest of it.
All done except the catted Y-pipe from Texas speed it will not bolt on directly. The passenger side header and cat will not slide in too darn tight and the merger will not slide in to my factory exhaust pipe,even if it did is too long it has to be cut. Very upsetting I'm gonna have to rent a car hauler and take it a Muffler shop and let them cut,heat and weld. I did not want to spend extra $ on this mod but I have to now.
10-08-2011, 04:25 PM
#36
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10-08-2011, 06:09 PM
#39
All done except the catted Y-pipe from Texas speed it will not bolt on directly. The passenger side header and cat will not slide in too darn tight and the merger will not slide in to my factory exhaust pipe,even if it did is too long it has to be cut. Very upsetting I'm gonna have to rent a car hauler and take it a Muffler shop and let them cut,heat and weld. I did not want to spend extra $ on this mod but I have to now.