More HP and Torque 
Y merg vs true duals
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Teching In
Joined: Dec 2009
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Y merg vs true duals Hi
So I'm looking to update my exhaust system
What option do think better
3" true dual
Or 3" y pipe to 4" I pipe w/ 4" cutout
In performance, better exhaust flow, more power gain ???.
The car has cammed and the heads are coming soon
And let's see your's exhaust gayz
So I'm looking to update my exhaust system
What option do think better
3" true dual
Or 3" y pipe to 4" I pipe w/ 4" cutout
In performance, better exhaust flow, more power gain ???.
The car has cammed and the heads are coming soon
And let's see your's exhaust gayz
I would do a true dual, but depending on how big the heads/cam are I wouldn't even go with a full 3" to the tips. Dual 3" midpipes off the collector to a 2.5 the rest of the way will be plenty for a mild h/c setup. Now if you're going with a big donkey dick cam (240+ duration) and some big aftermarket heads then yeah go with the full 3". But if you're running a medium cam and say ported OEM heads then you won't see a difference over a 2.5" end.
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i had 3" duals on a stalled auto car. i won't do them again. ground clearance issues and had trouble getting a chassis mount tq arm to fit. plus the drone was sofaking bad i wanted to vomit. sounded great wot, but normal driving sucked ***. i had magnaflow 4x9s on it.
this go round i'm doing a 3.5" y and a 3.5" cutout, with the stock muffler. maybe i'm just getting old, but damn...when you can't make a phone call because you're driving, it's time to rethink the exhaust setup.
this go round i'm doing a 3.5" y and a 3.5" cutout, with the stock muffler. maybe i'm just getting old, but damn...when you can't make a phone call because you're driving, it's time to rethink the exhaust setup.
Last edited by s346k; Dec 15, 2012 at 10:39 AM. Reason: typing > me
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I couldnt agree more with the last two posts. I actually noticed more low end torque going from duals to oryp with a nice catback. This was before the blower was installed though. 
I have since bought another f body with true duals and am looking at either finishing running them all the way oput or removing the system in favor of another oryp and catback. Havent decided if duals out back will work with the tsp true duals or not. Is there a write up on it somewhere?
I have since bought another f body with true duals and am looking at either finishing running them all the way oput or removing the system in favor of another oryp and catback. Havent decided if duals out back will work with the tsp true duals or not. Is there a write up on it somewhere? Folks have done it. I think the best bet is to take to a semi competent exhaust shop that has the ability to mandrel bend sections and see if they can fit over the axle. Trying to route it like the Kooks with PHB relo is probably the best bet. The X-pipe isn't in the best place to do that though.
^^^ understand. I was thinking someone made a how to using the TSP system and routed a 3in pipe on each side of the pumpkin after re routing some brake lines or something like that, no? Looks like there might be room with some careful planning. BTW I have searched and asked around about shops that mandrel bend but no go here. I wonder if just normal bending would suffice using 3in pipe with band clamps? It would start after the chambered mufflers on the TSP system. Im thinking something like a 90 deg bend a 180 and another 90 should get it over the axle and pointing straight back, from there maybe a lil kick or so and on to some tips.
I've run the normal TD people on here say, more like just strait 3 tubing off the headers them dumped before the rearend. Its loud, just as loud in the car is open headers with them point it to the sides then you do bad *** burnouts with them blowing the smoke off the rear tires very heavy. If you point them down with TD or open headers it gets louder in the car, alot louder if you dont have all the sound mats and a stock carpet in the car, it blast the sound wavys into the payment then they bounce back, like you you drive by a barrier or guardrail with a catback and the windows down it get louder in the car.
power wise without a X pipe or H pipe on your TD, a good 3-4inch Ypipe ( no revese taper after the merge) will make more mid range, but its not really were you drive a m6 car to matter. It added somthing like 9-11whp/wtq in 3-4500, But that the power lays right over non X/H pipe TD, and is down 2-5 up over 6K with a Y pipe. Also have to remember the weight. Some of the steel TD can weight alot with 2 mufflars, if its 20 pounds more then a catback you have to make 2 more hp just to be equal with it being really loud.
top right sheet the pulls thats it up in 3-5Kish is was a Ypipe to give you a idea
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...1223111916.jpg
FYI I have a race setup, thats for max power, and weight. But 99% and all street driving run smooth Ypipe I made into a 4 I pipe into a SLP dual/dual or 2OTL muffler and tail pipes out the back. Less then 10whp 5-7K over open headers.
power wise without a X pipe or H pipe on your TD, a good 3-4inch Ypipe ( no revese taper after the merge) will make more mid range, but its not really were you drive a m6 car to matter. It added somthing like 9-11whp/wtq in 3-4500, But that the power lays right over non X/H pipe TD, and is down 2-5 up over 6K with a Y pipe. Also have to remember the weight. Some of the steel TD can weight alot with 2 mufflars, if its 20 pounds more then a catback you have to make 2 more hp just to be equal with it being really loud.
top right sheet the pulls thats it up in 3-5Kish is was a Ypipe to give you a idea
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...1223111916.jpg
FYI I have a race setup, thats for max power, and weight. But 99% and all street driving run smooth Ypipe I made into a 4 I pipe into a SLP dual/dual or 2OTL muffler and tail pipes out the back. Less then 10whp 5-7K over open headers.
Last edited by studderin; Dec 15, 2012 at 02:01 PM.
Well, after going through all 54 pages of the td's sticky in this forum. I found something like what I want to do on page 38 with the tsp td's that are on my car. 3 bolt flange or band clamp on the sweet thunders connecting the over axle pipes. Well see how it goes shortly, maybe after x-mas. Things are good at the North Pole when Mrs. Clause is happy too... 
I went from GMMG to Kooks TD's and the Kooks is quieter with no rasp on my H\C setup. it also weighs about the same as what I had before. Im lowered 1.25" and no real issues. Kooks TD's are expensive but a bad *** setup.
this is what i did earlier this year. i got sick of the rasp with the hooker cat back i had on it before. its a 3" reduced to a 2.5" h pipe over the axle. it was a little tight without the phb relocation bar.
Last edited by poltergeist 02; Dec 16, 2012 at 10:24 AM.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2009
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