hey guys so ill try to keep this short, im just looking to get some opinions on my build for my 2000 z, as it sits i have pacesetter lt's no cats, slp lid, and free mods stock 853 heads and stock ls1 intake and it is an a4, car dynoed 324rwhp and 336tq. Recently my lifters are starting to go so i am shopping around for a cam and new lifters, as of right now im looking between the texas speed 228r and the v3, basically my goal is to get the car down to low 12's high 11's, also i plan on buying a set of 243 heads and an ls6 intake and having the heads ported and polished but how do i know what length pushrods i need between those two cams for the heads? and are either of these cams decently streetable with an a4? and last but not least between the two cams what are the horsepower difference typically?

 

If you are planning to end up with a 228r cam and P&P LS6 heads with bolt ons I'd say save yourself a lot of foot work and money and just get the Precision Race Components Stg. 1 LS6 Heads & Cam Package from Texas Speed...

http://www.texas-speed.com/p-1160-pr...m-package.aspx

And then get a used LS6 intake here on LS1tech in the classifieds for $300. Intall everything and get a good dyno tune. You may ask what the difference is between the stage 1 and the stage 2.5 kit is. Here is a good read quoted from Trevor at Texas Speed...

"The only difference between our PRC stage 1.0 and stage 2.5 LS6 cylinder heads is valve size. The stage 1.0 heads will use the stock 2.00"/1.55" valves, and the stage 2.5 will use larger 2.02"/1.57" stainless steel valves. The stage 1.0 LS6 heads can accomodate a larger cam because they have smaller valves, so it allows more room for piston-to-valve clearance. There is not a difference in deck thickness between the two heads; they use identical GM head castings. The actual horsepower difference between the stage 1.0 and stage 2.5 LS6 heads is 5-7 HP. The stage 2.5 is also a better way to go if you plan on forced induction or nitrous. The stainless steel valves will handle more heat than the stock valves will.

With respect to camshaft, your biggest limiting factor will be CA emissions. We have had quite a few customers in CA use our 224R 114 LSA cam and pass emissions. Anything with more duration is going to really push it. Our 228R makes an additional 8 flywheel HP over our 224R, so you're not giving up a huge amount of power. With a six-speed manual, you can expect our PRC stage 1.0 LS6 heads and 224R cam to make right around 420 RWHP. It does vary some from car to car, though. This is also assuming you're running long tube headers, good induction, and the normal bolt-ons that will help your new heads/cam package breathe. Additional compression is a great way to gain some additional power, and I consider it free HP and TQ! We don't charge to mill your cylinder heads because every set of PRC cylinder heads will be milled. If we are looking to retain maximum p-to-v clearance, the heads will typically get a .003" clean-up mill. The LS6's 64cc chamber size will net right at 10.5:1 CR, and if they are milled an additional .030" it will put you right at 11:1 CR. With a 224R cam, you won't have any clearance issues with the stage 1.0 or stage 2.5 cylinder heads milled .030". The cam is small enough that you will not have any issues."

From all the threads I've read the 228r cam will be a better all around cam for street driving with better manners vs the V3 being more peaky in regards to the power band and driveability. That's what I gather from all the threads I've scoured over the years.

 

Great info and the exact setup I plan on going with! Should be very street friendly and make a very fun car.

 

wow great post theblueknight! thanks for passing allong the info. im surprised its only 8 hp from a 224-228

 

Thanks guys. I was pretty blown away by the minimal gain of 8hp from the 224 to the 228 as well. I used to be dead set on the 228r but to sacrafice only 6-8hp and have less lift (longer valvetrain life) and better driveability I'm going with the 224r and LS6 stage 1 heads as well in the future.

 

blueknight thank you so much for the info i really appreciate it def gives me some insight on where to go with all this!

 

If you are going to be upgrading your cam, I would also upgrade your torque converter. It's always best to measure pushrod length, but if you want to buy all the components at once, then call TSP and ask what they recomend (if you are going with their h/c).

 

Like said above, DON'T forget about a stall. I have read that some people use the stock converter with the 224r, but since you are looking for 11's a higher stall will only help. With the 224r I would look at something around a 3200. I have the 228r with a yank ss3600 and I have no problem driving my car on a daily basis. You will want to get a different gear also. Maybe something like a 3.42 or 3.73. I think you will be very satisfied after your build. My car put down 390whp through an A4 and it excites me to drive my car every time I sit in the seat.