I'm going to do bolt on's this coming winter. This is what I had in mind.

-Kooks 1 7/8-2" 3.5" no EGR jet hot coated (purchased)
-3" True duals no cats (purchased)
-LS6 intake
-SLP lid, smooth bellow
-P&P stock TB
-Delete AIR and EGR

The plan is to eventually do heads and cam so tuning for just bolt on's is not particularly preferred, unless it's necessary. Heads and cam would come a year later most likely.

Seeing as this set up will run rich initially, my question is, would ported MAF ends even out the A/F ratio? Or should I still get a tune either way?

 

All of your proposed mods will add air in and help it get out as well more likely to be lean if you ask me. Car should run fine though should have it tuned for max performance

 

With the money you were willing to hand out to pick up all that Kook's hardware, spending $300-400 more on a good tune would be a better idea than not doing it. It shouldn't be absolutely necessary, but if there's going to be a full year between bolt ons and internals, it would be a better idea to get the car tuned. It will leave no doubt about having a correct A/F and will maximize the power from your bolt ons over the year before your heads and cam swap.

That's my $.02 on it.

 

Tune is not a necessity, if you are going heads/cam within a year just wait until then for a tune.

You are not going to damage anything driving without a tune, just wont be maximizing the cars horsepower potential.

And where can you get a "good" tune for $2-300 dollars? Full dyno tunes usually range from $400 on up.

 

My bad, meant $300-400. And some shops charge lower amounts for a bolt on tune vs full heads/cam or boost tunes. Mail order tunes are also cheaper. Frost does them for $150.

 

"-Kooks 1 7/8-2" 3.5" no EGR jet hot coated (purchased)"

How did you come to settle on the 3.5" collector instead of a 3"?

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you delete air and egr and run headers and an exhaust you'll run rich, right? Because the rear o2's are gone? I know that when you port the MAF ends it causes the engine to run lean. So my question was, wouldn't those even out the A/F ratio, at least to be closer to the desired A/F?

Like I said, a year after these bolt-ons are done, the plan is heads and cam. If this set up does not harm the engine then I'll just run it untuned until the following year. I do not NEED to be maximizing the performance of these mods (unless if I for some reason decide against heads and cam).



I bought them used. The headers alone are $1k. Plus the cost for the jet hot coating. I picked them up locally for $725. I don't think they make the stepped headers with a 3" collector anyway.

 

Look into a mail order tune after your bolt ons because lets face it, you will want to romp on it after you have those mods, we all do... I was in the exact situation as you. started with bolts ons, got a mail order tune and then did my cam and dyno tune..

 

IMO, since you'll be driving it for a year or so before up-grading the heads and cam, I'd go ahead and get a basic street tune.