P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire!
#1
P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire!
I have this misfire problem ONLY on cyl #6 And ONLY at idle. Any and all ideas would be very helpful in things to try.
Car is a 2001 Camaro z28 A4 with 170k miles
Car is a 2001 Camaro z28 A4 with 170k miles
#3
#4
It has been doing it since I bought it and then it was bone stock! It now has lid, filter, bo white tb, longtubes, ory, and a converter.
I tried the moving of the coil, wire and plug. No dice. But like I said, it only does this at idle and as far as I know the car didnt do alot of sitting.
I tried the moving of the coil, wire and plug. No dice. But like I said, it only does this at idle and as far as I know the car didnt do alot of sitting.
#5
It has been doing it since I bought it and then it was bone stock! It now has lid, filter, bo white tb, longtubes, ory, and a converter.
I tried the moving of the coil, wire and plug. No dice. But like I said, it only does this at idle and as far as I know the car didnt do alot of sitting.
I tried the moving of the coil, wire and plug. No dice. But like I said, it only does this at idle and as far as I know the car didnt do alot of sitting.
get an infrared thermometer, and check the exhaust temp of that cylinder. that'll give you some clue.
use a long screwdriver, and place the tip of it on that injector, then put your ear on the handle, and listen for a good solid clicking noise. compare that to the sound of one on a good cylinder.
hook a vacuum gauge to manifold vacuum, and watch it. is it steady? bouncing?
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#10
I have the same problem on my car. I changed plugs, wires, coil, injectors. even pulled the valve cover after running a compression test. All checked out good. I found a bunch of oil in number 2 coil were it plugs into the harness. Maybe its just me but it feels like it when away after I cleaned the coil and moved it to another location.
#11
disconnect the injector, and put the noid light in the harness, then start the car. it should be flashing. if it's not, that injector driver's not firing the injector for some reason.
#14
#6 has a problem.
If you want to diagnose further and have a compressor, you can use a leakdown tester to determine whether the leak is at the valve(s) or the rings.
Otherwise it's time to pull the cylinder head.
If you want to diagnose further and have a compressor, you can use a leakdown tester to determine whether the leak is at the valve(s) or the rings.
Otherwise it's time to pull the cylinder head.
#15
Basically just knowing if its valves or rings is where I want to be right now. We plan to pressurize the cylinder and see if we can tell where the air is going. My vote right now is a broken ring. We are going to pull the valve cover tonight also and make sure the valvetrain is all ok.
#16
Alright, We pressurized the cylinder and leak is at the exhaust valve. It is 1 of 3 things, carbon build up, bent valve or burnt valve. Seafoam is next! I will post back later with more results.
#17
when you pressurized the cylinder, did you make sure both valves were closed? by either loosening the rockers, or making sure that both lifters were ont he base circle of the cam?
#19
cranking compression on everything i've ever worked on should be between 140 and 175. running compression is generally about half of cranking compression.