DBShocker

ok lately my car has been doing the same thing where is takes a second or 2 longer to start up, unless i prime the ignition a few times it fires right up as normal and i was just wondering where is the fuel check valve and the fuel filter on a 98 ls1 camaro?

02ws.sik

How old are your plugs and what are they gapped too?

DBShocker

my plugs are like 6k miles old maybe little more and .40 and are the NGK V-Power

02ws.sik

Have you seafoamed the car yet? Do you have stock wires?

DBShocker

no i have not seafoamed it ive seen alot of bad happen from that(2 much money into my car to mess anything up) and i have msd plug wires on it.

DBShocker

also have recently had the heads and valves and everything cleaned since the cam broke one of springs and had to replace all my springs and a bent valve.

DBShocker

just need to know where the filter and check valve are on my car lol

02ws.sik

That i dont know once you fill up your tank to full put 2/3rds of it in the tank. People say a full can but i jsut did 2/3 and it worked great. It wont hurt anything. The problem is people putting it through the brake booster. Through the tank is fine. That should help.

DBShocker

of what the seafoam stuff?

02ws.sik

Yes put some seafoam through your gas when you go to fill up.

05MBMLS2

iTrader: (34)

After watching video, I can tell you its not a battery/starter issue as its turning over perfectly fine. Thats more of a plug/coil/fuel issue. Check the fuel pressure at the rails, replace the plugs with some tr55's and see how it starts after that.

RebelExtrm02

iTrader: (3)

It has brand new tr55s in it and msd wires. Before that it had semi old tr55s in it with stock wires and it started the same as it does now. It also has a new wix fuel filter, stp paper filter, and freshly cleaned maf for what it's worth.

I suppose I'll look into a fuel pressure gauge. If that passes, then I suppose I'll look into getting it re-tuned.

05MBMLS2

iTrader: (34)

Yea check pressure before/during/after startup and see how it looks. Besides that they may need to tweak your tune.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Couple of things, in your first video the key was already in the "on" position when you started it. If the check valve is really bad it won't hold a prime. When you turn the key to on the pump comes on and primes, if you let it sit for a few seconds after the pump ran and the valve is real bad it will lose the prime that fast.

I agree it sounded the same in both however and not being there it is hard to say.

It still kinda seemed like fuel or the tune (air/fuel mixture). Since when it did fire it fired up and ran decent (didn't stumble and miss etc) I doubt it is anything other than something to do with fuel, whether it be pump or tune.




Fuel check valve is part of the fuel pump (it's inside it). The racetronix pump is hands down the best pump to go with unless you are wanting a big big horsepower setup in which case you need more pump, but either way the check valve needs to be good for the car to fire right up. I have the racetronix and love it!! If you go the the auto parts store for a new pump it comes as a big assembly with the level sender and bucket, it will cost about twice as much as the racetronix pump and you will still have a stock pump. If your sending unit works fine (fuel gauge works right) get the racetronix.

That's a good question, if they are worn or gapped wrong it makes it hard to light off the fuel on a cold start.

Sounds like that isn't the problem then. I have the same plugs, same gap, and way more miles. BUT do go crank the car and after it runs for just a few seconds shut it off and pull a plug, see if it is black/fuel fouled. If it is it's burning rich, another way to see if it is too rich is hold the gas pedal down just a hair while cranking it up, not primed, if it lights right off then it is rich. We know that because when you pushed the pedal down a little you introduced more air so it lights off easier. That's if it's rich anyway.

Wires would cause it to misfire, not a delayed start. Seafoam won't improve this symptom much if any.

Seafoamed way more cars than I can count, including multiple cars of my own, have never had an issue.

Yup, battery and starter sounded great. Checking the fuel pressure definately needs to be done. That will show whether the pressure is bleeding down, the method I posted helps you determine that if you don't have a guage, not the best way but it works a lot of the time.


I concur!

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

My car was a forged 347 with prc 5.3 stage 2.5 heads milled for 11.5:1 compression with a 235/240 112+4 cam and a ported FAST 92 combo and would fire right away everytime. As ive seen with the setups ive had its all in the tune. Cunningham Motorsports specd my cam and also tuned it.

DBShocker

ok here we go sorry dont mean to take over thread here,
Starting when it acts up:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9xlP...UmZTgPmMmVrm2o

Starting when it acts fine:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdsAs..._order&list=UL

from the sounds of it im thinking it has to b something with the fuel pump and all because i just put a new fuel filter on, that didnt help, and it dosent do it everytime just sometimes. so i leaning more towards the check valve and pump.

02ws.sik

I want to say thats wires plugs or a coil.

Thule

my car is cammed. starts rigth up

02ws.sik

^thays why i am thinking its coils or wires or plugs. Check if you wires are worrking properly.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Again, the check valve is in the fuel pump. I cannot begin to count how many GM fuel pumps I have changed for this exact reason. Two things can cause fuel drain back/not hold prime. Pump check valve or regulator, we have returnless systems so it's near impossible to test the regulator. If we had fuel rail mounted regulators I could tell you how to eliminate that from the equation. You said when you prime it it fires right up didn't you? If so put a pump in it. Mine did it, my best friends chevy truck is doing it now, and many many customer cars have done it. On GM's it was always the pump. I have changed pumps on many other makes of vehicles too for the same exact thing.

Only thing it could be is plugs, and it would be more constant if it were plugs, and it would be worse on cold starts that when the engine is warmed up, hard to light off a cold mixture, so if the plugs are worn that's when it will show. To cause an extended crank from coils or wires all the coils or all the wires would have to be dead at the same time then all the sudden all come alive, theoretically not possible and I damn sure wouldn't bet on it. If some of either were bad it would stumble and misfire and it would misfire while running/driving.





If you guys will go get a fuel pressure tester, rent one or buy one, you could narrow this down so easy. Hook up the fuel pressure tester to the test port on the end of the driver side fuel rail, prime the system and watch the gauge, the fuel pressure should hold or fall extrememly slowly, and I mean take many minutes to loose 10 or so pounds of pressure. If you watch that gauge just drop or drop multiple pounds in a few seconds to a few minutes... you are seeing the gas drain back into the tank so the pressure drops. The pump has to repump the fuel back up to the rails AND pressurize it before it will crank right up. That is the number one cause of extended crank times, no fuel pressure or fuel in the rail at start up.

If it is something that it has done ever since a tune change or engine parts change, check the tune. If it started out of the blue, check fuel pressure drop..