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nothing holding my y-pipe up. Once you get everything adjusted and tightened, it won't move on you or droop. Mine is tucked up tight against the underbody.
Agreed. Once everything is torqued you shouldn't need to brace the Y at all. Are you running dumped or is it going to a catback?
It's going into a catback.
My i-pipe seems a little loose on one end, maybe I can fix that or something to get it to hold a little tighter.
I need to pull everything off here sometime anyways because I want to have my dad take in the pipe on the driver side that comes off the collector (first pipe of y-pipe) to weld in a o2 bung close to the header as possible for my wideband. He can weld stainless at work. So maybe with everything off I can get it all to fit better.
LOL, I still have the crush clamps on the shelf.... I had to buy the Accuseal 3"x3" band clamps. I went to a muffler shop for the last 3 and asked him to make me a deal on them, cash.
They DO have them at Advance and Pep Boys though. I believe 10.99 or 12.99 each.
Using the C clamp just wasn't an option for me.
I cant find those Accuseal 3"x3" clamps.
The closest thing I have found so far was the Walker Aluminized Band Clamp Part No. 33310. Is that what you used basically?
Just did mine last week, got the 1 7/8 headers with the ory and some poly mounts.
Took the car to my parents garage and had my brother come down and some friends stop out to help, took probably around 18 hours, but we took our time and got side tracked quite a bit.
The motor mounts were not to bad, followed I think the "the best poly motor mount write up" somewhat. What I ended up doing, which would probably help people out alot because it made it alot easier, was I took all the exhaust off. Did the passenger side first. Put small amount of pressure using the jack and a block of wood on the oil pan. took out the 4 bolts to the engine, and the 4 on the pedestal. Pulled the whole thing back, had my brother put a wrench on one side from the top, and used the impact to take the nut off the long bolt and pulled the whole thing out. Changed them, re assembled them, but didnt tighten the long bolt down. Put it back in there as one piece, attached it to motor, left them loose enough to have some play. Lowered the car down, lined up the pedestal bolts. bolted that in, tightened all nine bolts then. Then went and did the passenger side.
Hopefully that helps someone out.
Anyways. When I ground down the K-member, I may have taken off much more than needed, hopefully that wont hurt anything. Ground a nub off the block, and a corner by the drain plug on the oil pan. Not much on either. And had to take out the oil filter. Didnt put the small heat shield back on the motor mount on the driver side. And had to pull off another heatshield on the driverside and some on the passneger, but those got put back up after the headers were on.
Ran into some issues though. The back header bolt on the passenger side is tight before it would touch the header, so hopefully the rest being tight will seal it.
Need to find something to clamp where the merger and I-pipe meet. Possibly one of those accuseal clamps would work.
And what did you guys use to hold the whole y-pipe up? Mine seems to be kind of loose.
I need to get the car on a lift to adjust the whole system anyways, its not quite like it should be. I may try to have my dad or brother get some steel to make spacers for the black brace that was on with the original y-pipe to hold everything up in place.
Let me know what you guys think.
I know this is an old thread but I had a question. Did you have to move the motor mount at all? I have an 02 trans am and am trying to install the driver side TSP 1 7/8 header. Passengerside went in like a breeze. Was your vehicle stock? Thanks!
I know this is an old thread but I had a question. Did you have to move the motor mount at all? I have an 02 trans am and am trying to install the driver side TSP 1 7/8 header. Passengerside went in like a breeze. Was your vehicle stock? Thanks!
I can't remember if I changed out the motor mounts when I did that or not. I remember getting really angry with a bunch of choice words being said. I think we got them in there without removing them, that might be the side one of my friends got in. I think we might have used a grinding wheel to remove some surrounding material. it was a bunch of twisting and tricky moving to get it in, and multiple people helping is a plus.
I know this is an old thread but I had a question. Did you have to move the motor mount at all? I have an 02 trans am and am trying to install the driver side TSP 1 7/8 header. Passengerside went in like a breeze. Was your vehicle stock? Thanks!
This thread is so old that these are not even the current TSP headers or y pipe.
I can't remember if I changed out the motor mounts when I did that or not. I remember getting really angry with a bunch of choice words being said. I think we got them in there without removing them, that might be the side one of my friends got in. I think we might have used a grinding wheel to remove some surrounding material. it was a bunch of twisting and tricky moving to get it in, and multiple people helping is a plus.
Oh btw that car is mangled in the garage RIP
Aaww dam! Sorry to hear about your car. Thanks for the quick reply!
I helped a friend do his TSP 1 7/8 headers and poly mounts last week. The only problem we ran into was jacking the motor up high enough to get the headers to slide into place.
First we did the poly mounts and of course it was a bitch to get them lined up to get the bolts in. When we finally got the bolts in, there was not enough room to slide the headers. So we had to remove the motor mount bolts, jack the motor up from the oil pan, and then we were able to get the headers in place. After that, we had a hell of a time lining up the motor mounts again to get the bolts back in again. It made it worse with the headers in the way.
We already had the steering shaft off, oil filter and drain plug and starter removed so it was still a tight fit. It was cold in the garage lying on the concrete and that made things worse. A nice warm day would have made everything go a little easier. However once everything was back together, they fit and looked great with no clearance issues.
Agree 100%, install is a bitch.
