aus ss ute

iTrader: (1)

Im based in Australia and have a commodore ute with a ls1, m6 in it.
So far engine wise i have done exhaust, headers, EPS 218/222 114 cam, 243 heads, ls7 lifters, ls2 chain, ported and shimmed oil pump, 1.7 yt rockers, springs, pushrods, ls6 intake, 78mm throttle body, dus intake.
Made about 360 on the dyno with a slipping clutch. Its a daily driver, have to deal with a lot of stop start traffic and fuel is pretty exy here so wanted heaps of torque and good manners with some economy.
Been really happy with it but want more power. Engine has 175k on it and running well but thinking about getting some parts together for a fresh motor. Would like to go down the ls3 path but a conversion over here is about $10-15k depending who u go through and how much you do yourself.

My plan is to buy a ls3 block, ls3 rods + mahle forged pistons to suit, ls1 crank, ls2 timing gear and cover, maybe c5r chain, and bearings. Build the short block up myself then swap over all the top end from my ls1 plus the oil pan and accesories. Will ask Geoff for another custom cam but was thinking something like a 224 230 114+2lsa. I know head wise the 243s dont flow as well as the ls3s but from what Ive read I would get a bump in compression to around 11.5?. and good for low end power/ torque. Was thinking maybe a valve job and bowl work. I think this would be a lot cheaper for me.
My goal is heaps of torque with good manners more than peak power.
I plan on doing all the work myself apart from tuning, havent build a engine before but managed to do my cam/ head swap without any dramas. I have a lot more reading to do before I start anything but willing to give it a try.

So I'm looking for peoples opinions/ advice are on this?
Has anyone tried a similar build?

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

hey man! just curious but if your are going to use the same pieces off your ls1 why go to all the trouble of getting the ls3 block? the ls3's secret to power and torque is in the heads themselves as well as its intake. if your going to throw ls1 parts at it why not just build your ls1?

Imo you could get a stroker kit and refresh your ls1 block a lot cheaper than if you went to the ls3 block. If you want torque then keep your 243's and stroke the ls1 to 383 (more cubes than the ls3) and mill the heads to get your target compression ratio and then add a cam t suit. In the end you will make much more power and torque than throwing you ls1 parts at the ls3 and it will probably be cheaper.

If the ls1 block isnt an option then maybe see if you can scrounge up a 6.0 iron block down there and build that as again it should be much cheaper. unless your going to take advantage of the l92 heads and intake on the ls3 i like the 383 option best

Grr

iTrader: (2)

there is nothing wrong with using what you have on a LS3 block. As stated above though you would be just as well off or better off getting a complete 383 rotating assembly in your LS1 block, and it would be a whole lot cheaper.

aus ss ute

iTrader: (1)

Hey mate, thanks for your input. Been thinking about a 383 as well but the cost of parts here would make it just as expensive as the ls3 way if not more. Also most stoker builds I have seen have pretty big cranky cams, Im pretty keen to try and keep it a bit stealthy and well mannered cause the drive to work. I'm planning on keeping the car a while and I thought this would give me a better base if i chase more power in the future, ie ls3 heads or a blower.
While I might make less power to start with I think I would have better driveability and more options later on than a 383?
Also pretty keen to keep a alloy block.

redbird555

iTrader: (14)

i'm not sure what your getting the ls3 parts for but a whole 383 rotating assembly can be had from texas speed for 1800 and change now idk what the duties and shipping would be but its a nice budget kit around here. i would still investigate further here. also as to driveability the 383 can have as nice of manners as any engine the key is the right cam. most people who go the 383 route want a max effort setup so they go big on the cam which cuts down driveability. with the appropriate size cam theres no reason why you would lose any streetability with the 383.

also keep in mind the other budget option which is to get a 6.0 iron block from a truck and go that way. the only real benefit of the ls3 with what you plan on doing is that later on down the road you could swap in the l92 heads thanks to its larger bore,, however a 6.0 block can also take the same heads.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

Have you seen the power 383's are putting out? There are heads/cam ls3's making that power. The ls3 with his current top end I think is a better choice.

aus ss ute

iTrader: (1)

Cost wise a 383 assy is about 3-$3.5k here. Its extortion compared to what you pay over there for performance parts. Previously I have bought all my parts from the states but the orders need to be kept under $1000 to avoid duties etc... I have seen the texas speed assy but with freight and taxes id still be paying $3k plus ls1 block.
Either way Id have to buy a block cause I dont want the car off the road and I wouldnt mind having my old short block as a spare just in case. A iron block is about $1100 then machining costs. I have seen new or near new ls3 blocks go for around $2k. Lightly used ls3 rods $150, ls1 crank $150, Mahle pistons $700.
Spend another $1000 on the heads plus bearings etc and I see both ways coming out around $5k.
Cammed ls3s make great power, I realise a lot of this is to do with heads being better at the top end. By keeping mine and giving them a touch up would save me heaps, Id sacrifice some top end but with extra compression and a little work I thought they might go all right?

30th t/a

iTrader: (51)

Im currently looking into a similar build. Im considering a stock GM LS3 shortblock and installing some milled 243s with a nice cam and the LS6 intake.

Im just not a big fan of the huge LS3 heads runners. I like the low end snappyness of a high compression, small intake runner design on a street engine. From my research, 440/415 would be realistic. Then I would like to eventually add a set of TFS 235s & a ported FAST onto the engine and make 515/460.

aus ss ute

iTrader: (1)

Stock short blocks are a bit hard to find over here and still get pretty good money. Also would have to swap the reluctor wheel where as if i could use a ls1 crank with the 24t reluctor, ls3 rods (seem a lot stronger than ls1s) and set of forgies to suit for about the same money.
Provided I could find a suitable block at the right price Id have a new, pretty tough bottom end with plenty of options for the future. Going with a iron block could save some money so will def think about it but would like to stick with alloy.
I thought the 243s would be good for low end as well.

Grr

iTrader: (2)

If you look in my sig, I have a built LS3 with full out 243s on it. I plan on making 650ish hp with it. If you can find a nice running LS3 shortblock it would be plenty for you up to around 600whp with no problems

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

Agreed, also if you find an ls3 short block, you can run the converter any instead of swapping cranks or reluctor wheels.

aus ss ute

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the replys, will keep my eyes out for a short block. If I could get one for say under $3k I'll go that way but any dearer and I think I'll have a go at building one.