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ls1 to ls6 intake swap questions

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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 09:01 PM
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Default ls1 to ls6 intake swap questions

i am doing an intake swap in a 99 c5 are there any other mods that i need to do or will it bolt right on.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 02:58 AM
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you will need to decide on how to deal with the coolant tubes. the easiest way it to remove the ribs from under neath the LS6 intake. you do not even have to remove them all. put grease on the coolant tube and set the intake in place, then whichever rib has grease on it when you pull the intake back off just remove that one. it wont do anything to the intake itself. there is also a crossover tube that you can buy that removes the coolant tubes under the intake but it blocks coolant flow somewhat to the rear of the cylinders. new gaskets are also a good idea. while you have access you might want to go ahead and install a new oil pressure sender and I believe there was a TSB about knock sensors under the intake. something about sealing them with RTV to keep water out. there are hard plastic lines on the back of the intake that go to the HVAC. those are very easy to break and are very short making install difficult so the best way to get around it is to put about 6 inches of flexible vacuum tubing inline between the hard plastic and the intake connection point to give you some room to work with. you will know you have it right when you crank it back up and your HVAC switches from vent to defrost to floor. if you havent dont the coolant bypass mod for the throttle body yet you have a coolant line running through the bottom of the throttle body so you will need to work around that as well.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 10:38 AM
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I just grinded the ribs off the bottom of the intake. I also broke the Oil Pressure Sending Unit, so I replaced that as well.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 11:58 AM
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http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=5

^That should help you out.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 04:27 PM
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All you really need, that you probably don't have is a 3 or 5/8 fuel dissconect tool. It makes it easier to swap the injectors. Other than that everything will swap right over with a couple of tools.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 04:38 PM
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I did it on my trans Am, First time i pulled of the ls1 i broke the oil pressure unit haha. I think everyone does on their first time out. But after the first time swapping it gets easier. Just take your time and have patience and check the PVC lines too make sure they are not broken.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 11:52 PM
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thanks for all the help guys. ill give it a try
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 06:51 AM
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where the oil pressure sensor that a lot of people break , gonna be doing the ls6 swap tonight or in a few days.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ramairetransam
where the oil pressure sensor that a lot of people break , gonna be doing the ls6 swap tonight or in a few days.
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 01:39 PM
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thank you very much .
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 01:39 PM
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and also how do i not break up , do i have to make sure to lift up enough ?
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Old Mar 22, 2012 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ramairetransam
where the oil pressure sensor that a lot of people break , gonna be doing the ls6 swap tonight or in a few days.
easiest way is to buy its socket from any part store and you can cap it while removing the intake, you dont even need to think of it when doing this and its only around 3$
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 10:49 AM
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ive never had any issues with breaking the oil pressure sensor. ive had the intake off several times before doing h/c swap, and knock sensor replacement. just gotta be aware of its location.
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Old Mar 23, 2012 | 12:56 PM
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I didnt disconnect my fuel lines, just pulled the whole fuel rail out and pushed it to the side, I was careful and still broke the damned OPSU. like aleady mentioned get the socket that fits over reach back there and put it on before you take the intake out. you can also break it putting the intake back on.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by LT1SS
ive never had any issues with breaking the oil pressure sensor. ive had the intake off several times before doing h/c swap, and knock sensor replacement. just gotta be aware of its location.
I agree
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 08:20 PM
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If you grab the brake booster tube and pull that around first then pull the intake up and forward you will not break the opsu
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 08:33 PM
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Idk how anybody could possibly break the OPSU. I have done the intake swap about 10 times now with zero issues. I just did it again the other day and from removal of the old one and install of the new one took about 35 mins. Just pull the intake out slowly and disconnect the sensor and the vacuum line on the back and guide the brake booster smoothly and you will have no problem. Same way going back in. Set it in there a little past half way and connect your vacuum line and sensor, and than guide the brake booster hose behind your wires. Before start up do a quick check and make sure everything is connected. Start it up and listen for vacuum leaks and than you're done. Good luck
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 08:00 AM
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My Oil pressure unit was so brittle (from age?) I barely touched it and it snapped off...

It might save you some trouble to go ahead and buy one from Autozone or wherever, just in case, and return it if you don't need it.

Oh and the cowl will eat your hands lol
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 09:08 AM
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has anyone ever removed the cowl when doing an intake swap? would there be any benefit as to more room to work with?
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Old Mar 26, 2012 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by '00_Z
has anyone ever removed the cowl when doing an intake swap? would there be any benefit as to more room to work with?
Honestly man, I would never go through the trouble to do that. I did my manifold swap in just a few hours, very easy job. The cowl removal would make it easier, but it would add more time for a job that's perfectly doable in 2 hours or less with the cowl in. Just my opinion though. Just DONT pull the manifold toward you AT ALL! When you get it unbolted or even before if you can, reach around the back and pull the brake booster line out. I was as careful as possible and only pulled the manifold about half inch toward me for easier access to the lines and the brake booster line still ripped the oil pressure sending unit off
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