Solid motor mount install, talk about a nightmare!
#21
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i did my mounts today and ran into the same problem of not getting one side to line up. i was getting so excited about almost being finished and i tightened the passenger side to much and i cant get the driver side mounts on the k frame to line up. now im sure i have to go back and loosen the pass side so i can move the driver side enough to line up. i hate my life right now
#22
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[QUOTE=dr_whigham;16127502]It raised my motor (Spohn's) but it doesn't bother me at all.
Dr.,
I also sent you a private message.
My questions:
1. Can you specify a little further on how you supported the engine with the 2x4? My left motor mount is off and my engine is way far back now? Do I need to get an engine hoist or could your method work with the 2x4? Do I jack the engine like you said and remove both motor mounts to finagle or should I do one at a time?
2. If I get solid mounts instead, do I install them first and then the headers? I may get the solid mounts due to the room advantage.
3. Lastly, should I install the solid mounts to the engine and then tighten them to the K member? Or, do you put them on the K member first then the engine?
Sorry, I feel that I am a good mechanic, but this job is kicking my a%%.
Thanks
Dr.,
I also sent you a private message.
My questions:
1. Can you specify a little further on how you supported the engine with the 2x4? My left motor mount is off and my engine is way far back now? Do I need to get an engine hoist or could your method work with the 2x4? Do I jack the engine like you said and remove both motor mounts to finagle or should I do one at a time?
2. If I get solid mounts instead, do I install them first and then the headers? I may get the solid mounts due to the room advantage.
3. Lastly, should I install the solid mounts to the engine and then tighten them to the K member? Or, do you put them on the K member first then the engine?
Sorry, I feel that I am a good mechanic, but this job is kicking my a%%.
Thanks
#23
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I just did this job (2 days) with the transmission completely out of the car.
I was putting in headers so I had ABSOLUTELY NOTHING in my way.
first off I put regular rubber mounts in, I wish I did solid because
I WILL NEVER DO THIS JOB AGAIN. I will drop the K member and do other stuff.
I have never hated doing a job more in my life. I have never had bolts so absolutely difficult to get back in. (motor stand 15MM ones)
mind you I did this on my lift. no transmission. no exhaust in my way.
I put them in with the large connecting bolt tightened. I placed them in and loosely tightened all 4 stand bolts by hand. (**** these bolts)
I had motor lifted by oil pan via hydrolic lift and placed it down on the mounts slowly and smashed it this way and that to align it.
I used a screw driver to pry the holes for the mount to line up.
after motor mount was done I put headers in.
I regret not doing solids. I will never in my life do this job again!!
car can sit with my other not getting fixed camaro
job was for a 2000 camaro
I was putting in headers so I had ABSOLUTELY NOTHING in my way.
first off I put regular rubber mounts in, I wish I did solid because
I WILL NEVER DO THIS JOB AGAIN. I will drop the K member and do other stuff.
I have never hated doing a job more in my life. I have never had bolts so absolutely difficult to get back in. (motor stand 15MM ones)
mind you I did this on my lift. no transmission. no exhaust in my way.
I put them in with the large connecting bolt tightened. I placed them in and loosely tightened all 4 stand bolts by hand. (**** these bolts)
I had motor lifted by oil pan via hydrolic lift and placed it down on the mounts slowly and smashed it this way and that to align it.
I used a screw driver to pry the holes for the mount to line up.
after motor mount was done I put headers in.
I regret not doing solids. I will never in my life do this job again!!
car can sit with my other not getting fixed camaro
job was for a 2000 camaro
#24
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I got the bolt through on the drivers side, then used the tire jack to force the holes in the passenger side to line up. It wasn't too bad at all. Sorry you had such a time with it
#25
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I would have to agree.
I am a pretty good mechanic, but the motor mounts are a royal pain in the a$$. My clamshells with polys installed will be for sale on ebay very soon. I will use the poly on the trans bolt, but that is it.
I am a pretty good mechanic, but the motor mounts are a royal pain in the a$$. My clamshells with polys installed will be for sale on ebay very soon. I will use the poly on the trans bolt, but that is it.
#26
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I too had a difficult time getting the UMI solids to line up. Took a 300 lbs guy with a digging iron to force things around enough to get the bolts to line up.
I think I remember reading that a batch of the UMI mounts had the orientation arrow machined wrong on the passenger side. That would explain a lot of my frustrations if it were true.
I think I remember reading that a batch of the UMI mounts had the orientation arrow machined wrong on the passenger side. That would explain a lot of my frustrations if it were true.
#27
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I too had a difficult time getting the UMI solids to line up. Took a 300 lbs guy with a digging iron to force things around enough to get the bolts to line up.
I think I remember reading that a batch of the UMI mounts had the orientation arrow machined wrong on the passenger side. That would explain a lot of my frustrations if it were true.
I think I remember reading that a batch of the UMI mounts had the orientation arrow machined wrong on the passenger side. That would explain a lot of my frustrations if it were true.
#28
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Thanks all for the tips.
Are you using poly or stock for T56 mount? I'd imagine all the rigidity is a bit harder on manual cars during hard shifts. I'd prefer to use poly but snapping a tail shaft doesn't sound fun.
Also, what's the feel between the Hawks aluminum mounts and the UMI? Hawks are about $30 less and look the same with the same description.
Thanks.
Are you using poly or stock for T56 mount? I'd imagine all the rigidity is a bit harder on manual cars during hard shifts. I'd prefer to use poly but snapping a tail shaft doesn't sound fun.
Also, what's the feel between the Hawks aluminum mounts and the UMI? Hawks are about $30 less and look the same with the same description.
Thanks.
Last edited by CoolAid; 07-31-2015 at 08:53 AM.
#30
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I've had 0 issues installing 2 sets of UMI solid mounts. I completely removed the frame stands and stock mounts from the car to start the install. I had no idea which way the arrows on the UMI mounts were supposed to face. I just put them on the frame stands way that looked/felt right. Then I put the mount assemblies into the car to make sure all the bolt holes lined up on both sides of the engine at the same time. Then I started threading all of the bolts in all locations. I did NOT tighten any bolts until I had both sides in and rested the weight of the engine onto the mount assemblies. The last bolts to tighten are the 2 large bolts that hold the mounts to the frame stands.
#31
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Yup, I did not have any issues when I went to the Spohn solid mounts. The best tip that I was given was to use a 2x4 on its tall end right in front of the oil pan drain plug. I put the car on jack stands all the way around.