2000 Camaro SS build First Post
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If you like how it sounds&looks right now I'd keep it. But I'd keep alittle $aside for when the LTs go on as you know that will change the sound. If it sounds anyhting like a truck it's crapmaster.
A lid....into a ported throttle body(55$)... into a ls6... into some Lts is a nice exhaust setup...catback still questionable but atleast you have one... New gaskets for the intake..... Motor mounts..... Remove air/egr if you have no emmissions.... New bosch rear o2 sensors..... and a frost tune. === good typical setup/gains and ready for heads/cam at that point.
A lid....into a ported throttle body(55$)... into a ls6... into some Lts is a nice exhaust setup...catback still questionable but atleast you have one... New gaskets for the intake..... Motor mounts..... Remove air/egr if you have no emmissions.... New bosch rear o2 sensors..... and a frost tune. === good typical setup/gains and ready for heads/cam at that point.
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That really sucks to hear but it does make since that muffler is almost identical to the one I put on my truck. This project started as a budget car that I could drive from Montana back home to Key Largo, FL every summer to race my buddy's f-bodys and mustangs. I was tossing around the idea of going ultra budget and getting the eBay stainless headers but I thought better of that. I'm just about to order my first round of parts and I decided with the TSP 1 3/4 long tubes with the true dual exhaust. My only hesitation was how annoying it's going to be to hear that sound driving to and from Florida, I can always fab up some over the axle extensions though. Right now the car is parked for the foreseeable future till I get my parts installed. I'm not set on what intake option I'm going to go with pretty much I'm going to wait till something pops up in the classifieds section. Here is a few pictures of how she sits, I think I'm going to bump this over to the Camaro section for the continuation of my build.
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000465_zps2367cb6c.jpg)
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000467_zps7a181c53.jpg)
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000465_zps2367cb6c.jpg)
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000467_zps7a181c53.jpg)
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000468_zps3fd56931.jpg)
Last edited by ChewMT; 03-04-2013 at 05:14 PM. Reason: wrong header details
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That "annyoing" sound fron the duals....sounds like sex to me..haha
The camaro section is only for the 5th gen. Our 98-02 fbody (Any and all Trans ams/camaros) share all the same componets. Their the same car with a different body style.
The camaro section is only for the 5th gen. Our 98-02 fbody (Any and all Trans ams/camaros) share all the same componets. Their the same car with a different body style.
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^ good catch Justin I was refering to this forum though https://ls1tech.com/forums/chevrolet...-1967-2002-72/
Upon a closer investigation I guess that this is the right place for this.
Upon a closer investigation I guess that this is the right place for this.
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Okay since I'm kind of waiting for parts to arrive I figured I would go ahead and get a head start by getting rid of both my EGR and AIR. This was suggested by Justin a few posts earlier. I took pictures all along the way so you could reference them. Everywhere I looked for pictures seemed that they had since been deleted. 1 thing of note if you're replacing headers/intake you don't need any block off plates that everyone is talking about.
Before
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000469_zpsaadb34d8.jpg)
After
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000491_zps3aa048e1.jpg)
First I removed the EGR. Where it connects to the intake it is a 10mm bolt. My EGR was connected to the block with a 15 and 16mm bolts I suspect it originally was both 15mm bolts and somewhere along the road that switched. It connects to the header with 2 10mm bolts (these are a bitch to get to you'll see the contraption that I rigged together to reach them).
Here is Step 1, remove this bolt
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000470_zpsa84b2b67.jpg)
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000478_zps7c07227e.jpg)
Next remove the bolts that connect the EGR to the front of the block, 15mm, maybe 16mm on bottom. Also unhook the electrical connector, some people say cut it off and tape the wires I just tucked it away.
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000471_zpsb061cfd3.jpg)
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000477_zps64b6e3fe.jpg)
Last step remove the 2 10mm bolts that join the apparatus the the passenger header. You'll have to most likely jack-up the car to get the bottom one. Spray it down with some penetrating lube if you have it. I only had WD-40 and the bottom bolt snapped off.
I ended up taking off the passenger side air, where it joins the header to give me some more space.
