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stock rocker tightneing

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Old Feb 3, 2012 | 03:48 PM
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Default stock rocker tightneing

can you just put the pushrods in put the rockers on and then torque them all to 22 ft/lbs? or does the crank need to be at a specific point when tightening them. im aware that you are supposed to tighten the rocker when its on its base circle. I have done it the base circle way before but this time i just torqued them all at one time with the crank in one position... turned the motor over and all seems good. sounds good?

stock cam, stock rockers, stock pushrods, stock lifters
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Old Feb 3, 2012 | 06:15 PM
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I like to have each cylinder at tdc/both valves closed. Then I know that the torqueing was completed with no spring pressure, and all of the rockers have been tightened exactly the same.
If I remember correctly, LS1howto shows a method that allows the rockers to be tightened @ 22lbs, no matter what position the valves are in. Just my opinion, but I would think that this method would have skewed results.
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Old Feb 3, 2012 | 06:30 PM
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I always do it on the base circle, that way i know that the lifter is all the way down. But on the other hand the 22 ft. Lbs is far more than what it takes to compress the spring cup in the lifter. I dont know if there really is a difference, but I will play it safe and do it on the base circle.
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Old Feb 3, 2012 | 07:54 PM
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I did mine not on the base and didnt have an issue, but i didnt know any better.
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 02:15 AM
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There is a certain way to do it as per gm. But I always go with the EOIC method. Works every time.
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 03:59 AM
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With stock springs you're fine to just torque them all down. Those springs don't have very much pressure. Is it the correct way? No, but you can. When I got my Patriot Duals and Scorpion Rockers I did each one on the base circle using the TDC method. The biggest reason people use this method is for fear of stripping threads in the aluminum head. I personally haven't heard of it happening to anyone though.
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 07:06 AM
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Wow...there is stupidity all over this thread...

Using any spring, if you torque it down with the valve part way up or down the lobe, your going to have the spring trying to close the valve and putting more resistance on the bolt giving you a false torque reading!

There is a reason for methods and procedures. And it's not so we can dream up ways around them in our spare time.
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 07:35 AM
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1) Install the rocker arms and bolts.

2) Rotate the Crankshaft until the number one piston is at top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke. In this position, Cylinder number one rocker arms will be off lobe lift, and the Crankshaft sprocket key will be at the 1:30 position. The engine firing order is 1,8,7,2,6,5,4,3. Cylinders 1,3,5 and 7 are left bank. Cylinder 2,4,6 and 8 are right bank.

3) With the engine in the number one firing position, tighten the following rocker arm bolts:

* Tighten the exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 1,2,7 and 8 to 30 N.m (22lb ft).

* Tighten the intake valve rocker arm bolts 1,3,4 and 5 to N.m (22lb ft).

4) Rotate the Crankshaft 360 degrees.

5) Tighten the following valve rocker arm bolts:

* Tighten the exhaust valve rocker arm bolts 3,4,5 and 6 to N.m (22lb ft).

* Tighten the intake valve rocker arm bolts 2,6,7 and 8 to N.m (22lb ft).

At this point you should be done!!!
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 08:46 AM
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 09:09 AM
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This should be stickied!
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