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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 06:21 PM
  #41  
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...-gulp-mod.html

The thread is old but I talked to him through PM's not long ago to ask him if they were using anything different in the recent years or if they were still using it.

He said they still race the car its on and if they take it off the car looses 3mph on the big end.

This guy did something just like that on his own with sheet metal and HVAC tape.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...uild-pics.html

Mcnord did something with a dual inlet tube:



Last edited by My6speedZ; Mar 10, 2013 at 06:32 PM.
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Old Mar 10, 2013 | 07:21 PM
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I want to see some TA setups...
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 12:54 AM
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Easy for you t/a guys, just take 4 inch tubes and merge them, them run them to the base of the lid.

Take rivets or Christmas tree connectors and some thin tin or aluminum and wrap the edges on the fog light cut outs using the rivets or Christmas tree connectors to secure the metal to the bumper, and use a silicon connector to attach the 4inch tube to the metal you just attached to the bumper.

I know without pictures that just sounds like mumbo jumbo but I think you know what I'm saying.

make sure to paint the metal black so its not easily seen from the front. I would use the black Christmas tree connectors if it was me.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by z-camaro
Blackwing.
this or the SLP lid. i didn't have fitment issues with my SLP lid.
if you do go with your custom intake post up pics when it is done but i'll warn you to stay away from puddles depending how close the filter is to the ground or you'll be sucking water in the engine and then you'll be replacing an engine if your unlucky
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 02:05 AM
  #45  
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Been thinking about something like this with either the corvette setup or my own put together tube and k&n flatter oval filter to lay on top of radiator and cross brace behind the vents in my ws6 hood. I wouldn't think the heat soak would be that much worse if any and I would have increased air flow and better trajectory and maybe even colder IATs when not idling. This way I don't have to worry about my FTP lid hitting hood or cracking over time and I will have cleaner filter from not using air box that's open on the bottom. If you happen to drive in the rain, just make block off plates that can velcro or screw in on the back side of the hood to prevent water from entering filter.

Originally Posted by My6speedZ
I know a guy that ran a metal 4 inch tube out the inlet in the catfish mouth and gained a tenth. Would have gained two if it wouldn't have been so hot

Plenty of guys do this once the remove the front crash foam. Ever Google the custom big mouth set-up (Madman's is worth 3mph) or cold air intakes? The problem is the bends, tube size, and crappy filters you have to run if you tired to do this with everything in place.

People have even used corvette intakes and it LAID on the radiator. Heatsoak IMO is vastly over played (read the BBK arguments). Airflow trajectories and cross section are the keys. Bends slow flow and the smallest cross section is the limiting factor, weather its the air filter inlet or the TB itself.

Last edited by 3YLSYKR; Mar 11, 2013 at 02:10 AM.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 03:50 AM
  #46  
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Im keeping fogs though:/ i know, i know.. Im making it difficult. Lol I just like the way they look.

So... This is where the front license plate cover with mesh like the fi guys use came in. Im just not sure how i want to seal it then come i.to my single 4" into the tb.

*phone and didn't spell check
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 05:25 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by lemons12
Im keeping fogs though:/ i know, i know.. Im making it difficult. Lol I just like the way they look.

So... This is where the front license plate cover with mesh like the fi guys use came in. Im just not sure how i want to seal it then come i.to my single 4" into the tb.

*phone and didn't spell check
I was thinking something like that, sort of like the one I've seen on a few corvettes, where they cut out that little opening that had corvette embossed on in. Make a mesh cover and just stick a velocity stack in there and a tube:




or fab a duct like this guy did:




If it is sealed well you will have good pressure as well.


EDIT: I'm pretty sure this is kind of what your talking about here lemons:

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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 05:30 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by 3YLSYKR
Been thinking about something like this with either the corvette setup or my own put together tube and k&n flatter oval filter to lay on top of radiator and cross brace behind the vents in my ws6 hood. I wouldn't think the heat soak would be that much worse if any and I would have increased air flow and better trajectory and maybe even colder IATs when not idling. This way I don't have to worry about my FTP lid hitting hood or cracking over time and I will have cleaner filter from not using air box that's open on the bottom. If you happen to drive in the rain, just make block off plates that can velcro or screw in on the back side of the hood to prevent water from entering filter.
I have been thinking about doing something like this for that very reason. My FTP lid has some marks on it I have to keep touching up because it scratches when the hood is down and it looks nasty when the hood is up. Plus I am only running a FTRA right now and I feel like I could improve on it if I took the time to do it right.

Most of the pre sold systems come with removable lower sections or block offs for people that drive in the rain, although I don't have to worry about that really.

Although I did get caught out once, I was chatting with my buddy and I heard a thunder clamp and I was like HOLY SH-- I gotta go... haha just picture me running to my car like a mad man to try hurry and get home before the bottom fell out.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 05:40 AM
  #49  
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On comp now..



Correct, identical to that. ^

I think the 4" tube coming down would be decent.. But if I could find a good, non-ghetto, way of sealing it to the section I cut out, that would be ideal.

