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Installing MS4 in 04 z06 without removing heads?

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Old 01-26-2012, 08:38 AM
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I think they come in 3' lengths? Don't quote me.

Either way you'll have to cut them shorter.
Old 01-26-2012, 08:45 AM
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Ok, thanks! Im just saying because THIS IS DEFINETLY NEEDED FOR A CAM SWAP WITH THE HEADS ON FOR THE LIFTERS NOT TO FALL.

Last edited by Ronny_02_WS6; 01-26-2012 at 09:36 AM.
Old 01-26-2012, 09:46 AM
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Don't you have to pull the heads off to replace the springs or is that the rocker arms you have to pull the heads of to replade?? Can someone post a link that shows how to replace valvesprings? I was using ms4 as a example. I was thinking a 228r or a vrx5 cam.. what else will I need to replace valvetrain wise? And should I just port my oil pump and get ls2 timing chain or does someone recommend anything else? Thanks for the input guys!!
Old 01-26-2012, 10:19 AM
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This should work: http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
Read Carefully
Old 01-26-2012, 11:08 AM
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the ms4 is 649 lift?
Old 01-26-2012, 11:17 AM
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Yes, on the intake lobe!
Old 01-26-2012, 11:19 AM
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Lordy lordy
Old 01-26-2012, 12:13 PM
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Just take the heads off, 15 min of extra work. And you can work easier.. Get some arp head bolts and you can reuse them for the life of the car.. And that's a big cam, deff need springs and new lifters and the trunion upgrade..

I'd hate to put that cam in and brake a stock part on the engine and do major damage..

Just my opinion though!
Old 01-26-2012, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Ronny_02_WS6
This should work: http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
Read Carefully
Wonderful! Now I understand everything 100% besides reinstalling the crank shaft pulley, now is he saying install the new longer one and torque it to 240lb/ft and you're done?? And what cam's are guaranteed to not stop the rotating assembly for being too big?? Thanks for the help!
Old 01-26-2012, 04:38 PM
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Old 01-26-2012, 10:27 PM
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Will the trex cam require any fly cutting to th pistons or milling to the heads period? Because I really don't want to have the car down for that long. And what about in a ls1?
Old 01-26-2012, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by vetteboy99
Wonderful! Now I understand everything 100% besides reinstalling the crank shaft pulley, now is he saying install the new longer one and torque it to 240lb/ft and you're done?? And what cam's are guaranteed to not stop the rotating assembly for being too big?? Thanks for the help!
DO NOT use a longer bolt to install the pulley. You need to push the pulley on not pull it with a longer bolt. You run the risk of damaging the crank threads. I built a tool that threaded into the crank and used washers and a nut to push the pulley back on. Hope that makes sense.
Old 01-27-2012, 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by vetteboy99
Will the trex cam require any fly cutting to th pistons or milling to the heads period? Because I really don't want to have the car down for that long. And what about in a ls1?
LOL I thought you were looking into a 228 cam.... Why in the world are you even asking this?

A trex will clear stock heads.. Not sure what you are asking about porting/milling the heads.

It doesn't take long to fly cut if you want to mill the heads.. I recommend it.

What about in a ls1? It isn't needed but plenty do it.
Old 01-27-2012, 04:40 PM
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i didnt pay any attention to the trex cam's when you posted on here, a buddy is running one but he has a built bottom end.
Old 01-27-2012, 05:06 PM
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ARP crank bolt makes installing the crank pulley a breeze bc it is a little longer and comes with a thick washer to help...
Old 01-27-2012, 06:21 PM
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MS5 baby.
Old 01-27-2012, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by wildcamaro
ARP crank bolt makes installing the crank pulley a breeze bc it is a little longer and comes with a thick washer to help...
Do not listen to this.
Old 01-27-2012, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by LilJayV10
Do not listen to this.
+1 See post #32 for correct method.
Old 01-27-2012, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by splitfinger09
DO NOT use a longer bolt to install the pulley. You need to push the pulley on not pull it with a longer bolt. You run the risk of damaging the crank threads. I built a tool that threaded into the crank and used washers and a nut to push the pulley back on. Hope that makes sense.
Aah I see what you mean. So basically you put a Stud in the crank, then the pulley, then the washer and the nut? Have any pics? And did you make this or buy it?
Old 01-27-2012, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by vetteboy99
Aah I see what you mean. So basically you put a Stud in the crank, then the pulley, then the washer and the nut? Have any pics? And did you make this or buy it?
Yeah you can gently tap the pulley into place and then thread in your tool and start pushing the pulley on. You want to make sure you thread your tool in far enough into the crank so you have a good "bite" on the threads so you dont risk damaging them. I made it. I cant remember the pitch and size, but if you do some searching you will find it.




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