texas speed header fitment and install
I installed some TSPs with Ypipe this weekend in a buddy's car. Took a little time to line up but came out nice. I love those headers and will do it to my car next. Props to TSP for bringing these out!!!
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: Eastern NC
Not so much the bragging part, but the rest how so? How can you call yourself a car guy of you don't at least do some wrenching. I honestly despise deep pocket guys who call themselves car guys but never touched a screw driver in their life. How can you ever know about your parts and give insight on LS1TECH if your not physically touching them yourself in someway besides fresh out the delivery box? Lame laziness. There IS a certain pride to say, yea I installed my own headers, and came across that same issue, let me help you out. But instead, oh I had the shop do it, I paid $400 extra and I don't care as long as its done, I wouldn't know about tips or tricks to get it in there, just go have a shop do it. 
I installed a set of the 1 7/8s for a customer today. Passenger side was a joke, took minutes... driver side took much longer. Ended up removing the filter, plug, heat shields, steering shaft, unbolted the motor mount and lifted the motor high as it could possibly go. Once in they cleared everything nicely!
If you search any y pipe made from any company you'll find people bitching that it doesn't fit right. In 14 years of this car being out EVERY SINGLE y pipe gets complaints.
We install our systems here without any issues, but there are customers that have a hard time putting it all together. By going with multiple pieces we leave the Y pipe more adjustable. The idea of being more adjustable is the customer can carefully adjust & fit the Y prior to clamping & assembly. After the cars been out 14 years there's a lot of variables that come into play. So do you build a Y pipe for a stock I, a 3" I, a I pipe that has a muffler welded in, a aftermarket I pipe, a 2.5" I pipe, a car with new motor mounts, a car with old motor mounts.... The list goes on & on... As a result we decided to build a Y pipe that is in multiple parts so it can be adjusted for each application.
If you don't want a Y pipe that is as adjustable buy the pacesetter, it leaves less room for adjustment. We keep our header exit locations very similar to pacesetter so you can have your choice of Y pipe.
To answer your questions I would 1000 percent be happy to build a y pipe that everyone thought worked perfectly, but in 14 years nobody in the entire world has been able to produce a Y pipe that everyone thinks fits correctly.
If someone gives me a Y pipe & said make it exactly like this & it will fit every time I would build hundreds of them RIGHT NOW. The reality is nobody in 14 years has built a Y pipe that hasn't been bashed on ls1tech for fitment issues.
I built a y pipe that is very adjustable & priced at a unbelievably good price, and because it's a good part at a good price I get people bashing me because it must be "Chinese junk." What a bunch of crap. If you ask me charging $1000 for headers is a bunch of crap... We use thick flanges, thick high quality 304 stainless & offer it at a price that smashes the competition.
If you guys would feel better about it I can raise the price to $1000 for headers & y pipe.... So Shoot me for building a product for a reasonable price....
As far as the headers are concerned we've sold thousands of sets with almost no fitment issues at all. The headers are proven performers every time. You can unbolt the tranny cross-member and slide it over slightly & move the header into place without removing any motor mounts.
If for some reason you guys want to run a different y pipe other than the TSP Y pipe, we still sell many other brands.
We install our systems here without any issues, but there are customers that have a hard time putting it all together. By going with multiple pieces we leave the Y pipe more adjustable. The idea of being more adjustable is the customer can carefully adjust & fit the Y prior to clamping & assembly. After the cars been out 14 years there's a lot of variables that come into play. So do you build a Y pipe for a stock I, a 3" I, a I pipe that has a muffler welded in, a aftermarket I pipe, a 2.5" I pipe, a car with new motor mounts, a car with old motor mounts.... The list goes on & on... As a result we decided to build a Y pipe that is in multiple parts so it can be adjusted for each application.
If you don't want a Y pipe that is as adjustable buy the pacesetter, it leaves less room for adjustment. We keep our header exit locations very similar to pacesetter so you can have your choice of Y pipe.