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000479_zps12c63615.jpg)
Green is EGR, Blue is AIR
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_f075fc50-16ac-4ce9-9e83-6e4002e71545_zps3d1d9d50.jpg)
My contraption to reach the bolts, fyi if you don't have a flex-head ratchet buy one.
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000482_zps825294f7.jpg)
All done, if you're like me and replacing the original headers there is no reason to get cover plates. (Unless you change your mind and buy eBay headers to save money, then you'll need the cover plates.)
Before
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000469_zpsaadb34d8.jpg)
After
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000491_zps3aa048e1.jpg)
First I removed the EGR. Where it connects to the intake it is a 10mm bolt. My EGR was connected to the block with a 15 and 16mm bolts I suspect it originally was both 15mm bolts and somewhere along the road that switched. It connects to the header with 2 10mm bolts (these are a bitch to get to you'll see the contraption that I rigged together to reach them).
Here is Step 1, remove this bolt
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000470_zpsa84b2b67.jpg)
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000478_zps7c07227e.jpg)
Next remove the bolts that connect the EGR to the front of the block, 15mm, maybe 16mm on bottom. Also unhook the electrical connector, some people say cut it off and tape the wires I just tucked it away.
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000471_zpsb061cfd3.jpg)
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000477_zps64b6e3fe.jpg)
Last step remove the 2 10mm bolts that join the apparatus the the passenger header. You'll have to most likely jack-up the car to get the bottom one. Spray it down with some penetrating lube if you have it. I only had WD-40 and the bottom bolt snapped off.
I ended up taking off the passenger side air, where it joins the header to give me some more space.
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000479_zps12c63615.jpg)
Green is EGR, Blue is AIR
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_f075fc50-16ac-4ce9-9e83-6e4002e71545_zps3d1d9d50.jpg)
My contraption to reach the bolts, fyi if you don't have a flex-head ratchet buy one.
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000482_zps825294f7.jpg)
All done, if you're like me and replacing the original headers there is no reason to get cover plates. (Unless you change your mind and buy eBay headers to save money, then you'll need the cover plates.)
Last edited by ChewMT; 03-04-2013 at 05:36 PM.
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Onto the AIR and remember I already removed the passenger side which was 2 10mm bolts. Once again there is no need for cover plates since I'm getting new headers.
For reference here is the passenger header connection
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000476_zps1892c73c.jpg)
The drivers side connector also 2 10mm bolts
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000475_zps21434801.jpg)
After you get those two off you'll have to remove the electrical connector, then dismount that box which is held on by 1 10mm bolt and un-hook the air hose from the rear of the intake. I'm replacing my stock intake so I'm not worried about plugging that hole, if you aren't replacing your intake I'd leave the hose on and clamp it off.
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000473_zps25673977.jpg)
Un-clip that and remove the box that it was plugged into 1 10mm bolt
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000484_zps4a6b0488.jpg)
Unplug the rear
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000485_zps8f1a32c6.jpg)
Next pull everything out of the way and get to where the airlines feed to right behind the drivers side headlight.
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000474_zpsbaa105f4.jpg)
You'll have to jack up the car again and remove the shround from underneath. 9 10mm bolts.
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000486_zpsbbe92fe2.jpg)
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000487_zps3077ed06.jpg)
Now you can see the pump which is held in place by 4 10mm bolts.
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000488_zps6ff7f5f5.jpg)
Make sure to pull the hose off this thing, not sure what it does but I'm nearly certain I'll be pulling this out soon too.
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000489_zps672ab2d4.jpg)
EGR/AIR crap
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000490_zpse28cad24.jpg)
I used this picture a lot for reference I borrowed it from: TRANSdAMn 2k, that was posted here https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...uestion-2.html post #32. I re-hosted it just in-case somewhere down the line he deletes the original.
For reference here is the passenger header connection
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000476_zps1892c73c.jpg)
The drivers side connector also 2 10mm bolts
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000475_zps21434801.jpg)
After you get those two off you'll have to remove the electrical connector, then dismount that box which is held on by 1 10mm bolt and un-hook the air hose from the rear of the intake. I'm replacing my stock intake so I'm not worried about plugging that hole, if you aren't replacing your intake I'd leave the hose on and clamp it off.
