dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

Quick question:

Just got my FAST 92 in the mail and the EGR port has been drilled.

I want to epoxy it over, in stages to allow cure time, probably a quarter inch at a time. I want it flush with the top of the intake for two reasons:

1) It will be over the top of the small lip on the EGR port so it will allow for better "holding" if that mekes sense in your mind.

2) It will be flush on the top so after it's painted it will look like it was never there. (It will be smoothed on the inside as well)

What is the best epoxy to use for this? I read somewhere that the intake was Nylon 66, but I'm not sure if that was for stock LS intakes or the FAST's.

**The plan is to remove the top shell, place something on the inside of shell to conform to the curve of the inlet, and start laying in the epoxy from the top of the upper shell.

I really don't want to use a plug. At all.

Thanks for any input guys. I know people have experience exopying these intakes.

moeZ28

iTrader: (7)

I wouldnt use any epoxy...just like in a throttle body, it could crack and break up and then be all in your engine. Just get a freeze plug like everyone did with their LS1 intakes when they removed the EGR. I believe it was a 1 3/8" freeze plug.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

I appreciate the input, but my Shaner was great and never cracked. I'm not using a freeze plug. That's bush league.

I know guys have had "whoopsies" when porting and epoxied them up. I was thinking some sort of 2 part, other than JB Weld... maybe like a LocTite brand or something.

Hell, speaking of bush league, I was actually considering using liquid nails. I've never seen that **** crack. Ever.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

After a bit of digging, it appears the polymer that FAST uses for the intakes is called Amodel® Made by SOLVAY Plastics

The 6 variants that exist for "Automotive Under Hood Applications are as follows:

Amodel A-1565 HS
Amodel A-1933 HSL
Amodel A-1945 HSL
Amodel AS-1933 HS
Amodel AS-1945 HS
Amodel AS-1433 HN

I don't think this info, to my knowledge, has ever been posted before. Does it help in deciphering what epoxies are good and what aren't? I'd like to think so....

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

Hmmm. After a bit more digging, it appears of the 6 polymers (polyphthalamide, long for PPA) listed, only the AS-1945 HS is listed as a "natural" color. I'm thinking gray.

The other 5 are ONLY offered in black. All are in pellet form.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

So does it still have the lip about 1/2 way down the opening like in this photo?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...on-p90-091.jpg

You could fill that whole top area with a black liquid urethane.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

Yep, that's the lip I was referring to.

Devcon is looking better and better. Thanks for the tip, Blu

ANTICOP RAM AIR

iTrader: (7)

plug it then put a plate over it...

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

The real reason I'm exploring this option is to get the INSIDE portion of the hole perfect, smooth and flush, like it was never there.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

The Devcon Plastic Weld is looking like a viable option. I'm thinking of cutting circles of metal screen (think re-bar for concrete) the same diameter as the hole, and laying one inside against the lip, and applying approx 1/4" of epoxy and letting that set, then doing that one more time and I should have a good, firm, strong plug.

Thoughts? C'mon guys... pretty ingenious.....

svede1212

iTrader: (3)

Epoxy shouldn't be allowed to set completely before adding more unless you rough up the surface enough to make the new epoxy grip it. There are heat resistant epoxies. Just hit up one of the companies and tell them what you are doing. You can also buy colorants to make the epoxy any color you want. I'd just buy a good epoxy and pour it all at once to fill.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

Yeah, SOLVAY hasn't gotten back with me about my questions. I'm starting to think they prob won't either....

I guess I'll do it all at once, but I'm still adding the screening. I hope this doesn't wind up biting me in the ***. I know the Plastic Weld is good to 250 or so. Of course there's a safety factor calculated in there as well....

Leeroyws6

iTrader: (4)

dude,use the plug.any epoxy will fail after a while.especially with a hole that big and with that kind of vacuum.but if u wont listen,then good luck and may the force be with you.(cause you're gonna need it when the epoxy lets go)

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

I'm not worried about the epoxy letting go if it's all above the lip with the screening in place.

Urethane on the other hand, all by itself will NOT let go if it goes over the lip, but that's not cheap.

I guess I'll use this and call it a day.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

you have to use the right epoxy ...adhesive ..for the plastic......or it could FUBAR big time.....i used some 2 part plastic stuff on my door panels.......set up nice and hard.....then peeled off like eggs from a teflon pan.......as for what is the right epoxy.........i dont have a clue.......did you ask fast?

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

It's proprietary info, but the manufacturer is listed above.

I think it's prob better just to plug it with the cover and call it a day. I thought maybe someone had a good trick, but I agree with everyone that epoxy is risky. I thought I might have had a fool proof way of doing it.

Hell, I haven't even gotten it in my hands yet. I have a few pics that my wife sent. It looks like the lip is very visible. Oh well. I tried.

I still have to get my custon MAF welded when I get in too.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

You can get one of those liquid Urethane kits for $41 shipped; easy fix!

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

I know... It was the price that had me weary, but apparently it's the only viable option. Where's the best price shipped you could find?

AmarilloWS6

iTrader: (3)

That's the exact same one I used in my ls1 manifold but it was the one with the Firebird engraved in it. Now I use it in my ls6 manifold as a "beauty ring" lol

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Right in the link I sent you.