omgitsmikeyc

It might not be sending the right voltage, a draw or short, making it throw off the sensors. I once had a continental that blew the ignition switch. It basically flooded the engine when I started it because it couldn't read where the throttle was. When it completely went out, my whole dash shut down, directionals included. No lights either while on a long night drive. Ignition and Ecu control and read sensors. That should narrow some. If you start swapping sensors, you'll probably get new errors each time.

devic

the only code coming up now is the EGR i deleted, so do i need to change out the ingition lock ? or how can i test it ?

and does any 1 know what will make the ses and check gauges light stay on all the time when the key is turned even after codes have been deleted

81cuttysupreme

Any luck yet?

81cuttysupreme

I'm having similar problems but... have you checked batt voltage at the ecm koeo, during the start, and after? Do u have any strange voltages at any sensors? Are your injectors firing properly? Noid light? You said something about the radio, are there any wires touching anything under the dash?

Redbull87

iTrader: (3)

With the key turned on and the engine not running the ses light will stay on.When the car is running it should turn off if there isnt a code present.

I highly doubt you need an ignition switch at this point and you are severely jumping around swapping parts that can make matters worse.

If the starter broke off yrs ago and created these problems then most likely you had a major failure and the starter breaking off was the end result.I wouldnt be surprised if you have damaged wires at the starter/crank sensor,reluctor ring possibly damaged.And who knows but a faulty pcm from shorts which probably burnt out drivers for the coils or miss reading the tps.

You need to check continuity from the pcm the sensors and see if you get very high resistance or shorts..or a break in the line with the sensors unplugged for a more accurate reading.This will verify that the harness itself is still fully functional and not giving the pcm false readings.Then move on to verifying the sensors themselves are operational with a realtime scanner your friend was using which can perform sensors tests.The tps should show if you step on the pedal and from memory I believe its between .45-5volts from idle to wot.perform as many sensor tests the scan tool provides..better safe than sorry...and I mean everything from fan controls to fuel pump while your at it.If this all checks out 100% your are narrowing this down to mechanical failure or faulty pcm.Problems like this require patience and trouble shooting one step at a time,and remember just because the car seemed to run ok before it broke down..does not mean it was 100%..you dont always get big warning signs before theres a **** storm and a blown motor.Good luck

devic

thanks for the advice, and yes i noid light tested the injectors i believe i wrote that on the first page, and i just switched out the TPS i dont have the scanner right now but i tested the voltages and the sensor is working, the car try to start right up now but then dies quickly

the are no ses code being thrown besides the egr, and i have tested the the TPS with the scanner and the computer was picking up no signal from it

and as far as jumping around bout the problem i dont really have a choice as i have to work on certain problems when i have the tools available to do so

im starting to thin its the vats acting up or the computer its self, as far as fuel pressure goes i have no idea what to do and still need to get a hold of a different tester cause i believe mine to not be reading properly

devic

and i dont cut up my radio harness's its takie in my opinion i like things to be clean when it comes to that stuff

Redbull87

iTrader: (3)

testing voltage at the tps does not mean its working,just means it has reference voltage.You need to verify that the harness itself does not have a break or short..this must be tested with the sensor unplugged.Then you need to back probe the harness of the tps with it plugged in and the ignition turned on and see if the signal wire increases in volatge as you open the throttle.If its 5 volts all the time then the pcm thinks the throttle is wide open or shorted and probably wont run long at all..should give a code but Im not sure on that.

If vats was the problem then your security light would flash on the dash when the car starts..it would run 100% fine for about 3 seconds and shut off from cutting the fuel off.

Try another fuel pressure gauge that is decent..the cheapy stuff are very unreliable for accuracy and leaks.Seems like you changed a regulator already when you probably didnt need to and may have created another issue :s

For what its worth..worst case get ahold of another pcm with vats deleted and swap it out.if it runs fine and might need a case learn as your only code then you probably fried the pcm sometime ago.

devic

i did the back prob test earlyer and it worked thats why i said it was good the sensor any how now i just need my friend to come back over with his scanner and we can see if the pcm is reading it, if its not then its ether the harness or the pcm

also i put the old regulator back

the car pretty much try to crank right up now but dies pretty fast not getting to full idle tho not even registering on the rpm guage

Redbull87

iTrader: (3)

Well if you really think vats is your issue then bypass it.Just get the resistor and wire it in temporarily and see if it runs longer than 3 seconds.

sepsis

iTrader: (7)

Just FYI, when the fuse for my cigarette lighter popped, the scanner tool wouldn't read the PCM.

Redbull87

iTrader: (3)

If his friend was using the scanner then I dont think he has a blown fuse.But he needs to get a better scanner along the lines of a tech2 to really diagnose his issues.

devic

well my friend came back by the computer is reading the new tps 0-100% and is throwing no codes at all now, but the ses and check gauges lights still stay on , also the egr is not hooked up but is not throwing a code, car still does not start

devic

ok if everything besides the computer has been replaced, what could cause the coils to not fire ? while there all getting signal, what other componites interact with the function of the coils

and does any 1 know why my SES and CHECK GUAGES lights will not go off
even knowing there are no codes being thrown

devic

bump
....

USMC35thSS

iTrader: (11)

I thought you might have had this figured out. So nothing has changed?

devic

no i haven't had time to work on it been working so much, still searching for a answer to this, idk what i could be missing =[

devic

bump....