Headers, intake and disappointed
07-09-2012, 08:08 PM
#21
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There are a few "make an offer" companies on ebay where you can score a magnaflow for 360 shipped easily. I just ordered 2 of them for f-body friends off ebay at 355 shipped each. If you dont want overbearingly loud a magnaflow is perfect. Ive switched between SOOOO many different catbacks and am now back in a magnaflow.
07-09-2012, 08:43 PM
#22
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I ran tsp 17/8 headers and ory through my stock exhaust, dropped .3 at the strip. Usually equates to about 20 rearwheel gain. I got a cutout not to much later and finally got it dynod without a tune gained 28 cutout open from my baseline with stock manifolds, gutted stock elbow cats and stock catback.. I would seriously start with your 02 sensors. Just my opinion..
07-15-2012, 08:00 PM
#23
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Very frustrated right now. So I got the PCM back yesterday from Frost. Steve is great. But anyway, the damn car is almost worse now. Lol. I recorded a clip attempted to demonstrate the problem ( ). Not real good though so you have to turn up your volume loud. Hard to drive and record. i can do a better one if anyone thinks that would help you help me. Essentially, when I punch the gas to the floor or roll it on real heavy it just bogs down, shakes and back fires. No rev in the engine, doesn't really seem like it is cutting out, but just....isn't right. It is killing the performance to say the least.
Here are my plans to continue to diagnose:
New Bosch 13111 plugs go in tomorrow
Check for leaks in the new setup
New plugs if the two above steps don't result in an improvement.
Any other suggestions? Thanks.
Here are my plans to continue to diagnose:
New Bosch 13111 plugs go in tomorrow
Check for leaks in the new setup
New plugs if the two above steps don't result in an improvement.
Any other suggestions? Thanks.
07-16-2012, 10:37 AM
#26
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My first suspicion reading your OP was a small vacuum leak from deleting the AIR. The fact that tuning didn't clean it up confirms that it's probably that or a couple other things. As mentioned above, it's not uncommon for people to crack a plug stuffing the headers into place. Also not uncommon for the wires to get up against a new set of headers.
I'd check all the plugs and wires. Replace if needed and make sure the wires are fully seated. Also ensure that the vacuum line from the back of the intake that originally ran to your AIR pump is fully sealed. Also be sure and pull the negative terminal from your battery to reset the PCM.
I'd check all the plugs and wires. Replace if needed and make sure the wires are fully seated. Also ensure that the vacuum line from the back of the intake that originally ran to your AIR pump is fully sealed. Also be sure and pull the negative terminal from your battery to reset the PCM.
07-16-2012, 07:01 PM
#27
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damn it, one thing right after another. lol. I got the new O2 sensors today and tried to put them in tonight. Fricking driver side O2 sensor came out and was all cross threaded. Now i can't get the new ones in. Advanced auto parts was out of thread chasers. Lol. So i will get one of those tomorrow and fix that issue. Of course then it will be something else like plugs and wires. Lol. I need to get a freeze plug and plug the fitting that the AIR tube came off. Lol if that is my problem.
07-16-2012, 07:37 PM
#28
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I'm having a similar problem. If I really jump on it, I will usually get a misfire and feel some hesitation. I'll then come to a complete stop at a red light and the RPMs will go real low, almost to the point of stalling. (This is an A4) I'll get a SES light but then it will run fine. Two starts and a couple miles later, the SES light will self-clear. I've been avoiding the higher RPMs lately and its been running fine. My theory is the PCV. I don't have a catchcan and figured oil was entering the intake. Hoping to get my RX can tomorrow and see if I'm right. Could be I screwed up and cracked a spark plug or something, but I would think I would notice that when just cruising as well.
Last edited by Firechkn01; 07-16-2012 at 07:47 PM.
07-16-2012, 09:53 PM
#29
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Update. Got the O2 sensors in finally. Still doing the same thing.hhhhhhhhhhhhhh. It really dies when i am at low rpm and push the gas even remotely hard. So I guess tomorrow I will grab some new plugs and wires. Nothing like tossing more money at a problem. Lol. Just to make sure though....since frost tuning deleted my AIR (I removed) I shouldn't have any problems as a result? where would I find a vacuum leak if there was one? Diagrams or pictures would be priceless if anyone has any. Thanks.
07-17-2012, 10:01 AM
#32
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If you removed the AIR and did not cap off the vacuum line running to the back of the intake, then you DO have a vacuum leak. There is no if. Tuning out the air will not shut off the vacuum from your intake. Not seeing the year of your car. Do you have EGR?
Wanted to add that my experience with LS1s is a cracked plug or burned wire, or a wire not fully seated, will typically just cause the motor to run sluggish, then eventually throw a code for a misfire. Everything you're describing sounds like a vacuum leak.
Wanted to add that my experience with LS1s is a cracked plug or burned wire, or a wire not fully seated, will typically just cause the motor to run sluggish, then eventually throw a code for a misfire. Everything you're describing sounds like a vacuum leak.
07-17-2012, 10:23 AM
#33
When my msd wire burned through the kevlar insulation on the header tube it did what he said. Ran like crap but through no code and under heavy or quick application of throttle it would stutter, backfire, and fall on its face. I thought it was bad gas.
When mine had a vacuum leak through the brake booster it would run normal mostly but lean and it would idle high.
When mine had a vacuum leak through the brake booster it would run normal mostly but lean and it would idle high.
07-17-2012, 05:21 PM
#34
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQ9OX...ature=youtu.be
Video will be up soon. Still uploading.
New spark plugs going in tonight. AC Delco iridium. As asked in the video, where would I have a vacuum leak in light of what i removed? Thanks.
Video will be up soon. Still uploading.
New spark plugs going in tonight. AC Delco iridium. As asked in the video, where would I have a vacuum leak in light of what i removed? Thanks.
thanks for the help everyone. She runs like a champ now.
07-19-2012, 01:27 PM
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Looks like thunderstruck507 called it! Since I watched the vid I see that you pulled the whole thing out. That round piece that was right behind your intake with the 3 tubes coming out of it connected to a little valve right behind the intake. If you feel around back there you will find it. It comes out right beside the brake booster hose. It's a good idea to put a vacuum cap over that to seal up the resulting leak. Autozone or similar will sell a box of different sized caps for like 2 or 3 dollars, one of which will fit.
08-08-2012, 06:37 PM
#38
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Wanted to post an update. So obviously after finding the problem with broken plug the car runs as it should. The tune and having driven a few hundred miles has i think really gotten the car "dialed in". I will say that I now feel a noticeable difference in performance in the mid to up range of rpms. The car really pulls at WOT. The gas mileage has returned to "normal" (which is just a bonus). The sound quality seems to have improved some (although this may be in my head) and I am not sure if that has anything to do with anything. Lol. Anyhow, although not impressed with the LT and Y-pipe upgrade at first, I have since changed my mind and now very pleased......