To answer your questions I would 1000 percent be happy to build a y pipe that everyone thought worked perfectly, but in 14 years nobody in the entire world has been able to produce a Y pipe that everyone thinks fits correctly.
If someone gives me a Y pipe & said make it exactly like this & it will fit every time I would build hundreds of them RIGHT NOW. The reality is nobody in 14 years has built a Y pipe that hasn't been bashed on ls1tech for fitment issues.
I built a y pipe that is very adjustable & priced at a unbelievably good price, and because it's a good part at a good price I get people bashing me because it must be "Chinese junk." What a bunch of crap. If you ask me charging $1000 for headers is a bunch of crap... We use thick flanges, thick high quality 304 stainless & offer it at a price that smashes the competition.
If you guys would feel better about it I can raise the price to $1000 for headers & y pipe.... So Shoot me for building a product for a reasonable price....
As far as the headers are concerned we've sold thousands of sets with almost no fitment issues at all. The headers are proven performers every time. You can unbolt the tranny cross-member and slide it over slightly & move the header into place without removing any motor mounts.
If for some reason you guys want to run a different y pipe other than the TSP Y pipe, we still sell many other brands.
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: Eastern NC
Pictures of what? There's a lot of statements in that awesome post, which is very well said. People need to seriously stop complaining about using a little elbow grease when it comes to the car hobby. No matter what part it is, if you can say you've never EVER came across something that didn't go in quite like it should have, and you had to use your man wit and bear paws to get in there, your a bold face friggin liar. Now does this mean a product is crap? HELL No! It means its a car, and no car is the same. Wrench, don't be a b****.
I don't mean to dig up an old thread here... (well I do really LOL). But I don't see where all the trouble with these headers is coming from. I installed mine, and only had to remove the drain plug, oil filter, starter, and steering knuckle.. most of which had to be removed to get the stock manifolds out anyways lmao. I swear these slid in easier than the manifolds came out *shrug*. No loosening of the motor mount no moving the AC or alternator nothing.
The sweet thunders TD's just showed up here and are shipping!
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Largest Stocking Distributor of LS-x Engines / CHECK OUT OUR NEW WEBSITE!
COMP - FAST - PACESETTER - DIAMOND RACING - EAGLE SPECIALTY PRODUCTS - CALLIES - COMETIC GASKETS
RAM CLUTCHES - MOSER ENGINEERING - KOOK'S HEADERS - ARP - GM BOLTS AND GASKETS - MSD - NGK
POWERBOND - ASP - AND MORE!
Hey Matt, I sent yall an email about how happy I was with the quality,fitment and ease of install on your longtubes. I was very happy with the product, but also in the email I asked a round about of when I can expect the ory pipe from yall? Thanks in advance
I just got done intalling TSP's 1-7/8 headers. I was a little woried about the driverside after reading some other install threads, but the header went in easy. All i removed was the oil filter, plug, and bypass block (I left the steering shaft alone). You just have to get the car up high enough, and push the header up with the flange almost perpendicular to the ground (90 degrees). I was having some trouble until i realized I had put the oil plug back in. Once I removed it, the header slid up pretty easy. So if your not going to replace the motor mounts, you can get the header up there without removing the motor mount.
The headers fit pretty good, but I havent put the spark plugs in yet. So hopefully the plugs go in easy.
The headers fit pretty good, but I havent put the spark plugs in yet. So hopefully the plugs go in easy.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
What he said, removing the driver side motor mount is a must. That's about the hardest thing you have to do. once they are in they seem to fit nicely. Not touching anything that could cause problems. I went from stock to these and havent had an issue with ground clearance from the headers. The y-pipe on the other hand will scrape on speedbumps and driveways. However, I think it's actually just my flanges and clamps that are scraping not the actual y-pipe. So far I'm very happy with the headers though, no issues. Just gotta tweak the y-pipe setup for better clearance.
