Steam vent tube alternative for an LS motor
#82
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I like that setup, pretty neat. My question how do you know which is the low pressure side? The one pic shows it down by the heater hose. I've seen Street and Performance tap the top of the water pump, radiator hose, or the radiator.
#84
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Sorry for the brief rant. After losing #7, I found it worth spending an extra $200 on the Kurt Urban kit. There are homemade solutions that could be just as effective and might cost $20 to construct, however I'm not that handy and just wanted the piece of mind of knowing the issue was resolved.
After the kit was installed in the new motor, all 8 keep consistent temps all around.
#87
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Hmmm, I have always heard the cylinder issues were from lean conditions/intake design. Not from heat in the heads. You would think the water jackets in the block would handle cooling requirements of the cylinders & steam ports in the heads would be a moot point. If the cooling system is sealed one would assume that under pressure a steam pocket would not be able to form in one spot long enough to create a issue, the pressure of the system should force the pocket through to the point of least resistance which would be right back into the radiator. I think we all know what happens when steam does in fact get trapped into the cooling system though, we start seeing overheating conditions. Only thing that throws me off even further is the fact ANY time I have ever had a steam pocket issue it was completely solved by simply burping my system & adding more coolant/water to top off the system properly.
I have been running the LS6 coolant pipe/plug kit on my stock 99' LS1 short block for 80k miles (engine has a total of 180k on the short block). I have port/polished/milled 5.3L heads w/224 cam. This combo has been together for roughly 4yrs & 80k miles of daily driving & racing. Never once have I had a issue with it the way it is. One would think if the steam ports were so important I'd have experienced a issue by now. The fact that I have not leads me even more to believe the cylinder issues are more tune related than heat in the heads.
I have been running the LS6 coolant pipe/plug kit on my stock 99' LS1 short block for 80k miles (engine has a total of 180k on the short block). I have port/polished/milled 5.3L heads w/224 cam. This combo has been together for roughly 4yrs & 80k miles of daily driving & racing. Never once have I had a issue with it the way it is. One would think if the steam ports were so important I'd have experienced a issue by now. The fact that I have not leads me even more to believe the cylinder issues are more tune related than heat in the heads.
#88
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From what I've read it's just used to establish a high point in the system, since the top line of the radiator tank (cap) isn't the highest point of the system on most LS setups. If you jack up the nose and burp the system properly you shouldn't have issues. But as the coolant level drops over time small air pockets could form since air/steam will travel to the highest point.
I'm with you though, not near as important as everyone makes it out to be. I ran mine to the low pressure side of the thermo (hoping it will pull coolant/steam/air to it) Then jacked the nose up a ton filled the system and called it a day. If I see a coolant expansion tank come up cheap I'll probably buy it just for the tiny "what if" factor. CAn't see blowing all that cash on the aftermarket steam kits though.
I'm with you though, not near as important as everyone makes it out to be. I ran mine to the low pressure side of the thermo (hoping it will pull coolant/steam/air to it) Then jacked the nose up a ton filled the system and called it a day. If I see a coolant expansion tank come up cheap I'll probably buy it just for the tiny "what if" factor. CAn't see blowing all that cash on the aftermarket steam kits though.
#89
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Hmmm, I have always heard the cylinder issues were from lean conditions/intake design. Not from heat in the heads. You would think the water jackets in the block would handle cooling requirements of the cylinders & steam ports in the heads would be a moot point. If the cooling system is sealed one would assume that under pressure a steam pocket would not be able to form in one spot long enough to create a issue, the pressure of the system should force the pocket through to the point of least resistance which would be right back into the radiator. I think we all know what happens when steam does in fact get trapped into the cooling system though, we start seeing overheating conditions. Only thing that throws me off even further is the fact ANY time I have ever had a steam pocket issue it was completely solved by simply burping my system & adding more coolant/water to top off the system properly.
I have been running the LS6 coolant pipe/plug kit on my stock 99' LS1 short block for 80k miles (engine has a total of 180k on the short block). I have port/polished/milled 5.3L heads w/224 cam. This combo has been together for roughly 4yrs & 80k miles of daily driving & racing. Never once have I had a issue with it the way it is. One would think if the steam ports were so important I'd have experienced a issue by now. The fact that I have not leads me even more to believe the cylinder issues are more tune related than heat in the heads.
I have been running the LS6 coolant pipe/plug kit on my stock 99' LS1 short block for 80k miles (engine has a total of 180k on the short block). I have port/polished/milled 5.3L heads w/224 cam. This combo has been together for roughly 4yrs & 80k miles of daily driving & racing. Never once have I had a issue with it the way it is. One would think if the steam ports were so important I'd have experienced a issue by now. The fact that I have not leads me even more to believe the cylinder issues are more tune related than heat in the heads.
#94
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I'm saying IMO it doesn't make a difference if you're at 300hp or 7000hp. If your coolant system is "burped" properly, the steam vent's aren't a necessity. The amount of power the engine is making has absolutely nothing to do with the steam vent operation. The system is strictly meant to be a high point to eliminate air pockets and provide high velocity flow that can "scrape" ait bubbles off hotspots in the heads.
Last edited by Forcefed86; 06-27-2015 at 03:50 PM.
#95
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I'm saying IMO it doesn't make a difference if you're at 300hp or 700hp. If your coolant system is "burped" properly, the steam vent's aren't a necessity. The amount of power the engine is making has absolutely nothing to do with the steam vent operation. The system is strictly meant to be a high point to eliminate air pockets.
#96
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I'm saying IMO it doesn't make a difference if you're at 300hp or 700hp. If your coolant system is "burped" properly, the steam vent's aren't a necessity. The amount of power the engine is making has absolutely nothing to do with the steam vent operation. The system is strictly meant to be a high point to eliminate air pockets.
#100
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Mines blocked in the rear with a truck crossover up front
Mid 700hp twin turbo car
After burping any air out it isn't an issue
Don't see any reason in going out of the way and spending money on something that hasn't been a problem
Mid 700hp twin turbo car
After burping any air out it isn't an issue
Don't see any reason in going out of the way and spending money on something that hasn't been a problem