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That sucks! I'm suprised you torqued it. Usually not a torque critical part (Just snug). Some torque wrenches don't make an audible click at low settings. Check it out before you snap another bolt.
Try using a reverse drill bit. Never use a torque wrench on things like this. More than likely you used a wrench that will not click on low settings. If you want to torque very low numbers use an inch LB torque wrench. Those sensors cant take to much torque, TIME TO DRILL IT OUT. Good luck
It didn't even move though! It was a nice matco one.
When I purchased my snap on tq wrench I was looking at their round bar bc it was cheaper. It was, however, explained to me to not use the wrench w/in the first 20lbs and the max 20lbs bc the tool runs the risk of improper tq. So I opted for the square bar wrench so as to avoid these issues.
I had this problem earlier today. What worked for me was wedging a small flat head screwdriver (3/16" or 1/4" wide blade) inside the hollow part of the ECT, at about a 45 degree angle, and while applying pressure against the inner wall of the sensor with the screwdriver, rotate the screwdriver counterclockwise as if it were a wrench. It came out pretty easily, and I could breathe again.
Right angle drill and a short bit. I have one that is less than 2" tall. Not cheap but having the right tools never is.
Tim
Yup, right angle drill (air is shorter than electric) and use a cutoff wheel to shorten a drill bit. Drill out and remove with an ease out (a twisted one that bites down with a turn not the square one that requires tapping in place to grab). The brass is soft and easy to drill out, just be sure to not go too big with the pilot hole. I removed a drivers rearmost exhaust mani stud that was broken off this way on my car without removing the brake booster. It was a job but it worked.
Follow what was said about the short drill bit and the 90 degree drill. Don't worry any partials or shavings get into the coolant passage, it's not a big deal. You don't need to drill too deep if you get a set of these EZ outs. I'm surprised how many times I've used it since I got it and they work great.
lets say you had this problem, a little time to wait as well as a 1/4" drive extension that is replaceable.
couldnt you coat part of the extension with jb weld and put it inside the part of the sensor that is still in the head and wait for it all to dry, then hook your ratchet up to it and back it out?
also, can i buy the reverse drill bits and easy outs that dont require tapping at my local hardware store?
did anyone have to jack their engine up on one side to get a working angle?
when tightening, how does one know when the sensor is properly in the cylinder head? when the crush washers and 19mm hex are up against the head?
Anyone still here that can reply to similiar issue 12 years later? I broke the cylinder head temperature sensor off into the engine block. We must have used to big of an easy out and was never really able to get it out. However, through the drilling, i think we may have shaved it all the way down. We use a heli coil, threaded it into the block and got the sensor in place. Prior to touching the sensor, the truck went into limp mode as if it were overheating. After installing the heli coil and the new sensor, it is not longer in limp mode but the P code is still there, causing me not to be able to get it inspected. It also will still put itself in limp mode if I try to go 0-60 in 3 seconds. Other than that, the truck is driving just fine.
06-03-2012, 08:40 PM
