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Motor mount install question.

Old Apr 8, 2012 | 12:45 PM
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Default Motor mount install question.

I'm about to do heads/cam on my camaro and I've been reading on LS1howto and a few write ups on how to do the motor mounts. I've seen where people were saying it took them 20-25 hours just for motor mounts. If I've got the heads and all the other neccessary parts for the heads/cam install off will it still be such a bitch? I understand its rough but I've got 3 days to do my heads/cam/mount install and I don't want to bite off more than I can chew. If its that hard I may just do the mounts after I get it home. Any tips on installing the mounts is appreciated to. Thanks
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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 01:06 PM
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with the help of a friend we did mine in a couple hours. i had the a/c compressor off and bracket off already and i had to remove my alt and i un bolted my driver side header to move it out a bit to remove one of the bolts holding the mount on.

i really dont see what all the fuss is about when people say there a bitch to do. we weren't even working that hard and were bullshitting with one another most of the time. poly mounts btw. its harder in my book to do a dual spring swap while motor is still in the car then to do mounts.
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Old Apr 8, 2012 | 11:41 PM
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I did mine with the radiator out and all the accessories out of the way. I sat on my *** between the motor and the front bumper and did mine in probably 2 hours by myself. I did the Spohn solids so all I had to do was unbolt the whole stand and put the new one in. Might not have been able to do the clam shells the way I did mine I don't know.
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 04:27 PM
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I read a write up before I did mine that saved me a billion hours lol. I did mine in an hour with out moving any accessories. If you take out the pedestal and the mount at the same time then there is no need to move any accessories out of the way. Best advice I ever got. The only reason you move the accessories is to get out the long pedestal bolt. But if you dont take that bolt out until the mount and pedestal are out of the car then you have no reason to move anything. Not to mention it is was easier to line the holes back up when you do it that way. Everyone talks like headers and motor mounts are the worse thing in the world. Either my car was different or I read way to many write ups but I thought it was pretty easy and painless. And was done it all in roughly 8 hours. With breaks. I will say this. The 4 bolts one each side that hold the clamshells to the block are hard to get a wrench or socket on so you will probly only be able to do a 1/4 turn at a time. This is where having the right tools for the job comes in.
GEAR WRENCH! an lsx owners BEST friend!
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 04:29 PM
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Also. Some of the rivets are flat so have a punch and hammer ready to make a dent in the middle for your drill bit to sit in or you will have a hell of a time drilling through them. Also make sure your bits are sharp or it takes forever. Any other questions or anything feel free to pm me. Just did em about a month or so ago so everything is fresh in my mind still. Hope this helps,
Mike
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by evilz99
I read a write up before I did mine that saved me a billion hours lol. I did mine in an hour with out moving any accessories. If you take out the pedestal and the mount at the same time then there is no need to move any accessories out of the way. Best advice I ever got. The only reason you move the accessories is to get out the long pedestal bolt. But if you dont take that bolt out until the mount and pedestal are out of the car then you have no reason to move anything. Not to mention it is was easier to line the holes back up when you do it that way. Everyone talks like headers and motor mounts are the worse thing in the world. Either my car was different or I read way to many write ups but I thought it was pretty easy and painless. And was done it all in roughly 8 hours. With breaks. I will say this. The 4 bolts one each side that hold the clamshells to the block are hard to get a wrench or socket on so you will probly only be able to do a 1/4 turn at a time. This is where having the right tools for the job comes in.
GEAR WRENCH! an lsx owners BEST friend!
I think doing it this way would be a good idea. Since GM decided to put the motor mount bolts in from the front it makes it impossible to get the long bolts out without moving the accessories. I would give this method a try as to me it seems more logical than removing all the accessories to get these 2 bolts out.
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 09:20 PM
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Well I started the heads/cam/mounts today and I've got the intake, heads, headers, and all the accessories lose from the engine. The only thing still bolted to the engine is the a/c compressor bracket. The compressor is all ready resting on the sway bar and the alternator is out of the way. It looks like a open shot from the top.
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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 10:58 PM
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I'm thinking I might have taken off my steering knuckle when I did mine too. FWIW
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Old Apr 14, 2012 | 12:38 PM
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Yeah I took my steering shaft off too but that was just to slide the headers in from the bottom. I glad that I typed all that stuff above for him to just take the accessories off anyway lol and I even typed all that on my phone... well maybe it will help someone.. All I know is I did mine superquick with that method.. You can lead a horse to water but cant make him drink lol

Last edited by evilz99; Apr 14, 2012 at 12:39 PM. Reason: spell correct
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 10:04 AM
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I didn't get to read this before I had it taken apart lol. I actually just put it back together with the intentions of leaving it alone but one of my headers won't seal so I had to pull it anyway so I'm going to do them the way you wrote. Seems alot easier than taking everything off. Both headers are off.
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 11:08 AM
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Sucks you gotta work at it again but glad I could help.
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Old Apr 21, 2012 | 06:37 PM
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Did it the way you said. Worked great. I couldn't imagine trying to line that center bolt up as easy as it is to just unbolt the pedestal. Thanks
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Old Apr 21, 2012 | 08:49 PM
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i just did this wednesday. installed hooker super comps and poly mms. i'd say in all reality it took me roughly 7 hours, by myself. i had already installed my mms into another set of mounts, though. i removed the a/c comp, and alt...and still ended up damn near removing the pedestals to get the motor mount bolt(s) to line up. my headers slid in fine, but i did have to knock the lip off the k where one of the driver's side primaries was making contact.
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by s346k
i just did this wednesday. installed hooker super comps and poly mms. i'd say in all reality it took me roughly 7 hours, by myself. i had already installed my mms into another set of mounts, though. i removed the a/c comp, and alt...and still ended up damn near removing the pedestals to get the motor mount bolt(s) to line up. my headers slid in fine, but i did have to knock the lip off the k where one of the driver's side primaries was making contact.
I had the same prob with the lip of my K member with my Hookers..

I'm in the process of installing Poly mm's and Kooks 1 7/8's headers. I removed the complete motor mount and reinstalled with it all together. I got one side done today, except I still have 2 I need to get in the holes on the block. I left the passenger side mm in place while I was doing the driver side. PITA!

The Kooks seem to have better clearance but I needed to remove the oil filter and steering knuckle to get it in from the bottom (with the mm out).
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 07:30 AM
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The only problem I ran into was I didn't pay attention to the mounts being side specific since they're off set. I had to redo one side and flip the mount around inside the clamshell and do it all over again lol.
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