I have never heard of anyone replacing that before. That could be the cause of going from 40 to 20 psi.

 

there a little hex screw with a pin in the middle you think if i get that bit i could adjust it maybe ?

 

That's a torx bit I believe. I'm sure that's how it's adjusted but I don't think that's the issue. Put the old fpr back in and see if the pressure goes back. If it doesn't then you might have messed up that black insert.

 

u think when i used compressed are to blow out any old gas out of my fuel rail it could have damaged then in fuel rail regulator ? and that the old intank 1 was working better because it was clogged up ?

 

The device on your 2000 fuel rail is a pulse damper, not a regulator...just provides a buffer to keep pressure uniform. There's no way for fuel to leave the rails except through the injectors, or via a leak which you would see.

 

Have you checked your crank sensor

 

Why it must be something else LOL

 

Hahaha

 

from what i can see it looks fine i did find 1 yellow wire in the main grouping that had a lil skin niked off but was barley even noticed but i tapped it regardless,

well i cant find a leak anywhere, so the fuel pressure has to ether be due to the regulator or pump then yeah ?

also im putting my egr and air system back on and going to try and get some 1 with a scanner out to my house on sat my first day of in forever, ill get a chance to better inspect the sensor and have all the codes read off

 

One of those, or the pump is not getting full battery voltage.

Before you drop the tank, probe the chassis side of the connector with a volt meter during the 2-second priming cycle and measure the voltage being sent to the pump...should be 12VDC +/- 1VDC. Check the fuel pump ground while you're under there to ensure it is clean and secure.

 

i have a racetronix but i have not hooked up the hot wire kit yet i guess i should go ahead and install that when im working on it sat

 

I'm running a Racetronix in-tank pump with my 1982 vintage wiring with over 400K miles of use, no problems making 58psi at the rail. Your factory wiring should be adequate assuming no damage.

Here's an easy thing to try: swap your fuel pump relay with one of the other identical ones on your panel, and re-test fuel pressure. Easy way to rule out one possible cause.

 

im starting to think its security or crank relearn

 

thanks to 88gtman taking time out of his day and brought a scanner over turned out it was throwing a code for the crank sensor so i just replaced it, car runs longer now think im going to do a crank relearn on it now see if that works, still need to get a hold of a different fuel pressure gauge because i have a feeling it the gauge is messed up cause it read low on 3 cars

 

well just had another intake backfire idk why it keeps doing this, i guess im going to go get all new injector seals to see if its leaking gas into the intake i hope this has not damaged my intake or map sensor

also it blew out the valve cover gaskets again and smoke was coming out of them

 

ok so i put the new crank sensor in and my friend came over with a really nice scanner too that shows the functions of every sensor and we notice that it wasn't picking up the TPS sensor so we unplugged tested with the multimeter and its getting 5 volts. so i tried to crank the car with it unplugged and it is doing the same thing, but the computer did not throw a code for the TPS after we took it off

 

That's what I was thinking because it's affecting so many sensors at once, and in the same locations. Or, it very well could be the ignition switch.

 

likw u mean where i put my key in at ?

 

Ignition switch

An Ignition (or starter) switch is a switch in the control system of an internal combustion engined vehicle that activates the main electrical systems for the vehicle. Besides providing power to the ignition system components (the starter solenoid and ignition related components such as the engine control unit, spark coil and distributor) it also usually switches on power to many "accessories" (radio, power windows, etc.).

The ignition system is used to ignite the fuel-air mixture in the engine.

The starter system is the ignition system, plus the battery, and starter switch, relay, solenoid & electric starter motor.

The ignition switch usually requires a key be inserted that works a lock built into the switch mechanism. It is frequently combined with the starter switch which activates the starter motor. The ignition locking system may be bypassed by disconnecting the wiring to the switch and manipulating it directly; this is known as hotwiring. Wikipedia always has faster explanations than I could muster.

 

last night i went to hit the lock on my key fob and my passenger side head light flipped up and the passenger side window went down idk what thats about,

also the new starter i got was off of a ws6 with a bad solenoid, so i replaced with the solenoid off of my broken starter,

the i did how ever have to replace my steering column on my car a few years back cause the tilt broke on it, i put the old ignition into the new steering column

what do you think is causing the computer to not even read the TPS yet sending it power ?

also after clearing all codes with the scan tool, my ses light and check gauges light continued to stay on