I think i got RIPPED OFF from ebay !!!
#22
Regarding the slots going into the bolt holes that may be because of the way they used a "water jet" to cut the header flange. From the pictures you posted they do not seem to be that bad of quality. The entrance into the headers seems to be pretty good. If they were mine I would bolt them on and go.
#24
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I dunno the location of the AIR/EGR are different, ,aybe that just a difference in the year in which yours vs mine were made? and mine doesn't not have the badge saying Hookers. So i dunno..
#28
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UPDATE** I contacted the seller and he is swearing up and down they are real hookers, and that he paid $700 for them from summit. My thoughts on that is #1) The only $700 pair of hookers on summit are 1-7/8" stainless/ceramics. These headers are 1-3/4". anyways here are the only markings on these headers. maybe someone can connect the dots? or knows what these mean ?
533 is on the flange of both headers. The original foam packing was in the box and had a "2533" which led me to believe that was the part number but its not matching up to any store through google. maybe he bought these a long time ago and the part number/price has just changed/come down ? I dunno.
SC = Super Comp ?? still have no clue what the 17H could mean ?
533 is on the flange of both headers. The original foam packing was in the box and had a "2533" which led me to believe that was the part number but its not matching up to any store through google. maybe he bought these a long time ago and the part number/price has just changed/come down ? I dunno.
SC = Super Comp ?? still have no clue what the 17H could mean ?
#30
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Id just put them on. Ive put a bunch of stainless ebay headers on f bodies and they are great. I just installed some tonight too. Ive had several sets of hookers that last about 3 years before the coating under the car peels off, here in TN with no salty winters. I hate coated headers, but hell you only have $300 in them so rock em'
#32
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eBay headers are eBay headers. Idk why your getting wrapped up in the hooker header hype its all advertising. For f body hookers stuff isn't all that great. They most certainly do not make the best header as they claim. Overpriced and all you get is the same long tube you could get from Texas speed just your paying for the name of hooker. The best headers are 1 7/8 and have a great scavenging effect. You could easily get a pair of Texas speed lt's and have a good set of headers for cheap. If you don't care about how "pretty" they look when you pop the hood buy a set of chrome headers and spend less money. If your build isn't a full out strip build and all your doing is bolt ons and aiming for 450 or below rwhp then the headers you have now will be fine and you will never notice a difference. Buy a new set of o2 sensors though.
#33
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If they were advertised as "Hooker Headers" and they are are not....File a claim in Paypal for "item not as described". Under the proposed solution ask for a "partial refund" (Thats assuming they work and fit ok). This will allow you to keep them, but also put a few extra bucks in your pocket from the seller's dishonest auction.
My Hooker 1 7/8s have name plaques tacked on.
Ebay/China headers I've seen are stainless, and tig welded. Your's don't look like either.
The flange welds are completely normal and common practice. They won't leak.
The tube design looks almost identical to China stainless headers I've seen in person. You would have to closely scrutinize a bunch of pics to determine whose headers these are.
Overall though, the biggest red flag is the lack of a name plate, other then that its pretty believable.
#34
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Yup, I have decided to just take them up to my buddies shop and put them on. I mean I'm in college right now so my build budget is very limited, Honestly after some thought, I should be thankful I could even afford headers of any kind. Plus as stated above, until im done with school and making good money, I'm only looking for round the 450rwhp range. Hell honestly all I want to do is run a 7 in the 1/8. **** with a tune and these headers Ill probably be there.
#35
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Headers and a tune will not get you 450rwhp... lol. Also if you're on a strict budget why don't you just install the headers yourself? It's really not that hard.
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I know it wont get me to 450rwhp...I was referring to thats probably enough to get me into the 7's for the 1/8. if i make low 8's I would be happy with that also.
#37
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Headers are headers most of the time. I'd just throw them on and cut my losses. They look like hookers, I had a set on my WS6 and they looked identical to those. Mine did have a big hooker emblem on them though
#38
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Some are stainless, some are mild steel (unpainted, painted, coated...)
Some have 1-3/4" primaries, some 1-7/8", some 2", some stepped.
Some fit terrible and require grinding/BFH or hang really low, and some slide right in.
Some have O2 bungs on the inside, some have them on the outside.
Some have merge spikes some do not.
Some have 3" collectors, some 2.5" and some 3.5"
My point is headers are a little different than the "a lid is a lid" argument.
#39
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Some are stainless, some are mild steel (unpainted, painted, coated...)
Some have 1-3/4" primaries, some 1-7/8", some 2", some stepped.
Some fit terrible and require grinding/BFH or hang really low, and some slide right in.
Some have O2 bungs on the inside, some have them on the outside.
Some have merge spikes some do not.
Some have 3" collectors, some 2.5" and some 3.5"
My point is headers are a little different than the "a lid is a lid" argument.
Pacesetter and Hooker seem to fit the best out of all the ones I have had over the years.