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Steam vent tube alternative for an LS motor

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Old 11-30-2012, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by red 454
well mine is
but the air /steam can then escape from the over flow tube i thought ?
in stead of being returned to the main flow
or does steam just return to lquid un like air wich needs to be bleed of from the highest point
The radiator cap doesn't release fluid/steam to the overflow unless the pressure is too high in the system. (ie overheating). Pretty sure in an ideal situation you'd want it plumbed to low pressure. Thats why it is done that way from the factory.
Old 04-04-2013, 08:50 PM
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I like that setup, pretty neat. My question how do you know which is the low pressure side? The one pic shows it down by the heater hose. I've seen Street and Performance tap the top of the water pump, radiator hose, or the radiator.
Old 05-10-2013, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Sommer86






Does anyone know the part number for this 45* degree -4 fitting?
Old 05-13-2013, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 68wagon
so would that really cause harm to the heads? or just warmer operating temps??
I wish this was a topic that was discussed in greater detail on the board. It's all common knowledge that the Flowmaster catback sucks for 4th gen F-bodies and we all know the 10-bolt rear is a weak link -- perhaps it would be useful if we all understood there's potentially a ticking timebomb out there once you start to modify the cars that came equipped with the LS6 intake. Would've loved to know more about the importance of this BEFORE losing a motor.

Sorry for the brief rant. After losing #7, I found it worth spending an extra $200 on the Kurt Urban kit. There are homemade solutions that could be just as effective and might cost $20 to construct, however I'm not that handy and just wanted the piece of mind of knowing the issue was resolved.

After the kit was installed in the new motor, all 8 keep consistent temps all around.
Old 05-13-2013, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Midnight02

After the kit was installed in the new motor, all 8 keep consistent temps all around.
How are you monitoring the coolant temps on individual cylinders?
Old 07-09-2013, 11:21 PM
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Bump! for some more info on this Kurt Urban kit and how you are running the line off the middle of collector...?
Old 07-10-2013, 08:33 AM
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Hmmm, I have always heard the cylinder issues were from lean conditions/intake design. Not from heat in the heads. You would think the water jackets in the block would handle cooling requirements of the cylinders & steam ports in the heads would be a moot point. If the cooling system is sealed one would assume that under pressure a steam pocket would not be able to form in one spot long enough to create a issue, the pressure of the system should force the pocket through to the point of least resistance which would be right back into the radiator. I think we all know what happens when steam does in fact get trapped into the cooling system though, we start seeing overheating conditions. Only thing that throws me off even further is the fact ANY time I have ever had a steam pocket issue it was completely solved by simply burping my system & adding more coolant/water to top off the system properly.

I have been running the LS6 coolant pipe/plug kit on my stock 99' LS1 short block for 80k miles (engine has a total of 180k on the short block). I have port/polished/milled 5.3L heads w/224 cam. This combo has been together for roughly 4yrs & 80k miles of daily driving & racing. Never once have I had a issue with it the way it is. One would think if the steam ports were so important I'd have experienced a issue by now. The fact that I have not leads me even more to believe the cylinder issues are more tune related than heat in the heads.
Old 07-10-2013, 10:07 AM
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From what I've read it's just used to establish a high point in the system, since the top line of the radiator tank (cap) isn't the highest point of the system on most LS setups. If you jack up the nose and burp the system properly you shouldn't have issues. But as the coolant level drops over time small air pockets could form since air/steam will travel to the highest point.

