Cars heater take a long time to get hot, need to burp coolant?
#1
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Cars heater take a long time to get hot, need to burp coolant?
I took off my intake a few months back to change out my cam sensor thinking that it was the culprit of an oil leak(which it obviously wasn't,) but coolant came out when I removed the hoses from the throttle body, etc. Now that it's cold, I notice that even when my car is up to temp, like at the 210 mark, it will still blow cold air for 5 minutes or so. I'm wondering if you guys think I might just have a thermostat that is going bad, or if I need to burp the radiator since a little coolant came out. I never have done that, just added a little to the overflow tank.
The cars fan does come on if I am in stop and go traffic and not moving much.
So, I'm wondering if its the thermostat, or needing burped. I hear a weird metal, on metal sound from one of the pullies, which I think is just the a/c when it isn't on. Maybe the bearings going out.
If I do need to burp the radiator, do I just take off the radiator cap, literally fill it all the way up, let it run for 10 minutes or so, and just keep filling it up until it stays full?
The cars fan does come on if I am in stop and go traffic and not moving much.
So, I'm wondering if its the thermostat, or needing burped. I hear a weird metal, on metal sound from one of the pullies, which I think is just the a/c when it isn't on. Maybe the bearings going out.
If I do need to burp the radiator, do I just take off the radiator cap, literally fill it all the way up, let it run for 10 minutes or so, and just keep filling it up until it stays full?
#2
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I don't think you would have got air into the system just removing the TB lines. I've done several by passes and never had a heat issue. If your car is a 99-02 you don't have a acurate gauge anyway. I've got a real temp gauge in my 02 and it starts showing 210 at around 150 degrees. My car hardly ever goes over 185 on the aftermarket but the stocker shows a steady 210 all the time. Before the LT1 radiator I had my car go as high as 220 and it still show 210 on the factory gauge. If its not just false readings then I would bet thermostat.
#4
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Metal to metal sound might be the water pump... Take the radiator cap off with the car cold and rev the motor steadily to 2500 rpm..you should see the coolant level dropping in the radiator if the water pump is good
#6
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Well, I did as one person said, and removed the radiator cap when it was cold, and let it run for quite a while. I had to fill up the radiator right off the bat. I ended up putting in about a half a gallon of coolant. So, it was definitely low. The metal sound is gone now, and the heater is getting warm now just after the needle gets a tad over 100, heck, maybe even 100. I can drive for about 10 minutes or so, and still be just above the needle in between 100, and 210. So, I'd say it is much better now. lol
Thanks for the help guys!
Thanks for the help guys!