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Why not solder on universal O2 sensor instead?

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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 01:15 PM
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Question Why not solder on universal O2 sensor instead?

Just out of curiosity, is there a reason one should choose to purchase an extended wire O2 sensor with the connector already on it, such as the Bosch 13111 instead of just buying the same sensor as a "universal" for much cheaper and just soldering on the wire and connector from an old one?

I ask because my car already has 2 Bosch 13111 and it would cost half as much to just wire/solder up the wires off those onto two new "universal" Bosch sensors.

I did this with my 3000GT a few years ago, but it also is an unmodified car.
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 02:45 PM
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The only reason i know of is that o2 sensors operate on very low voltage and are critical to your efi working properly. A poor quality connection would not properly transmit the signal and could throw off fuel trims leading to an overly lean or rich condition. Sensors are only $60-$70 EA. Not a place that I personally would chose to try and save $60.
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 03:19 PM
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The reason you don't solder the pigtail too close to the O2 sensor is because the O2 sensor gets its free air reference oxygen thru the pigtail (i.e. seeps in thru the wiring).
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 04:32 PM
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Enough BS.
Dont try to solder the wires on the O2 sensor because the wires have a very high nickle content and the solder will not wick onto the wires leaving you with a very weak electrical connection and not providing a good signal after the wires get any use especially in humid weather. Crimp connectors makeit even worse. Adding heat shrink tubing to an already weak connection is just covering up a problem. If you dont believe me, try soldering to chrome; it wont work.
Rather, buy o2's with the connectors already on them and extend or shorten the EFI harness copper wires to the length needed. Copper can be easily soldered onto.
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 07:00 PM
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Like was said, its all about the quality of the connection. You raise the resistance even by a little bit, and the computer will try to compensate for it.

A perfect example is when I had my 04 Lightning. An idiot worked on it, and used crimp connectors on the 02 wires to my headers. I kept getting a lean code, yet my plugs were black. The PCM saw lean, due to the **** connection, and over compensated by running that bank stupid rich.
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 07:20 PM
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From the GM Service Manual (any year/model):
Heated Oxygen Sensor Replacement - Bank 1 Sensor 1

Notice: Do not remove the pigtail from either the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) or the oxygen sensor (O2S). Removing the pigtail or the connector will affect sensor operation.

Handle the oxygen sensor carefully. Do not drop the HO2S. Keep the in-line electrical connector and the louvered end free of grease, dirt, or other contaminants. Do not use cleaning solvents of any type.

Do not repair the wiring, connector or terminals. Replace the oxygen sensor if the pigtail wiring, connector, or terminal is damaged.


This external clean air reference is obtained by way of the oxygen sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt to repair the wires, connectors, or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and degraded sensor performance.

The following guidelines should be used when servicing the heated oxygen sensor:
. . .
. . .
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 07:31 PM
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Also see this: http://apps.bosch.com.au/motorsport/...xygenlsm11.pdf
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 08:08 PM
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Fair enough. Thanks for the quick replies.
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