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Are cammed cars always harder to start?

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Old 01-04-2012, 09:40 AM
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Question Are cammed cars always harder to start?

This is my first cam car. When starting the car after its sat for a while it has to crank a few times before it fires up. My friends stock 2001 Camaro starts on the first bump of his starter.

My car is fully tuned up with new air filter, fuel filter, wires, and ngk plugs gapped to .050.

I'm not so much concerned as I am just curious. I have no other complaints or issues with how the car acts or runs.

Last edited by RebelExtrm02; 01-07-2012 at 02:49 PM.
Old 01-04-2012, 09:51 AM
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Poorly tuned, yeah. You can bring it around but it takes
some time in trying. And cold start behavior is not the
kind of thing that you can do a lot of, at once, so it is
not something that your dyno or mail order tuner can
take more than a stab at.
Old 01-04-2012, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by RebelExtrm02
This is my first cam car. When starting the car after its sat for a while it has to crank a few times before it fires up. My friends stock 2001 Camaro starts on the first bump of his starter.

My car is fully tuned up with new air filter, fuel filter, wires, and ngk plugs gapped to .050.

I'm no so much concerned as I am just curious. I have no other complaints or issues with how the car acts or runs.
A weak check valve in the fuel pump is notorious for causing long crank times in GM cars, next time try priming the fuel system and see if it fires right up. Prime it by turning the key on for 3-4 seconds, back off for 3-4 seconds, then back on again for 3-4 seconds, that will build up fuel pressure, then crank it and see if it fires right up.

It could be several things, but on a GM with a long crank complaint I always start there.

FYI what happens is the check valve in the pump goes bad and lets all the fuel drain out of the fuel line back into the tank so when you hit the key the pump has to fill the line and build pressure, that isn't immediate. If the check valve is good the line stays full of fuel and the pump can pressurize it very quickly.
Old 01-04-2012, 11:38 AM
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I barely turn my key on my cam only car and it instantly fires every time
Old 01-04-2012, 11:52 AM
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No problems here, but my friends car was tuned by someone different and his cold start behavior is terrible at best.

Its either your tune or a fuel pressure issue. Cycling the ignition a few time like posted above will rule that out.
Old 01-04-2012, 04:49 PM
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NO. My car starts easy on all 9 cams i have had on two different motors. It turns over easy and idles easy. I even start it in michigan 10deg belo zero and it starts great.
Old 01-04-2012, 04:53 PM
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When my car was H/C/I it would start just as a stock one would.
Old 01-04-2012, 04:55 PM
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Sounds like it needs more cold start tuning
Old 01-04-2012, 05:19 PM
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My truck fires first piston during cold starts but cranks for a while when its warm. I'm a beginning tuner and haven't had any help with it. Don't know what to look at
Old 01-04-2012, 05:32 PM
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Your sig says it was tuned by PatG; but your location suggests that was probably done prior to your purchasing it? Have you talked with Pat about the tune? If it's starts/idles fine, but takes a few revolutions; then I wouldn't think it was tune related.

What is your cranking RPM? Are you sure you don't have a weak battery? A fuel pressure gauge during starts may also give you more of an idea what's going on.
Old 01-04-2012, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by FormulaZR
Your sig says it was tuned by PatG; but your location suggests that was probably done prior to your purchasing it? Have you talked with Pat about the tune? If it's starts/idles fine, but takes a few revolutions; then I wouldn't think it was tune related.

What is your cranking RPM? Are you sure you don't have a weak battery? A fuel pressure gauge during starts may also give you more of an idea what's going on.
Yes, the previous owner had it tuned by him. I have not yet spoken to him about the tune. I thought I'd ask here first before bugging him as I know he's a busy person it has been a couple years.

I'll test out the fuel pump priming and look into a fuel pressure gauge and we'll go from there. A weak batter could certain be a viability, though I've accidentally let the car sit for 8 hours with the interior lights on once and still started (didn't shut trunk well enough). Could an autoparts store test the battery and give me a good indication of its health?
Old 01-04-2012, 08:54 PM
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Are the cranks slow? Or does the starter seem to be healthy? If it seems healthy then I would say fuel or tune, If the turn overs seem to be on the slow side have your battery tested.
Old 01-04-2012, 09:36 PM
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Another thing to mention is your plugs should be gapped at .040, that shouldn't affect the start up but still important
Old 01-04-2012, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by RebelExtrm02
Yes, the previous owner had it tuned by him. I have not yet spoken to him about the tune. I thought I'd ask here first before bugging him as I know he's a busy person it has been a couple years.

I'll test out the fuel pump priming and look into a fuel pressure gauge and we'll go from there. A weak batter could certain be a viability, though I've accidentally let the car sit for 8 hours with the interior lights on once and still started (didn't shut trunk well enough). Could an autoparts store test the battery and give me a good indication of its health?
Yes, most Autozone's can test your battery; don't know about the other stores.

My point about the PatG tune was this - his tunes are very good, he puts a good deal of time into the driveability aspect; and I would be shocked if the starting issue was a result of his tune. But, I suppose anything is possible...


As for the starting - if it seems sluggish or slow, that could be a weak battery or starter.

Once it turns over a few times, does it "start right up" or does is it kind of coaxed into starting. Not sure if that made sense...

Even without a fuel pressure tester, with the key on - you can probably press down (while wearing safety glasses/covering eyes) the valve on the fuel rail that looks like an overgrown valve stem to see if there is pressure at the rails. I'm speculating on that...I have never done that myself; but in my head it would work?



Not trying to make a mountain out of a molehill...but diagnosing a small problem now might save you a bigger headache in the future.

Last edited by FormulaZR; 01-05-2012 at 06:59 AM.
Old 01-05-2012, 07:27 AM
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Here's a cold start with a torquer 2. Sounds like you have other problems.
http://home.comcast.net/~sgunn4866/coldstart.MOV
Old 01-05-2012, 09:36 AM
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How many of you guys with cam cars with quick starts are running a racetronix?

That's a bad *** fuel pump right there.
Old 01-05-2012, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by joblo1978
How many of you guys with cam cars with quick starts are running a racetronix?

That's a bad *** fuel pump right there.
I have the Racetronix pump/hotwire in my heads/cam WS.6. Starts up VERY easy, even cold.

My buddy was amazed at how quick/easy it started.
Old 01-05-2012, 10:05 AM
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The Racetronix pump/hotwire kit is BADASS. That was EASILY the best thing I bought so far
Old 01-07-2012, 02:48 PM
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Well I took a cold start video yesterday morning without any priming of the fuel pump. Then I took another video this morning after priming the pump 4 times as 00pooterSS instructed. Both in the morning after sitting for 15 hours and both @ ~35* F outside. As you'll see, they're almost identical.

Cold start without extra "priming" of pump:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9YwJUzU3nA

Cold start with 4 cycles of the key before starting to "prime" the pump:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQnBZa4klJo
Old 01-07-2012, 02:51 PM
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Mine turns on fast.


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