I'm with you though, not near as important as everyone makes it out to be. I ran mine to the low pressure side of the thermo (hoping it will pull coolant/steam/air to it) Then jacked the nose up a ton filled the system and called it a day. If I see a coolant expansion tank come up cheap I'll probably buy it just for the tiny "what if" factor. CAn't see blowing all that cash on the aftermarket steam kits though.
Old 07-13-2013, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by BIG_MIKE2005
Hmmm, I have always heard the cylinder issues were from lean conditions/intake design. Not from heat in the heads. You would think the water jackets in the block would handle cooling requirements of the cylinders & steam ports in the heads would be a moot point. If the cooling system is sealed one would assume that under pressure a steam pocket would not be able to form in one spot long enough to create a issue, the pressure of the system should force the pocket through to the point of least resistance which would be right back into the radiator. I think we all know what happens when steam does in fact get trapped into the cooling system though, we start seeing overheating conditions. Only thing that throws me off even further is the fact ANY time I have ever had a steam pocket issue it was completely solved by simply burping my system & adding more coolant/water to top off the system properly.

I have been running the LS6 coolant pipe/plug kit on my stock 99' LS1 short block for 80k miles (engine has a total of 180k on the short block). I have port/polished/milled 5.3L heads w/224 cam. This combo has been together for roughly 4yrs & 80k miles of daily driving & racing. Never once have I had a issue with it the way it is. One would think if the steam ports were so important I'd have experienced a issue by now. The fact that I have not leads me even more to believe the cylinder issues are more tune related than heat in the heads.
What you not accounting for is the HP level for the steam kit application. It may not be required up to a certain HP point. after that point however is where it would be required. The more HP the higher the heat created in the chamber and surrounding water jackets. Much like when you need extra head bolts or larger studs to hold the head gaskets.
Old 07-13-2013, 10:33 PM
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Im at 680+ . No issues. Try again.
Old 07-13-2013, 11:07 PM
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Exclamation

While yall hammer out the thermal dynamics of this design , the man asked for suggestions, here is another kit made by Trickflow, about $85
P/N TFS-30600601

Last edited by 99'CajunFirehawk157; 07-13-2013 at 11:12 PM. Reason: pic too big
Old 07-13-2013, 11:22 PM
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kurt urban???
Old 07-13-2013, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Im at 680+ . No issues. Try again.
Try what again???
Old 07-14-2013, 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by lazaris
Try what again???
I'm saying IMO it doesn't make a difference if you're at 300hp or 7000hp. If your coolant system is "burped" properly, the steam vent's aren't a necessity. The amount of power the engine is making has absolutely nothing to do with the steam vent operation. The system is strictly meant to be a high point to eliminate air pockets and provide high velocity flow that can "scrape" ait bubbles off hotspots in the heads.

Last edited by Forcefed86; 06-27-2015 at 03:50 PM.
Old 07-14-2013, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
I'm saying IMO it doesn't make a difference if you're at 300hp or 700hp. If your coolant system is "burped" properly, the steam vent's aren't a necessity. The amount of power the engine is making has absolutely nothing to do with the steam vent operation. The system is strictly meant to be a high point to eliminate air pockets.
It may not at that level. What about 1,000 hp 1,200 1,500 in a nitrous/blown application? Do you believe you need a 6 bolt pattern head at 700 hp?
Old 07-14-2013, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
I'm saying IMO it doesn't make a difference if you're at 300hp or 700hp. If your coolant system is "burped" properly, the steam vent's aren't a necessity. The amount of power the engine is making has absolutely nothing to do with the steam vent operation. The system is strictly meant to be a high point to eliminate air pockets.
They make perfect on an ls engine. Try running without it and see what happens. You have to be able to bleed steam out of the system and without it, it will overheat where the steam pockets form
Old 07-18-2013, 03:57 PM
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-30600601
Old 06-27-2015, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Tally TransAm
went overboard on mine, i dig it though



What fittings did you use to attach to the heads?
Old 06-27-2015, 03:50 PM
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That ought to slow the velocity down to about nothing with those huge lines. Theres a reason they use small diameter tubing. Same reason GM did away with the 4 point systems.
Old 07-06-2015, 02:55 PM
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Mines blocked in the rear with a truck crossover up front
Mid 700hp twin turbo car
After burping any air out it isn't an issue
Don't see any reason in going out of the way and spending money on something that hasn't been a problem


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