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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 08:33 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 318z28
im screwed on the return policy from the site i got em from, they state that once they have been installed then no returns so ive got $600 worth of paper weights!!! how delightful!!!
I am building a "mock" motor/table for my office, If you want to sell them cheap...
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 09:38 PM
  #22  
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Bro this is comin from me driving my car everyday for 4 years and knowing how it performs in every way, this is probably my 4th fbody, I know where ur comin from when u say that but no I don't have tech sheets on these coils but yes I could def feel a big difference in them, would I buy em again??? Hell no cuz they're unreliable
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by bayer-z28
phickst....
Unless he has the truck coils laying around or can get a set for under $50 I wouldn't even bother with those.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 09:11 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 318z28
but yes I could def feel a big difference in them...
Even if these coils added power, at most it would be 4-5 HP-and that would be with a tune for more dwell time. Others here have done proper dyno tests which have resulted in little to no improvement.

I doubt what you felt by SOTP was from the coils.

As stated above, making the move to truck coils with a tune for them will add power and response. Truck coils are a whole different ballgame.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 10:06 AM
  #25  
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Scientifically measuring the output of a virgin coil, or seeing
some performance gain from a hotter spark is all fine and
dandy. But when the secondary breaks down its own insulation
it's toast and your science doesn't mean jack anymore.

Performance, reliability, need both, got one.

How do you get more turns in less volume? Skinny wire and
thin insulation. How do you get the heat out? Thin insulation.
What does thin insulation do? Break down easier. Fire the
coil into an open circuit, where does the current go? Path
of least resistance (internal breakdown).
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 11:55 AM
  #26  
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Sometimes sotp feel doesnt exist because your mind is set on expecting a power increase because your wallet was just raped.Just saying
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 12:12 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Redbull87
your mind is set on expecting a power increase because your wallet was just raped.
sig worthy
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 01:54 PM
  #28  
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When you guys say "truck coils" which do you mean? The square ones, or the longer ones with the heat sink in the back? I am glad I never got the msd coils!! But I do have both sets of these coils!
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 03:42 PM
  #29  
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The ones with the heat sink are the "hotter" ones.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 03:58 PM
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Thats good to know!! I think that I am going out to change them now!!
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 04:21 PM
  #31  
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The truck coils will allow you to do more. Here's everything you'll need to know about them:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ke-sticky.html
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 04:38 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by thunderstruck507
Unless he has the truck coils laying around or can get a set for under $50 I wouldn't even bother with those.
The higher rpm accuracy of the truck coils is supposed to be a lit better than the stock LS1 coils, IIRC. Was some of the reason behind chipped ring lands. Miss-fires at high R's happen faster than the PCM can pick up on ... Again, IIRC.

Come pretty good testing here: (Just wanted to post a link. Not to prove anything, just some general tolerances of each)
http://www.youtube. com/watch?v=C1WH0OExQyA&feature=player_embedded

Last edited by bayer-z28; Aug 8, 2012 at 04:56 PM.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 04:42 PM
  #33  
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The two key things about the truck coils are much higher current and longer sustainable dwell times. The dwell aspect needs to be tuned in which mail order tune shops such as pcmforless can easily do.
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Old Aug 8, 2012 | 06:03 PM
  #34  
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I am running a carb with the square coils, changed them to the better ones!! I can tell it has at least 13 1/2 more horses just by revving it up!! lol!!
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 08:54 AM
  #35  
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Funny I have the square ones on my car and changed them for the others and saw no noticeable results scanning with EFI live or at the track.

13 and a half? Really?
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 08:59 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by thunderstruck507
13 and a half? Really?
I'm certain onefast84 was kidding.

All LS coils are pretty much electrically except the truck coils with the external heat sink.

EG: Changing from square coils to round (non-truck) coils would be a lateral move without any performance/driveability differences.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 09:16 AM
  #37  
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To clarify I went from the square truck coils to the round truck coils with the heat sinks back to the square truck coils (they fit the car better).

Didn't change the dwell though. But there was no indication anything changed so I sold them because people pay good money for them.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 09:26 AM
  #38  
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Gotcha.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 11:10 AM
  #39  
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yea I was only kidding!! I have not drove it yet. I will have to do a comparision back to back next time I go to the track. I do like the square ones as far as looks.
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Old Aug 9, 2012 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by thunderstruck507
To clarify I went from the square truck coils to the round truck coils with the heat sinks back to the square truck coils (they fit the car better).

Didn't change the dwell though. But there was no indication anything changed so I sold them because people pay good money for them.
IMO, It's not going to be a hp gain we're looking for, persay... But it does produce a more reliable and accurate spark at higher RPM's.

I found a thread once that was discussing possible cause of broken ring lands and tops of pistons and was related to the inaccurate spark at higher RPMs on the LS1 coils. Their recharge rates aren't that of the LS2 coils or even the truck coils. They can't spark fast enough or accurately enough at 6500-7000rpm. The misfire happens faster than the PCM can pick up on and by the time we notice (our ears) it's too late. The chances are not really in our favor of the PCM pulling timing from picking up on a high RPM miss. Detonation should be avoided at all costs. It's not just the detonation we can hear (the worst kind) but it's the detonation that we cannot hear is where the tuner and his equipment come into play. Detonation effects a lot more than just the top of the piston. You can learn to read any main or crank bearing and tell if it's been detonating (or even if they ran nitrous.)

The thread was also speculating on our #7 cyl issues and why they seem to go out first.... All leaning AFR's aside.

Last edited by bayer-z28; Aug 9, 2012 at 08:21 PM.
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