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000473_zps25673977.jpg)
Un-clip that and remove the box that it was plugged into 1 10mm bolt
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000484_zps4a6b0488.jpg)
Unplug the rear
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000485_zps8f1a32c6.jpg)
Next pull everything out of the way and get to where the airlines feed to right behind the drivers side headlight.
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000474_zpsbaa105f4.jpg)
You'll have to jack up the car again and remove the shround from underneath. 9 10mm bolts.
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000486_zpsbbe92fe2.jpg)
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000487_zps3077ed06.jpg)
Now you can see the pump which is held in place by 4 10mm bolts.
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000488_zps6ff7f5f5.jpg)
Make sure to pull the hose off this thing, not sure what it does but I'm nearly certain I'll be pulling this out soon too.
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000489_zps672ab2d4.jpg)
EGR/AIR crap
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_P1000490_zpse28cad24.jpg)
I used this picture a lot for reference I borrowed it from: TRANSdAMn 2k, that was posted here https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-ls1-o...uestion-2.html post #32. I re-hosted it just in-case somewhere down the line he deletes the original.
![](http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b316/scubapro187/th_air1_zps5415051b.jpg)
Last edited by ChewMT; 03-04-2013 at 05:26 PM.
#34
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Clean car man!
Agreed with the other tech guys, that definitely looks like a flowmaster exhaust. You can get a nice magnaflow system here from one of the vendors for around $450 shipped. That'd be a nice, cost effective upgrade. Once you get that completed, I'd start looking at suspension items as well as some TSP 1 7/8" headers and ORY to complete your exhuast.
Agreed with the other tech guys, that definitely looks like a flowmaster exhaust. You can get a nice magnaflow system here from one of the vendors for around $450 shipped. That'd be a nice, cost effective upgrade. Once you get that completed, I'd start looking at suspension items as well as some TSP 1 7/8" headers and ORY to complete your exhuast.
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Okay guys as you can see in my first post I've ordered all my parts. I'm still tossing around the idea of doing heads at the same time. What gains do you think it will get me to go with texas speed ls6 stage 1 heads? What about sending my 241's to AI for work. I'm already over budget but I'd rather not tear apart my engine later on.
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The flow seems to be pretty good -- even on a V6 F-Body -- show your proof!
"Westech's Superflow showed our V6 with the Flowmaster American Thunder exhaust system gained a hair over 11, horsepower (SAE-corrected) at the rear wheels and road test numbers backed that up. Using a Vericom VC3000 Performance Computer, an on-board vehicle dynamics tester, we saw 0-to-60 time decrease from 7.83 to 7.44-sec. and quarter mile stats going from 16.15-sec./89.14-mph to 15.87/90.69.
Eleven horsepower and nearly two tenths and a mile-and-a-half an hour in the quarter is an outstanding improvement for just an exhaust change on a car which, in stock trim, made only 162-hp (SAE) at the wheels. Clearly, the O.E. exhaust is restrictive. "
http://www.camarohomepage.com/project/part1.htm
![](http://www.camarohomepage.com/project/part_1/604.14b.jpg)
"Westech's Superflow showed our V6 with the Flowmaster American Thunder exhaust system gained a hair over 11, horsepower (SAE-corrected) at the rear wheels and road test numbers backed that up. Using a Vericom VC3000 Performance Computer, an on-board vehicle dynamics tester, we saw 0-to-60 time decrease from 7.83 to 7.44-sec. and quarter mile stats going from 16.15-sec./89.14-mph to 15.87/90.69.
Eleven horsepower and nearly two tenths and a mile-and-a-half an hour in the quarter is an outstanding improvement for just an exhaust change on a car which, in stock trim, made only 162-hp (SAE) at the wheels. Clearly, the O.E. exhaust is restrictive. "
http://www.camarohomepage.com/project/part1.htm
![](http://www.camarohomepage.com/project/part_1/604.14b.jpg)