But come to think of it, none of the other ram airs are sealed at the bottom... They are just open to the air like the velocity stack would be.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 05:42 AM
  #50  
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My tough part right now is sealing with a square type design and making it go into a circular 4" tube.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by lemons12
My tough part right now is sealing with a square type design and making it go into a circular 4" tube.
If you wanted to try and seal it, I would go with a duct to the bottom of a lid, if your cutting and getting rid of the lid then a simple sheet metal transition wouldn't be hard to figure out.

I'm responding to your PM now.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 02:15 PM
  #52  
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I would like to know what type of material was used for the screen, and how it was attached to the back. Also, what was used to cut out the center and how much spacing around the edges is there left?

Originally Posted by lemons12
On comp now..



Correct, identical to that. ^

I think the 4" tube coming down would be decent.. But if I could find a good, non-ghetto, way of sealing it to the section I cut out, that would be ideal.

But come to think of it, none of the other ram airs are sealed at the bottom... They are just open to the air like the velocity stack would be.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 02:31 PM
  #53  
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Trans am guys have it easy. All you need to do is fill in the area in the nostrils and get some foam to seal the hood to the lower air box. Ws6 air box is even higher and would probably be better.

Thats what I did, they used to have the BGRA kit which is what I copied. Camaro guys are better off just going with the SSRA or alternatively mount it lt1 style with a ssra style scoop under the filter for the same effect.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 02:45 PM
  #54  
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I think it's a cool idea to cut out the front but with some foam on back side of nostrils under hood to seal off heat from entering air box like Tainted said should be just as good. I've thought about building a piece inside the hood behind the nostrils that aim the air better to the box and makes it smoother transition but not sure if it would really be a benefit.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 05:23 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by My6speedZ
I know a guy that ran a metal 4 inch tube out the inlet in the catfish mouth and gained a tenth. Would have gained two if it wouldn't have been so hot

Plenty of guys do this once the remove the front crash foam. Ever Google the custom big mouth set-up (Madman's is worth 3mph) or cold air intakes? The problem is the bends, tube size, and crappy filters you have to run if you tired to do this with everything in place.

People have even used corvette intakes and it LAID on the radiator. Heatsoak IMO is vastly over played (read the BBK arguments). Airflow trajectories and cross section are the keys. Bends slow flow and the smallest cross section is the limiting factor, weather its the air filter inlet or the TB itself.
Is this the guy you're referring too that gained a tenth?

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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 07:28 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by My6speedZ
I know a guy that ran a metal 4 inch tube out the inlet in the catfish mouth and gained a tenth. Would have gained two if it wouldn't have been so hot

Plenty of guys do this once the remove the front crash foam. Ever Google the custom big mouth set-up (Madman's is worth 3mph) or cold air intakes? The problem is the bends, tube size, and crappy filters you have to run if you tired to do this with everything in place.

People have even used corvette intakes and it LAID on the radiator. Heatsoak IMO is vastly over played (read the BBK arguments). Airflow trajectories and cross section are the keys. Bends slow flow and the smallest cross section is the limiting factor, weather its the air filter inlet or the TB itself.

I had some tubing drop straight out in front of the radiator down low in theory to catch the air coming from below, ended up having IATs too hot to tune with it on there, so i rerouted to where an after market lt1 cai would go with much better results. guess i did it wrong.

Now all you people have me thinking about this again.

Can anyone tell me if you can flow more air faster through different shaped tubing? What would make more power 4" square tubing or 4" round tubing? Or maybe oval shaped tubing with the same volume?

Last edited by Snkebait95; Mar 11, 2013 at 07:39 PM.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 07:46 PM
  #57  
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Round or oval equivalent is best.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 09:27 PM
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It has to go perfectly round at some point for the throttle body.

I would assume it wouldnt matter in that case.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 09:43 PM
  #59  
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Here is a cool pic and some good info on tubing size.
Attached Thumbnails Customizing CAI Fbody-1000mtaengine.jpg   Customizing CAI Fbody-oval-tubes-chart.jpg  
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Martin@Tick
Is this the guy you're referring too that gained a tenth?

No Martin I was talking about one of the cars I was looking at @ GRC. I was picking up some crap I ordered and was checking it out. It was funny to me when I saw it because I was like hey..... that must be how all the cool kids do it (or atleast the fast ones ). I asked him if he thought that worked better than a lid set-up, he said they gained a tenth from it. I started to text you a picture and tell you it was a bad turbo car I saw haha, since everyone always looked funny at me when they would ask how much power that crazy wheelie pulling turbo car made and I would tell them it was a nitrous car

That's not a turbo in the bumper???? Its "gotta be"

He started going on about how he though the reason was the air doesn't have to change direction as sharply (compared to when its brought from the bottom like a FTRA for instance) to make it to the TB. He says they plan to build some kind of dual inlet that matched the bumper so I pointed him to the Big Gulp thread.

Last edited by My6speedZ; Mar 11, 2013 at 10:16 PM.
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