Just installed a set of tsp 1 7/8, had the car lifted on ramps and bricks front and rear, and at least 3 ft off the ground in the front , passenger side went in like butter didn't remove anything just loosened the coil pack. However drivers side was a pain the ***, did everything you described and only way in was through the top, attempted to grind down the k member but felt I needed to remove at least 1/2". Once it was in place (unbolted) I bolted the motor mount and alt. Everything else was smooth after those. Only installed one new rubber motor mount, will replace both with poly's soon. I should have waited and done the motor mounts as everyone has been saying smh.
Is there anyone who is successfully running the latest version of Texas Speed's Y-pipe with a Spohn Adjustable Chassis Mounted Torque Arm w/Driveshaft Loop for cars with Long Tube Headers?
I need to replace the Jet Hot Headers and Y-pipe that were on my car and I'm attempting to find a set that will work with my existing Suspension setup which includes the aforementioned Spohn Torque Arm.
It seems as though the merge on the Texas Speed Y-pipe takes up a lot of real estate in the area where the Cross Member & Driveshaft Loop are mounted to the underbody and I'd like to know if anyone has made this work or if I'm about to cause myself a lot of headache.
Is there anyone who is successfully running the latest version of Texas Speed's Y-pipe with a Spohn Adjustable Chassis Mounted Torque Arm w/Driveshaft Loop for cars with Long Tube Headers?
I need to replace the Jet Hot Headers and Y-pipe that were on my car and I'm attempting to find a set that will work with my existing Suspension setup which includes the aforementioned Spohn Torque Arm.
It seems as though the merge on the Texas Speed Y-pipe takes up a lot of real estate in the area where the Cross Member & Driveshaft Loop are mounted to the underbody and I'd like to know if anyone has made this work or if I'm about to cause myself a lot of headache.
Yes. It appears this setup will work together with the latest Texas Speed Catted Y-pipe.
I test fit my 1 7/8" Texas Speed Headers this past weekend. (Getting the Passenger side #2 Primary to not contact the K-member required a significant amount of clearancing. I'll address this shortly.) I'm planning to have the headers coated, so prior to removing them, I mocked up the Y-pipe. I didn't have everything put together as it will be once the pieces become permanent, but I'm 99% sure there will be sufficient room for the merge without it coming in contact with the Underbody Brace/Torque Arm Mount and Driveshaft Loop.
Yeah, I get that I'm attempting to breath life into a very old thread. However, rather than start a new one, I thought it best to add to this existing resource that many, I hope, are still using.
Anyways, as I mentioned in my previous post, I had to do some serious cutting to my K-member to get the Passenger side Header of my new Texas Speed 1 7/8" Long Tubes to fit properly in my '99 Formula. I'm curious if others are experiencing this issue.
Full disclosure, the vehicle these are headers are being installed on was in an accident that resulted in some serious damage to the passenger front of the car. This damage has been repaired by professionals. This includes frame straightening, compromised structural components cut from the car & replaced with pieces from a donor vehicle and a second session on the frame straightener to insure that it is as close to factory specs as it can be.
Here are a couple of pictures. I have more cutting to do before my brother and I create & weld in a patch to reinforce the area with material removed, but these photos will give you a good representation of what had to be done.
Anybody else experience this fitment issue with the latest version of Texas Speed 1 7/8" Long Tubes?
Getting the header into the engine bay isn't a problem at all. As you mentioned Bspeck82, it slips right in from the bottom. However, when the Header is secured into place on the head, it comes into contact with the K-member, preventing it from being able to seal properly. Sectioning the K-member allows for the header to position correctly and create a proper seal. I was just curious if others had needed to go to these lengths to make these headers fit as well.
I was able to do a little more digging into this issue this weekend and have discovered that my K-member may be compromised. By taking a few measurements of this one and comparing it to measurements of a K-member in an additional donor car, I've found differences.
I'm now on a path to attempt to swap the K-members from one car to the other. I would very much like to purchase an aftermarket piece from UMI, but prior to that I want to know if its possible to simply swap another factory piece in place before spending money on an aftermarket unit and discovering the chassis still isn't straight enough to accept it.
This thread isn't the appropriate place for updates on that. So I'll have this be my final post about this issue for a while.
Getting the header into the engine bay isn't a problem at all. As you mentioned Bspeck82, it slips right in from the bottom. However, when the Header is secured into place on the head, it comes into contact with the K-member, preventing it from being able to seal properly. Sectioning the K-member allows for the header to position correctly and create a proper seal. I was just curious if others had needed to go to these lengths to make these headers fit as well.
I was able to do a little more digging into this issue this weekend and have discovered that my K-member may be compromised. By taking a few measurements of this one and comparing it to measurements of a K-member in an additional donor car, I've found differences.
I'm now on a path to attempt to swap the K-members from one car to the other. I would very much like to purchase an aftermarket piece from UMI, but prior to that I want to know if its possible to simply swap another factory piece in place before spending money on an aftermarket unit and discovering the chassis still isn't straight enough to accept it.
This thread isn't the appropriate place for updates on that. So I'll have this be my final post about this issue for a while.
Right I get what you are saying, the answer is no cutting the k member is not necessary, so you have an issue, as you have said. if it's all tweaked who says another k member will bolt in?
Right I get what you are saying, the answer is no cutting the k member is not necessary, so you have an issue, as you have said. if it's all tweaked who says another k member will bolt in?
You are exactly right. And that's what I'm planning to find out by attempting this swap.
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