What header bolts are you guys running?
What header bolts are you guys running? A while back I bought a set of Stage 8 P/N 8900 locking header bolts. I measure 25 mm beneath the head. Are these what people usually run? Just wondering if the length is too much, I have a stock header bolt laying around that I measured to be about 3/4".
25mm is right for hardware store type bolts, as in, you're in a bind and need to get on the road.
Factory's are 30mm, but the first 5mm if the bolt themselves have no thread. I you buy 30's and they are theaded all the way, you'll bottom out before the bolt flange meets the header flange.
I reused the stockers, but plan on using Pearcy's Split Locks when I upgrade heads here soon. I simply can't justify ARP's price for header bolts.
Factory's are 30mm, but the first 5mm if the bolt themselves have no thread. I you buy 30's and they are theaded all the way, you'll bottom out before the bolt flange meets the header flange.
I reused the stockers, but plan on using Pearcy's Split Locks when I upgrade heads here soon. I simply can't justify ARP's price for header bolts.
I've had the same Stage 8's on mine for like 8 or 9 years. After a couple of years, I just threw away the locking tabs and clips because they are a PITA and the bolts had never tried to back out anyway.
x 2... i didn't end up using the e-clips & tabs,(just the bolts)
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YUP, worked great for me too, and i have removed and reinstalled my headers 3 times. once when new, once for a head swap, and once for motor mounts (god i wish i did this at the same time i did headers....what a bitch)
Mark.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Arp 134-1003 x 4 work pretty well too. Cheaper than their header studs but stronger than the stock bolts.
I am sure you could source some arp fasteners in stainless that are not studs as well...
I am sure you could source some arp fasteners in stainless that are not studs as well...
In my opinion, if a bolt breaks its not a safety concern. I can still drive home/to a shop. Therefore it's more of a nuisance issue. In my case I'm more willing to accept the likelihood of a broken bolt than spending the money on upgraded bolts.
Mark.
If you break the bolt off inside the head or have tried to take them out, you would prob be less likely to say that.
They are not fun. With a cast iron head, all you would do is just take a torch to it, but these sometimes break off not flush or sticking out, but in the hole. Not easy to get out, esp with locktite on them.
They are not fun. With a cast iron head, all you would do is just take a torch to it, but these sometimes break off not flush or sticking out, but in the hole. Not easy to get out, esp with locktite on them.
If you break the bolt off inside the head or have tried to take them out, you would prob be less likely to say that.
They are not fun. With a cast iron head, all you would do is just take a torch to it, but these sometimes break off not flush or sticking out, but in the hole. Not easy to get out, esp with locktite on them.
They are not fun. With a cast iron head, all you would do is just take a torch to it, but these sometimes break off not flush or sticking out, but in the hole. Not easy to get out, esp with locktite on them.
Mark.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Right, and when the bolt breaks off flush with the head and you have to pull the head to have the piece removed, costing you a LOT of labor and a head gasket, and possibly a set of stock head bolts, maybe even having to have your head re-milled for flatness.....all because you were too cheap to buy a $50 set of bolts.