Harmonic balancer won't go all the way
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 221
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From: Colorado
Harmonic balancer won't go all the way To add to the list of walls I've ran into with my cam swap after everything is all wrapped up and done we get to the balancer and what do ya know it won't go in all the way....
I have tried multiple methods, anti siezed the crank snout, heated up the pulley, hammered in the pulleys center with a mallet, hell even bought an under drive and everytime It goes to the same spot.... Just shy of where it's supposed to be... It's not hitting on anything and has been verified but it just won't go...
Any tips before this pulley goes to the machine shop?
I have tried multiple methods, anti siezed the crank snout, heated up the pulley, hammered in the pulleys center with a mallet, hell even bought an under drive and everytime It goes to the same spot.... Just shy of where it's supposed to be... It's not hitting on anything and has been verified but it just won't go...
Any tips before this pulley goes to the machine shop?
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
Yes, it's kind of ghetto rigged but has worked for 4 ls cam swaps before this one. Never had any problem like this with that tool but when you thread it in to that point the threads on the tool begin to strip...
you should be able to pull the pulley on with the crank bolt, ive done it numerous times with no problems. you should buy a 120mm crank bolt from gm instead of the original one. i believe it is 100mm which risks stripping threads.
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Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 221
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From: Colorado
I have 3 different bolts and they all thread in fine so crank threads are fine as of right now.
If I were to throw on the front cover yea it might seal but all of the belts would be off a bit.... I read that you can use a bottle jack but there isn't really anywhere you can safely...
It still shouldn't be catchin on anything the crank snout is clear and smooth. I guess machining is the only way out of this right? I havent baked the under drive yet so maybe I'll try that tomorrow.
If I were to throw on the front cover yea it might seal but all of the belts would be off a bit.... I read that you can use a bottle jack but there isn't really anywhere you can safely...
It still shouldn't be catchin on anything the crank snout is clear and smooth. I guess machining is the only way out of this right? I havent baked the under drive yet so maybe I'll try that tomorrow.
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Verdad Gallardo I would definately try another bolt if the installer you are using has some threads stripped already. I've never had to machine any pulley's to get them to go on and with the ls crank not being keyed i don't know if that would be the smartest thing to do.
The only thing i could really think of is the pulley is not starting perfectly straight on the snout. You said you tapped it with a hammer so if it's getting cocked on the crank it could be binding up at the certain point you are talking about.
I've heard the oven trick works great, i've personally never used it, but it's worth a shot. Let us know when you get it figured out, good luck.
The only thing i could really think of is the pulley is not starting perfectly straight on the snout. You said you tapped it with a hammer so if it's getting cocked on the crank it could be binding up at the certain point you are talking about.
I've heard the oven trick works great, i've personally never used it, but it's worth a shot. Let us know when you get it figured out, good luck.
Had a similar trouble with a March balancer.
The pressure required to seat the balancer was so great, that I bent several stacked, grade 8 washers.
I saw a tip on here a couple of years ago...the guy used a wheel bearing (& lots of grease) in between the bolt on the tool & the washers (the front of the balancer).
You might try measuring the opening on the front of the balancer, get some washers, and get a wheel bearing from AutoZone. Figure out what diameter bearing you'll need, and have AZ pick the appropriate bearing.
In my case, the bearing removed enough of the friction so that the torque I applied was transferred to the balancer...rather than bending the washers. I have to add that after removing & reinstalling that darned balancer a couple of times, that it eventually went on easier.
The other side to this is that eventually, you'll want to remove that balancer.
Keep this in mind if deciding whether machining the balancer is the better way to go.
Good luck.
The pressure required to seat the balancer was so great, that I bent several stacked, grade 8 washers.
I saw a tip on here a couple of years ago...the guy used a wheel bearing (& lots of grease) in between the bolt on the tool & the washers (the front of the balancer).
You might try measuring the opening on the front of the balancer, get some washers, and get a wheel bearing from AutoZone. Figure out what diameter bearing you'll need, and have AZ pick the appropriate bearing.
In my case, the bearing removed enough of the friction so that the torque I applied was transferred to the balancer...rather than bending the washers. I have to add that after removing & reinstalling that darned balancer a couple of times, that it eventually went on easier.
The other side to this is that eventually, you'll want to remove that balancer.
Keep this in mind if deciding whether machining the balancer is the better way to go.
Good luck.
Last edited by gMAG; Mar 1, 2012 at 07:25 PM.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
Gonna go pick up another all thread tomorrow and try the heat, I was thinking it was getting cocked from the start too but on both pulleys? Seems kind of hard... May try the wheel bearing depending on cost... Oh and the crank is keyed lol
this i had the same problem installing my ati. I called ati and they said to put the balancer in the oven at 250 degrees for 30 mins,well my oven doesnt go that low so instead I used a propane torch and heated just the metal hub on the balancer for about 10 minutes. after this I used a pair of heat gloves and the balancer literally just fell onto the crank. then I just tightened it up with a new bolt.
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Stop giving advice. You won't repair his crank threads if they get torn up, so why give advice like this?
How about getting the right tool? The Hawks tool has a bearing along the thrust face to combat tough installations. Put the front cover back on also.
How about getting the right tool? The Hawks tool has a bearing along the thrust face to combat tough installations. Put the front cover back on also.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
From: Colorado
Oh yea guys, got it on!
Solution(s): new installer thread, got a way stronger grade.
Plus +: baking the under drive pulley
Plus +: anti seize on crank snout
_____________________________
One cammed TA finished and a happy owner =]
Solution(s): new installer thread, got a way stronger grade.
Plus +: baking the under drive pulley
Plus +: anti seize on crank snout
_____________________________
One cammed TA finished and a happy owner =]
