alternator problem
alternator problem So I have a transplanted 2000 ls1 and cant to get my alternator to charge. I did a search and stlll cant figure it out.
I have pin B connected to R15 and I comfirmed that its not a broken wire.
I also have a positive on wire on the rear post.
I have also had the alternator checked 3 times and its functions correctly
However I still can not get it to charge.
Is there any voltage that should be coming from the pin R15 or is that a ground?
Anybody have any Ideas?
I have pin B connected to R15 and I comfirmed that its not a broken wire.
I also have a positive on wire on the rear post.
I have also had the alternator checked 3 times and its functions correctly
However I still can not get it to charge.
Is there any voltage that should be coming from the pin R15 or is that a ground?
Anybody have any Ideas?
I was reading the manual for my 98, and it says that the red lead should have at least 4.5v. After this, the alternator should produce.
Other than verifying that charging system fuses are intact, it states that the alternator is defective.
Someone more experienced can chime in here.
Also, John @ Speartech (a sponsor) has been a big help to many here. You might send him an email.
Other than verifying that charging system fuses are intact, it states that the alternator is defective.
Someone more experienced can chime in here.
Also, John @ Speartech (a sponsor) has been a big help to many here. You might send him an email.
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Verdad Gallardo Mikey, Here is an interesting thread, especially paragraph 3 of the first post.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ng-me-off.html
I might remove the exciter wire & test for voltage on it while gently moving it.
I'd prob turn off the engine before reconnecting the exciter harness.
Here's one more....the solution is not mentioned in the thread. I've sent an email to the OP to ask if he solved this.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-charging.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ng-me-off.html
I might remove the exciter wire & test for voltage on it while gently moving it.
I'd prob turn off the engine before reconnecting the exciter harness.
Here's one more....the solution is not mentioned in the thread. I've sent an email to the OP to ask if he solved this.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-charging.html
Last edited by gMAG; Feb 16, 2012 at 05:09 PM.
I'm not sure where you were checking for alt output (checked at the battery?)
Do you have a way of checking for voltage directly off the alternator pin, where the battery cable connects?
Possible bad battery, not accepting a charge?
Do you have a way of checking for voltage directly off the alternator pin, where the battery cable connects?
Possible bad battery, not accepting a charge?
well I found if I give 10volts to pin b and 12volts to pin c it kicks right up if I take away the voltage from pin c it will stay running good until I shutdown the car and I have to do it all over again.
Mikey,
This is a reply from John @ Speartech, to my question about exciter voltage.
As follows....
Glenn,
I don't know the exact range of the turn-on voltage; somewhere in the 4-9 volt range I believe.
Once the engine is up and running the signal is sent by the PCM (or just the ignition switch thru the 470 ohm resistor) and the generator turns on. The turn-on voltage is simply to turn on the generator and has nothing to do with regulation or voltage output on the earlier systems.
All voltage regulation is handled internally by the generator. That's what the regulator does. It controls the voltage output based on load, operating temperature, etc. The PCM doesn't control any of that.
Some of the newer systems do it differently, and the ECM has more control over what's going on, but for the LS1's and most swaps it's easier to just wire it up so it turns on with the engine, and let the regulator do the rest.
John
Speartech Fuel Injection Systems, Inc.
I wanted to add that mine is prob wired as per the last paragraph. Here's why...Since Speartech modified my stand-alone harness, I no longer have the fuse & alternate wiring (dash light) as described in my 98 schematic.
From here, I would try wiring the switched 12v source to the 470 ohm resistor...then wire to the pin on your alternator.
This is a reply from John @ Speartech, to my question about exciter voltage.
As follows....
Glenn,
I don't know the exact range of the turn-on voltage; somewhere in the 4-9 volt range I believe.
Once the engine is up and running the signal is sent by the PCM (or just the ignition switch thru the 470 ohm resistor) and the generator turns on. The turn-on voltage is simply to turn on the generator and has nothing to do with regulation or voltage output on the earlier systems.
All voltage regulation is handled internally by the generator. That's what the regulator does. It controls the voltage output based on load, operating temperature, etc. The PCM doesn't control any of that.
Some of the newer systems do it differently, and the ECM has more control over what's going on, but for the LS1's and most swaps it's easier to just wire it up so it turns on with the engine, and let the regulator do the rest.
John
Speartech Fuel Injection Systems, Inc.
I wanted to add that mine is prob wired as per the last paragraph. Here's why...Since Speartech modified my stand-alone harness, I no longer have the fuse & alternate wiring (dash light) as described in my 98 schematic.
From here, I would try wiring the switched 12v source to the 470 ohm resistor...then wire to the pin on your alternator.
Last edited by gMAG; Feb 27, 2012 at 04:46 PM.
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Yes I had the same problem hopefull this will help someone; well my car will start perfect but on the dash it will show it wasnt charging so basically it was just running off the battery. Bought new battery no change , new alternator no change , check wires grounds etc . Pretty stressful come to find out it was the alternator wire it was somehow the wire was gone .So I cut it re-wire it with a new plug and wah-La magic battery received charge !!
