I loved my ARHs on my previous 01 and my current car has pacesetter (previous owner installed) When I yank them to go 1 7/8th it will be the TSP Stainless, cannot justify 2X the amount for ARH LTs with y-pipe...as to why they are so much cheaper? I am guessing since TSP sells many things, they don't need to sell headers to keep the lights on like Kooks and ARH.

 

The motor in your sig doesnt need 2" headers. I assume youre getting much more drastic? 1-7/8th is a excellent header choice.

 

He just blew up a motor and is going a little bigger (441)

 

For what i paid for my ARH headers i would have been stupid to consider anything else.

 

Yea....it popped last week, I think a rod. I should know tomorrow if my builder has time to pull the pan when we drop it off at noon. Pulling it out tomorrow and rebuilding it to a 441ci with an LS7 top end. Might go 11.5:1 cr. and a very healthy cam. 2" is what I need.

Even a stepped 1 7/8" - 2" would be good........who makes them?

If my block is damaged....Steve at RED is standing by to do my re-sleeved 6.0 truck block......then I'll do a 454ci.

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ARH's are made in america with american steel...worth the price IMO

 

I've had my 1 3/4 ARH's and their catted Y for going on 3.5 to 4 years now. The quality is second to none. I still have rubber motor mounts and there has never been banging. The clearance is also amazing compared to most of the cheap crap out there.

 

I'm considering getting ARH or Kooks headers also and will probably do the install myself. I've installed shorties headers before but never long tubes.

Why are some saying to do motor mounts? Does the install of long tubes require to disconnect the motor mounts?

 

You know....tomorrow we are pulling my engine out. My friend has done it many many times.....he says we are taking it out the bottom and the engine comes out with the K-member and wheels attached. Also......the headers stay attached. Then we remove the headers after its out very easily.

He takes the engine out this way in 1.5 - 2 hours each time.

You might want to consider doing it that way because unbolting and bolting the headers with the engine out of the car is like childs play. So 4 hours out and back in with the new headers and no banging them all up everywhere putting them in with the engine in the car. You can do a spark plug change and a ton of other stuff while you're in there.

Just a thought.....since most builders of LT's say its a 4-6 hour job.

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What you're describing sounds like childs play but I imagine to remove the K-member requires using a lift?

 

Guy dropped off a cherry picker tonight......he gets everything ready, then we lift the front end of the car up and the engine and everything rolls right out from under.

Tomorrow I'll be watching his magic.......we start at 9am. I'll take pics......

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I would have gotten the TSP headers but at the time they were out of stock and their y-pipe was not stainless at the time so I spent the extra coin on the ARH. I was kinda upset at spending the extra money but it was worth it once I got them and saw them and installed them. Fit and finish is excellent and they sound great.

One other thing about TSP's exhaust, I'm not sure if their LT's are done by the same people that do their TD's or not (and therefore this is not saying anything bad about TSP whatsoever as a company) but their supplier changed the design of their X-pipe and no one told them. They're getting it corrected now but ARH has complete control over everything whereas TSP relies on other companies. Of course thats to be expected when you have your hands in every corner of the market like TSP does, whereas ARH is strictly an exhaust supplier.

 

Another one with 1-3/4" ARH, catted Y, stock MMs, and no banging .

BobP